Toffee Coffee Pudding

In the realm of creams and custards, there are a few distinctions.  Custard is a cream and egg based mixture baked in a water bath to ensure slow and careful cooking.  Pot de crème is traditionally baked in porcelain cups and is usually a little looser in texture.  Pudding is cooked on the stovetop and contains fewer eggs and a measure of cornstarch and/or flour as a thickening agent.

Toffee sauce is brown sugar and butter heated just to the point where the sugar is fully dissolved.  And since brown sugar contains a hint of molasses, it has a distinct flavor.  Toffee differs from caramel in that caramel is made with white sugar and is cooked until it reaches a rich dark amber stage.  Cream is usually added to turn it into a sauce.  They each have a different viscosity, sweetness and richness.

This is an easy pudding that combines the deliciousness of toffee with the creamy makings of a coffee flavored pudding.  It’s super simple and a wonderful union of ingredients for anyone who enjoys any one of these elements.  You can make it ahead and chill until ready to serve. Then when you’re ready for a treat, just add a dollop of freshly whipped cream and sit back and savor, spoonful by spoonful.

Bench notes:

- Use your favorite dark roast coffee beans for the very best flavor. 

- Leave the coffee beans whole.  If ground or crushed, they tend to absorb too much of the milk. 

- These custards will keep in your refrigerator for a day or two.  

- The cookie used as a garnish in the photos is Brown Butter Walnut Shortbread.

- For the simple and sublime, try the purely luscious Vanilla Pudding.

Toffee Coffee Pudding

4 half-cup servings

1 1/2 oz (3 tablespoons) unsalted butter                                                                       

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (2 3/4 oz) dark brown sugar, packed                                 

1/4 cup (2 oz) heavy cream                                                                                   

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice                                                 

pinch salt, to taste              

2 cups (16 oz) whole milk                                                                         

1/2 cup (1 1/2 oz) whole coffee beans                           

2 large egg yolks                                                    

2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch               

1/4 cup (2 oz) Kahlua                                                                     

1 teaspoon vanilla                          

pinch salt, to taste

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz) heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons (6 grams) sugar

1/8 teaspoon vanilla

For the toffee, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium low heat.  Add the brown sugar and whisk until fully combined with the butter.  Bring it to a slow boil, whisking constantly.  Whisk in 1/4 cup heavy cream.  Continue to whisk over low heat until there are no lumps of sugar and the mixture is a smooth sauce.  Remove from heat and add the lemon juice and salt, to taste.  Set aside.

For the pudding, place the milk and coffee beans in a saucepan and bring to a slow simmer.  Turn off the heat and steep for 1/2 hour, then strain and discard the coffee beans.  Return the milk to the heat and bring to a slow simmer.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks together.  Add cornstarch and whisk until thickened and smooth.  Slowly pour about a third of the warm milk mixture into the eggs, whisking thoroughly to combine.  Add remaining milk and continue whisking.  Add the toffee mixture and combine thoroughly. 

Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and return to medium low heat.  Bring to a very slow boil, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula or flat-bottom wooden spoon.  Once it begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the pudding thickens.  The pudding is ready when it coats the spatula and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track.  It will thicken more as it cools.

Remove from heat and add the Kahlua and vanilla.  Taste and adjust for salt.  Pour into ramekins and set aside to cool.  Place in the refrigerator to chill and set up.

To serve, whisk heavy cream, sugar and vanilla until soft peaks form.   Dollop each custard with whipped cream.

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Tangerine & Pomegranate

This dessert really couldn’t be any easier.  Panna cotta takes very little effort but offers more than a satisfying return.  This is especially true if you’re looking for a delicious dessert that isn't overly rich.  There are no egg yolks, butter or heavy cream involved.  If you love creamy custards and crème brulee, this is their lightweight cousin.

The basic premise to panna cotta is to heat the milk or cream with the sugar to dissolve it thoroughly.  It’s typically not very sweet and most often served in a plain vanilla but can also be flavored in a number of ways. Liquefied gelatin is added to set it and then it’s chilled.  It can be served plain or with fruit or a sauce.

This panna cotta is made primarily with plain yogurt for a slight tang.  The same method is used for the base and then the yogurt and flavoring are whisked in at the end.  Super easy and care free. 

For color and an extra element of tartness, I’ve garnished this dessert with tangerine segments and pomegranate seeds.  It makes a colorful and festive presentation on the table as the rain clouds roll in.

Bench notes:

- Substitute 1/2 vanilla bean for a richer flavor.  Split, seed and add to milk as it simmers.  Steep for about 20 minutes then remove the pod.

- To bloom gelatin, always sprinkle it slowly into cold water rather then pouring cold water directly on the powder, which makes it clump.  I use a small pyrex cup for this.

- I used Greek yogurt but any plain variety will do.

- Adjust the sugar, lemon juice, vanilla and salt to your own taste.  I kept the sugar on the low end because the fruit is moistened with a simple syrup.

- Salt is very important for enhancing the flavor of desserts made with dairy products.  We’re not looking for a salty taste, just a brightened and heightened flavor.  Keep adding a few grains at a time until the flavor pops.  You’ll know when you get there.

- The gelatin in this panna cotta is kept at a minimum, just enough to give it a little body but not enough to interfere with the texture of the yogurt.

- Some people liquefy gelatin in a microwave but I find it's just too easy to overheat and ruin it.  It can't be boiled or it loses its thickening properties.

- If you find yourself in the mood for a sublime custard, try Vanilla Pudding.

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Tangerine & Pomegranate

based on an idea from Williams-Sonoma

Makes 6 servings

1 1/2 tablespoons cold water                                          

1 teaspoon powdered gelatin

1 cup (8 oz) milk                                         

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (2 3/4 oz) sugar

pinch salt                                                                                         

2 cups (16 oz) plain yogurt

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

1/3 cup (2.6 oz) water

1/3 cup (66 grams) sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 large (about 1 1/4 lbs) tangerines or 2 large oranges

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds

For the panna cotta, place the cold water in a small heatproof dish.  Bloom the gelatin by sprinkling it slowly over the cold water.  Do not stir.  Let it sit for 5 minutes until the gelatin fully absorbs the water.

Place the milk, sugar and a pinch of salt in a saucepan.  Bring it to a slow simmer and heat until the sugar is fully dissolved.  Take off the heat.  Liquefy the gelatin by placing the bottom of the dish in a pan with about an inch of low-simmering water.  The gelatin will melt in a minute or so.  Add the liquefied gelatin to the milk mixture and blend thoroughly. Whisk in the yogurt, lemon juice and vanilla.  Taste and adjust for salt.  Pour into six ramekins or cups and chill until set, about 2 hours.

For the fruit, place 1/3 cup water and 1/3 cup sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil until the sugar is fully dissolved.   Remove from the heat and whisk in the lemon juice.

Using a very sharp knife, slice off both ends of the tangerines or oranges.  Then slice off the peel and white pith, following the contour of the fruit to maintain its shape.  Cut on either side of each segment to extract the fruit.  Do this over a bowl to catch the juices.  When ready to serve, combine the tangerine or orange segments and pomegranate seeds with some or all of the sugar lemon syrup.  Top each panna cotta with spoonfuls of fruit.

Coffee Caramel Frozen Mousse with Chocolate Crunch

Placing a spoonful of mousse on your palate is one of the most ethereal experiences on earth.  Light and foamy, creamy without being too rich or too sweet, it's one of my favorite desserts any time of the year.

Don't let the elegance and the French throw you off.  Mousse is incredibly easy to prepare.  All you need is a few minutes and your favorite ingredients and you're off and running.

Since coffee, caramel and chocolate are among my cherished tools, this mousse makes me swoon.  It's simply egg whites whipped with brown sugar to deliver some caramel notes and whipped cream folded together with instant espresso powder and Kahlua.  For some texture, I melted chocolate and mixed in Rice Krispies.  Easy peasy.

This is a dessert for those moments when you find yourself desiring luxury without a lot of guilt attached.  It's simple and sure to send you straight to heaven.

Bench notes:
- You will get more loft if your egg whites are at room temperature.  To start, whip the whites on medium speed to a foamy soft peak to unfold and stretch out the proteins before adding the sugar.   Increase the speed and drizzle in the sugar a few sprinkles at a time to ensure they are stabilizing the foam.  Beat the meringue to a stiff peak, which means it should stand up when lifted without falling over.
- Fat is the enemy of egg whites, so beat them first to ensure there is no fat remaining on the whisk.  If there is even a speck of fat, egg whites will not whip.
- Heavy cream should be beaten when cold.  Whip the cream just until soft peaks form.  The cream should have a soft lilt that is droopy.  If you go too far, it will become grainy.  Folding whipped cream also stiffens it more.
- I used 54% semisweet chocolate.  You can also use 72% bittersweet or 2 oz of each.
- Replace the Rice Krispies with toasted chopped almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts.
- As always, exercise caution when using raw egg whites.  They should be not served to small children, pregnant women or individuals who are at risk due to compromised immune systems.
- For more mousse pleasure, try the exquisite Pierre Herme's Chocolate Mousse and Lemon Mousse Tartlets.



Coffee Caramel Frozen Mousse with Chocolate Crunch
Makes about 6 servings

4 oz semisweet (54%) chocolate
1/2 oz (1 tablespoon) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (1/2 oz) Rice Krispies

1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
1 tablespoon Kahlua
3 large egg whites (3 oz) @ room temperature
1/3 cup (2 1/2 oz) dark brown sugar, packed
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup (8 oz) heavy cream, chilled
1 1/2 tablespoons (20 g) granulated sugar

Line baking sheet with a silpat or a piece of parchment.  Finely chop the chocolate and place in a heatproof bowl with the butter.  Set the bowl over a pan with an inch or two of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn't touching the water.  Stir to combine until melted.  Remove from heat and stir in the Rice Krispies.  Pour onto the lined baking sheet and spread out to about a 6" x 5" rectangle.  Chill about 1/2 hour to firm up.  When the chocolate is set, cut it into small bite-sized pieces.  Set aside about a third of the chopped chocolate for garnish.  Keep chilled until ready to use.

Combine the espresso powder and the Kahlua and set aside.

Whip the egg whites until they are opaque and hold soft peaks.  Increase to high speed and add the the brown sugar a little bit at a time.  Add the vanilla and beat until the meringue holds stiff glossy peaks.

Whip the chilled cream with granulated sugar just until it holds soft peaks.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold about 1/2 cup of whipped cream into the meringue.  Fold in the Kahlua/espresso.   Scrape the remaining cream on top and fold everything together until there are just a few streaks left.  Fold the chopped chocolate into the mousse until there are no streaks.

Pour the mousse into an airtight container.  Smooth the top until it's level and press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface.  Cover and place in your freezer for 4 - 6 hours or overnight.

To serve, garnish with remaining chopped chocolate and serve immediately.

Vanilla Pudding

With the Oscars set to air this Sunday, movie fanatics are gearing up for this year's tribute to the films and the stars that make so many intriguing stories come alive.  Movies are such a great escape that we willingly give a few moments of our undivided attention to immerse ourselves in another world.  They teach, they entertain, they move.  I admire the craft of writing, acting and direction and all that goes into building the mood and the tone of a film: location, set decoration, lighting, costume, cinematography, editing and sound.  Every bit a delicate balance.

In great contrast to the drama and elaboration of the silver screen, this Vanilla Pudding is a very unassuming dessert.  That is not to understate its elegance and beauty.  It has a quiet subtlety and simplicity that impresses on the first sumptuous taste.

Every now and then I like to get back to basics.  There aren't a lot of ingredients or embellishments in this pudding: fresh milk, sugar, cornstarch, salt, eggs, a little butter and a good vanilla, all in their own delicate balance.  The preparation takes about 15 minutes or so.   Then the puddings cool to a creamy consistency and you're in for a sublime dessert.

So let's celebrate the movies, enjoy our popcorn and, for dessert, grab a spoon.  For all its deliciously rustic and spare quality, this, too, is worthy of the spotlight.

Bench notes:
- Don't skimp on the salt.  It's necessary to enhance the flavor of the milk.
- For a richer hit of vanilla, use 1/2 vanilla bean instead of the vanilla extract.  To maximize the vanilla bean flavor, split the pod and work the seeds into the sugar with your fingers rather than simply adding them directly to the milk.  This helps ensure they get evenly distributed.  Place the vanilla sugar along with the vanilla pod in the saucepan with the milk.  Once the pudding is cooked, remove the pod before adding the butter and vanilla.
- I like to keep the heat on my gas stove at medium low for more control.  If the pudding is cooking too fast, just lift the pan off the heat to settle it down and be sure to lower the heat.
- When stirring the pudding over the heat, switch to a heatproof rubber spatula or flat-bottom wooden spoon.  As you're stirring, make sure you're covering the entire bottom of the pan to keep a thick coating from forming and scorching.  A whisk doesn't scrape the bottom of the pan in broad sweeps well enough to keep the mixture moving.  A whisk also creates a lot of air bubbles, which can make it difficult to see the thickening process.
- This pudding doesn't form a thick film on top but if you want to avoid any skin from forming, keep stirring it as it cools to break up the protein or press a piece of plastic onto the surface.
- Always use unsalted butter for pastry and desserts unless otherwise noted.  I'll start noting "unsalted" in my posts.
- The candied citrus in the photos is from the recipe for Olive Oil Cake with Candied Orange (as explained in the first bench note at the link).  The cookies are Plain Jane Cookies from my ecookbook, The Global Pastry Table, pasties & desserts with international style for the modern kitchen.



Vanilla Pudding
Makes 4 half-cup servings

2 cups (16 oz) whole milk
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (2 3/4 oz) sugar
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large egg yolks
1 oz (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter @ room temperature, cut into 1/4" pieces
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whisk together the cold milk, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a saucepan and set over medium low heat.  Switch to a heatproof rubber spatula or flat-bottom wooden spoon and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring constantly.  When a light foam begins to form around the edges, cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until thickened.  Take off the heat.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks to break them up and slowly add about 1/4 cup of the hot milk mixture, whisking constantly until thoroughly combined.  Add the remaining milk and blend.  Pour back into the saucepan and return to medium low heat.  Using the heatproof rubber spatula or flat-bottom wooden spoon and stirring constantly, bring to a very slow boil and cook for 2 - 3 minutes until the mixture is thickened.  The pudding is ready when it coats the back of the spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track.  It will thicken more as it cools.

Remove from the heat and add the pieces of butter and vanilla.  Stir until smooth.  Pour into four ramekins or a bowl to cool.  Serve warm or refrigerate for about 2 hours to chill.

Chai Rice Pudding

It seems like a week that calls out for the quiet satisfaction of comfort food.  Extreme weather conditions are delivering a bitter cold in so many parts of the country.  This is a dessert designed to take the edge off a blizzard.  

If you find yourself snowed in, you probably have rice on hand since it's a staple in cupboards throughout the world and an integral part of meals in just about every culture.  Rice pudding has the benefit of being relatively inexpensive as desserts go and it delivers a soothing pleasure for times like these.

My rice pudding errs on the side of being cushy and creamy.  Pre-cooking the rice for a few minutes shortens the simmering for quicker preparation.  I choose long grain rice, which is less starchy than short grain.  And for a low simmer, I use milk because it reduces more evenly than cream, which can leave the pudding with a fatty and dense chewiness.  You can always add cream at the end of the cooking if you want more richness.

I love the aromatic spices found in a steaming hot cup of Indian masala chai, so I add them to this mixture for more flavor and warmth.  And since chai is personal to the maker, you can add or subtract spices to your own taste.

Bundle up and share a hearty bowl of warm rice pudding.  Stay safe out there.



Bench notes:
- Traditionally, chai is made from Assam tea but any good black tea will do.  Tea bags are definitely convenient but there is a difference in quality with loose leaf tea, which tends to have a brighter taste.  Tea bags contain much of the fannings, the smallest pieces of broken tea with essential oils that are dimished.
- If you don't have a vanilla bean, add about 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract at the end when you've taken it off the heat.
- Rice pudding doesn't require much sugar in order to taste sweet but add or subtract to your own taste.
- Cook the rice pudding at a very low simmer to keep it from boiling. Your goal is to tenderize the rice and reduce the milk.  Stir gently to prevent the grains from breaking.
- The pudding will look soupy but resist the urge to cook it longer or it may become too gloppy and thick.
- Salt is very important in dairy desserts.  If the pudding has a flat taste, keep adding a few more grains of salt until the flavor pops.
- Rice pudding tightens a lot as it cools, especially if refrigerated.  Add a splash of warm milk or cream to loosen it up.
- For added richness and a more custardy texture, once the pudding is finished cooking, place about a cup of it in a bowl and thoroughly whisk in 2 egg yolks.  Pour this back into the pan and cook very gently on low heat, stirring constantly to prevent scrambling, for 2 additional minutes.



Chai Rice Pudding
Makes 6 servings

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz) long grain rice
1 cup + 2 tablespoons (9 oz) water
4 cups (1 quart) milk
2 teaspoons or 2 bags black tea
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (2 3/4 oz) sugar, to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 vanilla bean, split and seeded
4 cardamom pods
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
4 whole peppercorns
1/2 star anise
2 quarter-sized slices fresh ginger
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
zest of 1/2 orange

Place the rice and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Lower heat to a bare simmer, cover the pan and cook the rice for 8 minutes.

Warm the milk on medium low heat just until bubbles form around the edges.  Remove from the heat and add the tea.  Steep for 8 - 10 minutes, depending on the quality of your tea.  Strain out the loose tea or remove the tea bags and add the remaining ingredients, stirring to combine.

Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat.  Cook at a very low simmer for 20 - 25 minutes until the rice is tender.  Stir frequently to keep the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan, especially toward the end of the cooking time.  The pudding should be a bit soupy.  It will firm up more as it cools.

Take off the heat and remove the spices.  Taste and adjust for salt, if necessary.  Serve warm.

Vanilla Raspberry Semifreddo

If you love the light airiness of mousse and the creaminess of ice cream, then you’ll love the combination of the two, the Italian semifreddo.  It’s one of those desserts that doesn't require much effort to prepare and makes a nice presentation for a crowd. 

We appear to be deep into a summer heat wave across much of the nation and reaching out in search of something cold to refresh is the order of the day.  Ice cream fills the bill beautifully but if you don’t have an ice cream maker, an Italian semifreddo scented with vanilla and rippled with crushed and sugared raspberries is a great way to cool down.

The base for this semifreddo is cream cheese with whipped egg whites and whipped cream folded in for more volume.  Vanilla is the base flavor and fresh raspberries give it a bright edge of tartness and color.

If you’ve been reading my blog for any length of time, you know I usually favor pastries and desserts that have both flavor and simplicity in equal measure.   A bit of challenge is always important but I think for the most part, people tend to like unfussy preparations and simple presentations and I usually find myself striving to find this balance.   I think this semifreddo is a perfect example.

Bench notes:

-When lining the loaf pan, place a strip of parchment on top of the plastic to create a smoother surface. If you don’t have parchment, once you've unmolded it, you can use a warm knife or metal spatula to smooth the creases.

- The more you handle heavy cream after it’s been whipped, the stiffer it becomes.  So whip the cream just until soft peaks form.  This means the cream should have a soft lilt that is droopy.  If you go too far, the cream will be grainy and worsen as you fold it into the other ingredients.  

- The meringue should be beaten to a stiff peak, which means it should stand up firmly without falling over.

- The 1/4 cup sugar used with the raspberries in the semifreddo seems sweet but it helps to prevent the fruit from becoming too icy when frozen.

- Rather than layering the raspberries, swirl them in for a different effect.

- Strain out the raspberry seeds if you prefer.

- Another very easy and delicious dessert is Pistachio Semifreddo.

- As always, exercise caution when using raw egg whites.  They should not be served to small children, pregnant women or individuals who are at risk due to compromised immune systems.

Vanilla Raspberry Semifreddo

Makes 6 – 8 servings

12 oz fresh raspberries, divided                                   

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar

4 oz cream cheese @ room temperature

2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 large egg whites (3 oz) @ room temperature

pinch salt

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar

1 cup (8 oz) cold heavy cream

2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Line an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving a 4” long overhang on each side.  You can also place a strip of parchment paper on top of the plastic to help form a smoother finish.

Place two-thirds of the raspberries (9 oz) in a bowl with 1/4 cup of sugar and mash coarsely with a fork.  Set aside. 

Beat the cream cheese with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla until smooth.  Set aside.

Whip the egg whites with a small pinch of salt until they are opaque and hold soft peaks.  Slowly add 1/4 cup sugar a little bit at a time, increasing speed to high.  Beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.  Set aside.

Whip the chilled cream with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla just until it holds soft peaks.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the whipped cream.  Then fold this into the cream cheese mixture until smooth.  Pour a third into the prepared loaf pan, then add a layer of half the raspberries.  Repeat the process and end with the cream mixture.  Smooth and level out the surface.  Cover the top with the parchment (if using) and overhanging plastic wrap and place in your freezer until firm, about 6 – 8 hours or overnight.

To serve, combine the remaining 3 oz raspberries with sugar, to taste.  Run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the loaf pan to loosen. Unwrap the plastic and parchment (if using) from around the top of the pan. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert.  Pull off the pan and carefully peel off the wrapping.  Cut into slices and serve immediately with the extra raspberries.

Yogurt Cake with Strawberries & Zabaglione

If you've ever had a slice of authentic Tiramisu, you know quite well the dreamy deliciousness of Italian zabaglione. It's a dessert cream made with sweet Marsala, sugar and egg yolks and it's sublime. Layered with a light cake that has been imbibed with the buzz of coffee or espresso, it transforms into a heavenly dessert. So heavenly in fact, it's been a widely beloved dessert in America for years.

Zabaglione, or sabayon as it's known in France, is made by gently whisking the ingredients over a water bath until it thickens into a foamy light custard. Once it's cooled, it's folded with whipped cream to add another layer of lusciousness. It's pretty easy to prepare, takes just a few minutes and is a perfect complement for the bright juicy acidity of fresh strawberries. And it's a surprisingly light dessert cream given the ingredients.

As we move rapidly toward the fall season, we are seeing less and less of all the fruit that makes pastry so beautiful in the spring and summer. But if you happen to have the company of some delicious strawberries to revere, consider this lofty pairing. Add a slice of Yogurt Cake and it's a perfect comfort to welcome the season ahead.

Bench notes:

- I like olive oil in this cake but canola can certainly be substituted.

- Letting cake cool for 10 minutes after removing from the oven and before depanning ensures that it's cool enough not to be too fragile but still warm enough to release from the pan with relative ease.

- Marsala is a wine produced in Marsala, Sicily. Use a sweet Marsala for desserts rather than dry Marsala, which is used in savory dishes such as Chicken Marsala.

- For lighter fare, skip the cake. The fruit and the zabaglione are a feast.

Yogurt Cake with Strawberries & Zabaglione

Serves 8

1 1/2 C flour

2 t baking powder

1/4 t salt

1/2 C olive oil

1 C sugar

3 eggs

zest of 1 large lemon

3/4 C plain yogurt

1/2 t vanilla

2 pints fresh strawberries

4 egg yolks

1/4 C sugar

1/2 C sweet Marsala

1/2 C heavy cream

For the cake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9" x 2 1/2" cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt.

Whisk together the olive oil, sugar, eggs, lemon zest, yogurt and vanilla. Stir in the dry ingredients until thoroughly combined. Pour into prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes or until a tester comes out clean.

Cool cake for 10 minutes. Invert it and gently peel off the parchment. Revert it again and place right side up on a wire rack to cool completely.

When ready to serve, hull and slice the strawberries and set aside.

For the zabaglione, place the egg yolks, sugar and Marsala in a heatproof bowl and set over a water bath of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn't touch the water. Whisk constantly, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl, and cook about 5 - 7 minutes until the mixture is thickened, expanded in volume, opaque and slightly foamy. Remove from heat and continue whisking for another minute to blend thoroughly. Set aside to cool.

Whip heavy cream to soft peak and fold into the cooled zabaglione. Place a slice of cake on a plate, distribute the sliced strawberries and garnish with a dollop of zabaglione. Serve immediately.

Chocolate Pudding

Chocolate pudding is most likely something you order off a retro menu or purchase in small cups at the market. It's usually an impulse buy that reminds us of a childhood memory when maybe it was produced from a box. But making chocolate pudding from scratch isn't difficult or overly time consuming, so you just might want to give it a try for the pleasure and satisfaction of a silky chocolate dessert produced in your own kitchen.

Pudding is the kind of dessert that seems like the answer to all our problems. It's definitely a comfort food to rescue you from the doldrums. This recipe isn't too heavy or too rich, just enough to provide a nice reminder of the gratifying luxury of good pudding to enjoy in the comfort of your own table.

Bench notes:

- Use your favorite, very delicious chocolate. I use only 2 oz of chocolate to avoid graininess but you can add more if you want more of a depth charge. It will have a slightly thicker texture.

- I used bittersweet (60-40) chocolate. For a sweeter taste, use semi-sweet.

- I like the way the caramel notes of brown sugar and a back note of coffee enhance chocolate. Use all granulated sugar and omit the coffee beans if you prefer.

- Keep the pudding on a low boil for about 4 - 5 minutes, stirring constantly, to be sure to cook out the flour and cornstarch.

- After chilling, give the pudding a quick whisk to loosen up and smooth out the texture.

- For the whipping cream garnish, use vanilla extract or flavor with a splash of your favorite rum, brandy, kirsch, amaretto or Kahlua. Or add a pinch of cinnamon.

Chocolate Pudding

Makes 4 - 6 servings

2 C milk

2 T coffee beans

1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed

2 oz bittersweet chocolate

2 oz (4 T) butter @ room temperature

4 egg yolks

3 T granulated sugar

1 T + 1 1/2 t flour

1 T + 1 1/2 t cornstarch

1 1/2 t vanilla

1/8 t salt, to taste

3/4 C heavy cream

1 T granulated sugar

1 t vanilla or rum, brandy or favorite liqueur

Place the milk, coffee beans and brown sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a slow simmer over medium low heat until sugar is dissolved. Take off heat, cover and steep while you assemble and prepare the other ingredients.

Finely chop the chocolate and place in a medium bowl. Cut the butter into very small pieces and add to the chopped chocolate. Set aside.

Whisk together the egg yolks and granulated sugar until combined. Add the flour and cornstarch and whisk until thoroughly blended. The mixture will be thickened and lemon-colored.

Re-warm the milk and bring to a simmer. Strain half of it into the egg yolks, whisking quickly and thoroughly. Strain the remaining milk into the bowl and whisk. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it comes to a slow boil and begins to thicken. This will take about 1 - 2 minutes. Continue stirring and cooking for another couple of minutes until smooth and thick. Pour into the bowl with chopped chocolate and butter and let it sit for a minute or two. Then slowly whisk to incorporate everything. Add the vanilla and blend. Add salt, to taste. Pour through a strainer into a clean container. Press a piece of plastic into the surface and refrigerate.

To serve, whip the heavy cream with sugar and flavoring of choice until it holds a medium soft peak. Whisk the pudding to loosen. Dish into bowls and dollop with whipped cream.

Lemon Ginger Semifreddo

Back in the wonderful days of pastry school – that time in my life when I fell in love with the creativity of working with so many incredible ingredients and techniques - our curriculum was divided into types of pastry and dessert, grouped by method. Each lecture began with an overview of the history and classical technique for categories of tart doughs, foam cakes, butter cakes, tortes, laminated doughs, creams and custards, breads and crackers, and on and on. We learned about the how and why of what makes these techniques work and the balance of ingredients necessary to make delicious pastry. I was spellbound.

When we got to ice cream and all forms of glace, I was especially intrigued because I'd never made ice cream or sorbet before and had no idea about its composition. Since then, I've become completely fascinated by the explosion of home ice cream production and the endless opportunity to combine ingredients and textures to

produce really delicious flavors. Along with all the other enchanting things in the pastry universe, it's become one of my favorite things to do. Even the mistakes are fun.

Semifreddo is another one of those surprises. Until pastry school, I really had no idea what it was all about. Essentially, it's an Italian take on frozen dessert and a great way to enjoy ice cream without needing an ice cream maker. It has the lightness and texture of a frozen mousse, which is ethereal.

The Lemon Ginger Semifreddo I'm writing about today is a very good and simple example of how easy and delicious this dessert can be. It starts with a lemon curd. For a nice flavor counterpoint, I steep some fresh ginger in warm cream. The flavored cream is chilled, then softly whipped and folded into the lemon curd along with some meringue to form large billows of heavenly mousse. Place all that in the freezer for a few hours and voila! Lemon Ginger Semifreddo.

Bench notes:

- I like lemon curd on the puckery side. If you want a sweeter version, increase the sugar to 3/4 cup and cut back on the zest to one lemon.

- Lemon curd can be made ahead and refrigerated up to 3 days.
- Ginger slices should be about the size and thickness of a quarter coin.
- If you don’t care for ginger, omit it and serve the Lemon Semifreddo with fresh crushed and sugared berries and/or press toasted sliced almonds on top.
- Another absolute favorite is super delicious Pistachio Semifreddo, which is a simple combination of pistachios, meringue and whipped cream folded together with a splash of almond extract.

Lemon Ginger Semifreddo

Serves 8 - 10

1/2 C fresh lemon juice

1/2 C + 2 T sugar

2 egg yolks

1 egg

zest of 2 lemons

3 oz (6 T) butter

1 C heavy cream

2 slices of fresh ginger, peeled

1 T sugar

2 egg whites
1 T + 1 t sugar

2 T finely chopped crystallized ginger

For the lemon curd, whisk together the sugar, egg yolks and whole egg in a heatproof bowl that will fit over a water bath. Whisk in the lemon juice and zest. Place over a double boiler or bain marie of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn't touching the water. Cook until the curd thickens, stirring constantly.

Pour the curd through a metal strainer into a clean bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces and add to the curd. After a minute or so, stir in the butter to combine thoroughly. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface. Set aside and cool to room temperature.

Place the heavy cream and ginger slices in a saucepan over low heat and bring to a simmer for a couple of minutes. Take off the heat, cover and steep for about a half hour while the lemon curd is cooling. Once the cream has steeped, remove the ginger and pour into a bowl. Place in the freezer for about 15 minutes to chill.

Prepare an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" metal loaf pan by lining with plastic wrap, leaving a generous overhang on all four sides and smoothing it out as much as possible. You can also make a strip of parchment paper with an overhang for the long sides and place on top of the plastic to help form smoother sides.

Beat egg whites until they are opaque and hold soft peaks. Slowly add 1 T + 1 t sugar and beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.

Whip chilled cream with 1 T sugar until it just holds soft peaks.

Pour cooled lemon curd into a larger bowl and stir to loosen. Using a large rubber spatula, gently fold in whipped cream. Then fold in the meringue until there are no obvious streaks of white. Pour into prepared pan and smooth the surface. Fold over the parchment (if using) and plastic wrap on top to cover. Place in the freezer for about 6 - 8 hours or overnight.

To serve, run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the pan to loosen. Unwrap the plastic and parchment (if using) from around the top of the pan. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert. Carefully pull off the remaining wrapping.

Slice with a sharp knife and serve immediately. Garnish with finely chopped crystallized ginger.

Yogurt Mousse with Hibiscus Berry Gelée

The winter’s earth tones of chocolate, caramel and nuts are supremely delicious but every year right about this time I feel the urge for a splash of color. My calendar tells me that the first day of spring is March 20, so there is definitely something in the air. And as the new season approaches, it’s exciting to anticipate the bright palette of fresh strawberries, apricots, cherries, peaches, nectarines, figs and plums. So, in search of that brilliant spectrum, I bought some berries to brighten our table.

I love the lightness of yogurt mousse in combination with a cool gelée. This particular colorful mix incorporates the natural deep red hue of hibiscus flowers, also known as flor de Jamaica, to make a strong sweet tea. Then I just toss in a few raspberries and blackberries to brighten the flavor, add to the texture and deepen the color. In combination with a creamy mousse, it's a good way to transition to the longer and brighter days ahead. Incredibly simple to put together, it delivers a good dose of sunshine as the last days of winter fall away.

Here’s to the rapid approach of a gorgeous and fruitful spring!!

Bench notes:
- The hibiscus tea needs to be pretty sweet to counteract the tartness of the berries.
- When blooming gelatin, sprinkle the gelatin powder slowly into cold water rather than pouring water onto powdered gelatin, which causes the gelatin to form clumps that will not dissolve and will ruin the texture of the final product. Once you’ve added the gelatin to the water, do not stir. The gelatin and water mixture will turn opaque and look sort of like applesauce. When ready to proceed with incorporating it into the recipe, heat gently to liquefy so it can be combined smoothly and thoroughly with the dessert mixture. So it goes like this: gelatin powder sprinkled slowly into cold water becomes gel and then is transformed into liquid and combined with the ingredients, which are then chilled to set up.
- I don't recommend liquefying bloomed gelatin in a microwave because it will have a tendency to boil, which ruins it.
- To avoid splashing or spilling, I use a large glass measuring cup to pour the hibiscus gelée into the glasses.
- When you add the berries to the gelée, nudge them with your fingertip so they’ll submerge.
- Substitute your favorite colorful juice or tea for the hibiscus, such as rooibos tea or pomegranate juice. As always, adjust sugar to taste.



Yogurt Mousse with Hibiscus Berry Gelée
Serves 4 - 6

Yogurt Mousse

2 T cold water
1 1/2 t gelatin
2 C (16 oz) plain yogurt
1/2 C sugar
1 t vanilla
1 t lemon juice, to taste
1 C heavy cream

Hibiscus Gelée

3 T hibiscus tea leaves
2 C boiling water
1/4 C sugar
2 T honey
1/2 t lemon juice
1 3” strip of orange peel
2 T cold water
1 1/2 t gelatin

6 oz package of raspberries or blackberries or a mixture of the two

For the Yogurt Mousse, bloom the gelatin by sprinkling it into a small cup containing 2 tablespoons of cold water. Do not stir. Let it sit for 5 minutes until the water fully absorbs the powder.

Whisk together the yogurt and sugar. Add the vanilla and lemon juice and combine thoroughly.
Whip the heavy cream just to a very soft peak.
Liquefy the gelatin by placing the bottom of the cup in a small saucepan with about an inch of simmering water.
Add the liquefied gelatin to the yogurt mixture and blend thoroughly.
Fold in the whipped cream.
Pour into 4 – 6 serving glasses or cups.
Chill for about 2 hours.

When the Yogurt Mousse has set up, begin the preparation of the Hibiscus Gelée.

Place the hibiscus tea leaves in a heatproof bowl. Pour the boiling water over the tea. Add the sugar, honey, lemon juice and orange peel and steep for 20 minutes. Strain into a clean bowl.

Place 2 tablespoons of cold water in a small dish. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water. Let it sit for 5 minutes to bloom. Liquefy the gelatin by placing the bottom of the cup in a small saucepan with about an inch of simmering water. Add the liquefied gelatin to the hibiscus tea and whisk thoroughly. Pour onto the set Yogurt Mousse and distribute the berries in each serving. Refrigerate about 2 - 3 hours or until set.

Lemon Cherry Pudding Cakes

I bet you remember having the old classic Lemon Pudding Cake at some point in your life. It’s a pillow of flavor and texture, the quintessential comfort dessert that was probably presented to you by your mom or grandmother way back when. I decided to resurrect it here with an added bonus of fresh cherries placed at the bottom of each cup.

Part of the fun of this dessert is that it seems like a bit of a mystery to produce. There are more wet ingredients than dry and the inclusion of whipped egg whites lightens the whole mixture into a loose cloud. Although you don’t follow the conventional methods for making either a cake or pudding, as it bakes, the batter somehow transforms and separates into two distinct textures: a nice light cake at the top and a lovely soft pudding at the bottom. Magic!

Even if you don’t have any cherries but find yourself with a few lemons, give this dessert a try anyway. It’s a simple and delicious comfort well worth the effort.

Bench notes:
- I doubled the butter to 2 oz (4 T) and I melted it to make it easier to blend with the other ingredients.
- These are good either warm or at room temperature. They will probably keep for a day or so in the refrigerator but I don’t think the texture of the cake or the pudding will be the same.
- Taste the cherries as they cook to determine how much sugar to add.


Lemon Cherry Pudding Cakes
adapted with some alteration from Food & Wine
Makes 6 servings

12 oz fresh cherries, pitted
1 1/2 T water
1 - 1 1/2 T sugar, to taste

3/4 C sugar, divided
1/3 C flour
1 C milk
5 T fresh lemon juice
1 t finely grated lemon zest
3 eggs, separated
1 oz (2 T) butter, at room temperature (I used 2 oz, melted)
1/4 t salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease six 6-ounce ramekins.

Place the pitted cherries in a saucepan with the water and sugar. Cook over medium low heat for about 10 minutes or until the fruit is softened. Set aside to cool. Distribute them equally among the six ramekins.

Whisk all but 2 tablespoons of the sugar with the flour. In another bowl, whisk together the milk, lemon juice, lemon zest and egg yolks. Whisk in the melted butter until well blended. Combine the lemon mixture with the sugar and flour mixture and whisk until smooth. The mixture will be very thin and may look curdled.

Beat the egg whites with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and the salt until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the lemon mixture one-third at a time. Pour the batter into the prepared ramekins and place them in a small roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven and pour in enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake the pudding cakes for about 25 minutes or until they are puffy, firm to the touch and golden on top. Use tongs to carefully transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Creamy Custard

The ultimate beauty of custard is found in its simplicity – eggs, dairy, sugar, a bit of flavoring and not much else. But how you work with these ingredients makes all the difference in the world. If you’ve tried baking custard and have been less than thrilled with your results, you’ll want to try these techniques and see if you don’t fall in love with the melt-in-your-mouth texture and sublime flavor of these baked custards.

What makes custard such a desirable dessert is its velvety luxuriousness. Because one of the basic ingredients of custard is eggs, the silkiness of baked custard comes from controlling both the temperature of the mixture before it’s baked and during the baking process.

Shuna Lydon is a pastry chef known for her wonderful custards and her engaging personal and work life confessionals at her blog, Eggbeater. And now, lucky for us, she illustrates her method for perfect custard in a series of very short videos she shot with Food52. Shuna delivers a few indispensable procedures that will change your custards forever. You’ll learn why eggs need gentle and delicate prodding and how best to create a terrific finished product. I urge you to watch all of these fun and very informative short clips to see how simple it can be to improve your game.

Perfect Custard, part 1: Maximizing vanilla bean flavor, the ratio of cream to milk and the process of infusion. (1 minute, 50 seconds)
Perfect Custard, part 2: How to achieve great texture starting with a cold mixture and treating the eggs with complete care. (1 minute, 18 seconds)
Perfect Custard, part 3: Portioning with a scale for uniform baking. (1 minute, 6 seconds)
Perfect Custard, part 4: Steam and the proper bain marie technique for the very best baked custard. (1 minute, 16 seconds)
The Big Reveal, part 5: Tasting the final product (1 minute, 35 seconds) and a link to Shuna’s Butterscotch Pot de Crème.

So now that we’ve seen some of the techniques for producing the silkiest custard, it’s time to put it all to the test. This is my recipe for a basic but very delicious Vanilla Custard. It’s also a perfect medium for all kinds of variation. You can flavor it however you wish by infusing the cream with your favorite flavorings. My photos here are of a lime version I made by steeping the warm cream, milk and sugar mixture with lime zest.

I hope these lessons and suggestions contribute to perfect custards in your future!

Bench notes:
- In addition to vanilla custard, branch out and flavor with zest of lime, lemon or orange, whole or ground spices, fresh ginger, coffee beans, tea or your favorite fresh herbs (fresh bay leaf is nice; 1 leaf per cup of liquid). For citrus, I grind the zest with the sugar in a food processor to infuse the sugar with the citrus oils, then add this to the warm cream mixture. Steep as long as it takes to get the right concentration of flavor depending on what and how much you’re steeping.  Taste as you go to get the right strength. Strain before mixing with the egg yolks.
- Use the freshest cream, eggs and flavorings for the best possible results.
- Baking custard in a bain marie or water bath ensures slow and even baking.
- My recipe has the level of cream to milk ratio that I like. Vary according to your own taste and desired level of richness. Same applies to the measurement of sugar.
- I ran out of good professional plastic wrap as I was making this custard so I went with foil. Still got really luscious results. If you use foil, be VERY careful when lifting it up to check on the custards. Make sure you let the steam out in a direction away from you, wear an oven mitt or use tongs. Steam burns really do hurt.
- Sometimes using a large roasting pan for a water bath can feel a little unwieldy. When I’m making a larger recipe, I use two smaller pans and fit 3 - 4 ramekins in each. This makes it a lot easier to remove from the oven without splashing water into your custards and damaging all your careful work.
- Custards are best eaten the same day without refrigeration, although they will keep for a couple of days in the refrigerator as long as there aren't any strong aromas lingering from other food items.



Creamy Custard
Makes 4 servings

1 1/4 C heavy cream
3/4 C whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean or 1 1/4 t vanilla extract
1/4 C sugar (add another 1 T sugar if flavoring with citrus zest, coffee, tea or herbs)
4 egg yolks
pinch of salt, to taste

Slice open vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the sugar. Work the vanilla seeds into the sugar with your fingers so they are evenly distributed. Place the vanilla sugar along with vanilla pod, cream and milk in a saucepan. Bring this mixture to a slow simmer. Take off the heat and infuse for about an hour.

Warm the cream mixture just until it feels warm to the touch. Do not simmer. Remove the vanilla bean pod and whisk egg yolks together. Gradually whisk warm cream into egg yolks and combine thoroughly. Whisk in salt, to taste. (Add the vanilla extract at this point, if using). Let the mixture cool completely in a bowl or container set in an ice water bath.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place four 4 oz ramekins or custard cups in a small roasting pan.

Ladle or pour custard into ramekins or custard cups. If you have a scale, use it to be sure each dish has an equal portion. Pour enough hot water into the roasting pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Tightly wrap foil or plastic wrap over the roasting pan. Carefully set in the center of the oven.

Bake the custards until just set, about 35 – 40 minutes. When you tap a ramekin, the whole surface should jiggle a bit. The edges should not soufflé.

Remove foil or plastic carefully, avoiding the hot escaping steam by pulling the wrap so the steam escapes away from you and your hands. Remove the ramekins from water using an oven mitt or a pair of tongs and cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.