Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream

I’m really hoping you have a bounty of fresh peaches in your area because this is a fabulous dessert. It comes from Daniel Humm, a native of Switzerland who was Executive Chef at Campton Place in San Francisco and is currently at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. He's received many awards and accolades so I decided to try his take on this seasonal dessert. Wow, am I glad I did.

Although this is not a particularly fancy or laborious preparation, the elements taken together feel like a well planned marriage. Fresh peaches are smothered in a light syrup of white wine, honey and a slight sprig of rosemary. Don’t let the addition of this herb scare you away; it’s only steeped for a few minutes and it deepens the flavor beautifully without overpowering or influencing too much. The 40 minutes of roasting really caramelizes the sauce and produces wonderfully soft fleshy fruit. The Mascarpone Ice Cream delivers a lovely and natural creamy counterpoint to the warm glow of the peaches, full of flavor without being too heavy or too rich.

If you find yourself in the company of some pretty peaches anytime soon, this is an indulgence worthy of your time and attention. It’s got a bit of a Mediterranean feel to it, so it's just the sort of dessert to enjoy al fresco as a pure and simple sunny summer luxury.


Bench notes:
- The recipe calls for 7 oz of mascarpone. The container I bought was 8 oz and I wound up using the whole amount.
- The Mascarpone Ice Cream as written was too sweet for my taste so I added 1/4 C buttermilk to the ice cream base. I thought this not only tempered the sweetness but also produced a wonderfully acidic tang that enhanced the mascarpone in the finished ice cream. If you prefer your desserts on the not-too-sweet end of the spectrum, you can do as I did or perhaps consider reducing the sugar in the ice cream to 1/2 C + 2 T. Taste the heated milk and sugar mixture and judge accordingly.
- The ice cream does take quite a bit of salt. Add a small pinch at a time and keep tasting. You'll know when it pops.
- I always chill my ice cream base overnight. This give the flavors a chance to relax and marry and ensures the mixture is very well chilled, which saves on the wear and tear of your ice cream machine.
- I used Viognier wine for the peaches but any good Sauvignon Blanc will do.
- The recipe calls for peeling the peaches. I did not.
- Put the peaches and the syrup in a baking dish that is not too large. The first time I made this in a large dish the syrup was shallow and it evaporated too quickly during the roasting process and burned. My oven does run hot, but I’d advise to check the peaches closely during that last 15 minutes of roasting. Or perhaps lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees.
- I think this dessert is best served when the peaches and the sauce are warm.
- You could definitely get more than four servings out of this if needed.
- The wine sauce for the peaches is really delicious. I’m sure I’ll use it in other applications, not necessarily always for roasting.



Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream
adapted from Daniel Humm in Food & Wine magazine
4 servings

Mascarpone Ice Cream

2 C whole milk
4 egg yolks
3/4 C plus 2 T sugar
1 C mascarpone (7 ounces) [I used an 8 oz container]
1/2 t fresh lemon juice
Pinch of salt
1/4 C buttermilk [my addition; see note above]

Roasted Peaches

2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc
2 T honey
1 C water
1/4 C sugar
1 rosemary sprig
4 large ripe but firm peaches

For the ice cream, combine the milk and 3/4 C sugar in a saucepan. Heat until the sugar is dissolved and the milk is simmering.

Whisk the egg yolks with the 2 T sugar until light yellow. Slowly add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from cooking. When all the milk has been added and combined, pour back into the saucepan and cook over medium low heat until the mixture thickens a bit, coats the back of a spoon and leaves a clean trail when you make a streak with your finger. Do not boil. Take off the heat immediately and pour into a clean container. Whisk in the mascarpone, lemon juice and salt to taste. Add buttermilk, if using. Cool completely. Cover and place in the refrigerator to chill completely.

Pour the chilled custard into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface, cover and freeze until firm.

To prepare the peaches, combine the white wine, honey, water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and slow boil until the mixture is reduced by about half. Add the rosemary sprig and let stand for 10 minutes. Discard the rosemary.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Peel the peaches if desired. Halve and pit them and arrange in a baking dish small enough to just fit the peach halves. Pour the rosemary syrup on top and roast the peaches until tender, about 40 minutes, basting and turning the peaches half way through.

Scoop the Mascarpone Ice Cream into serving bowls and top with the peach halves. Spoon the warm poaching liquid over the fruit and serve right away.

Blue Cheese Walnut Biscuits with Pear Compote and Cream

The few months I spent working alongside a cheesemonger are among my most fond memories in the culinary world. Learning about cheese production and sampling incredible artisanal products from the best American and European regions was a wonderful excursion, working on pairings a complete pleasure. Being in the company of a cheesemonger who had an inordinate passion for quality made it a real journey of the senses. When a new shipment of cheese would arrive, he and I would look at each other with the excitement of little children on Christmas morning, anticipating the heady aromas and anxious to get our hands on beautiful packages exquisitely wrapped with the unique expression of the giver.

This dessert reminds us of the wonderful friendship of blue cheese and pears. I love pears so much that I’m always trying to think of new things to do with them while still preserving their fresh and delicate perfume. This is an easy dessert that presents all the delicious qualities of beautiful pears reclining on a pillow of luxurious cream atop a super tender biscuit flavored with blue cheese.

Although the dessert has three different components, the biscuits come together very quickly in a food processor, the less handling the better. The mixture looks like a pile of crumbs about the size of barley grains and all you need to do is gently coax them together by pressing them into a round. Cut them out and they are baked in about 13 to 15 minutes. If your pears are sufficiently ripe, they are ready in just a very few minutes. Whisk some heavy cream and you’re all the way there.

I use ripe but firm Bartlett pears for their lovely soft texture and Bleu d'Auvergne cheese for its relatively mild but sumptuous blue flavor. Bleu d'Auvergne is an Appelation d'Origine Controlée (controlled designation of origin) cow’s milk cheese from the Auvergne region in south-central France. Its origins trace back to the middle of the 19th century and it’s a cheese that goes particularly well with dessert wines. It's pretty firm but still delectably creamy and I think these two pair very well. The biscuits offer a chewy morsel to support the pears, which are bathed in a delectably light syrup of honey, water and a spritz of lemon. The cream is simply whipped and slathered generously to bridge the textures. Taken together, this becomes a very fun way to explore and savor the pure nature of each.


Bench notes:
- To toast walnuts, place them on a baking sheet in a 350 degree oven for about 10 minutes. They should brown slightly and give off a lovely toasty fragrance.
- The pears should be ripe but not mushy. The amount of time you simmer them will depend on their ripeness, so check them after just a few minutes.
- If your blue cheese is salty, reduce the salt in the biscuits to just a pinch.
- I used a 2 1/2” biscuit cutter and I got 6 biscuits. Space them a couple of inches apart on the baking sheet because they expand to a finished diameter of 3 1/2”.
- Once you add the buttermilk, do your best not to handle the dough too much. It will toughen the finished product. Gently press and pat the dough into a solid mass, do not knead it.
- The biscuits are very tender and fragile, so be sure to let them cool completely before handling.
- These biscuits would also be really good with fresh fig slices in this syrup or perhaps a sweetened red wine reduction.
- Another way to serve is to make a trifle of sorts, layering crumbled biscuit, whipped cream, fruit and syrup in parfait glasses.
- If you don’t care for blue cheese, try the pears and syrup with Cinnamon Pecan Biscuits and substitute walnuts if you prefer.
- If you’re a pear lover, try the super delicious Pears in Honey Pine Nut Caramel with Artisanal Cheese or creamy Pear Pots de Crème. If you enjoy the combination of blue cheese and fruit, consider the unusually tasty Blue Cheese Cookies with Fresh Fig Jam.



Blue Cheese Walnut Biscuits with Pears and Cream
Serves 6

1/2 C mild honey
1/4 C+ 2 T water
1 – 2 t fresh lemon juice, to taste
3 - 4 fresh ripe Bartlett pears

1 C + 2 T flour
pinch to 1/8 t salt, depending on the salt level of the blue cheese
3 T sugar
1 1/4 t baking powder
1/4 t baking soda
1/3 C toasted walnuts (about 1 oz)
2 oz (4 T) cold butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 C + 2 T blue cheese, crumbled into small pieces
1/4 C + 2 T cold buttermilk

To coat the tops of the biscuits:
2 T + 2 t toasted walnuts (about 1/2 oz), chopped fine
1 T sugar
1/2 T butter, melted

1 C heavy cream

To prepare the pears, combine the honey and water in a saucepan and simmer to dissolve. Add the lemon juice and remove from heat. Peel, core and slice the pears and place in the honey syrup as you go to prevent browning. Return to low and gently simmer for a few minutes or until tender. Set aside to cool, spooning the syrup over the fruit every now and then to coat.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment or a silpat.

Prepare the biscuit top coating by finely chopping the 2 T + 2 t toasted walnuts and tossing with 1 tablespoon of sugar. Set aside. Melt 1/2 tablespoon of butter and set aside.

For the biscuit mix, place the flour, salt, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and 1/3 cup of toasted walnuts in the bowl of a food processor and process until the walnuts are finely ground. Add the cold butter pieces and the crumbled blue cheese and pulse in short bursts about 10 times. Do not overmix. Add the buttermilk all at once and pulse another 10 times. The mixture should look like very coarse meal rather than clumps of dough. Work quickly so the butter stays cold and firm.

Pour the crumbly mixture onto a clean work surface or a piece of parchment and gently gather, patting and pressing it together with your hands. Do not knead. Shape it into a round about 3/4” thick. Use a 2 1/2” round cutter dipped in flour to cut out 6 biscuits. Place them on the parchment-lined baking sheet at least 2” apart. Brush the tops with the reserved melted butter and sprinkle with the walnut sugar mixture, pressing down gently to secure the nuts. Bake about 13-15 minutes, until the biscuits are lightly golden. Cool completely before handling.

Whip the cream to a very soft peak. It should dollop loosely.

Cut the biscuits in half horizontally. Dollop with some whipped cream, layer with pears and garnish with plenty of syrup.

Membrillo

In the wonderful realm of fruit and cheese combinations, it's back to the basics. It doesn’t get any more fundamental than pairing the wonders of Membrillo and Manchego from Spain.

Membrillo is a sweet paste made from cooking and caramelizing fresh quince. There is so much natural pectin in quince that it forms a thick paste when it is combined with sugar and cooked slowly over low heat. Membrillo takes a bit of time to prepare, but it keeps well for quite a long time. It also makes a great gift for your cheese loving friends.

Manchego is probably the most famous cheese from Spain and readily available just about anywhere. It’s made from sheep’s milk and has a firm, crumbly texture and an ivory color with a flavor that is piquant, buttery, salty and nutty. It’s made on the plain of La Mancha, sharing territory with our fictional Don Quixote. It’s sold at various stages of aging: fresh, known as Manchego fresco; moderately aged, known as Manchego curado; and Manchego viejo, aged up to a year. The rind always bears the characteristic basket weave pattern.

In some regions, the combination of Manchego cheese and Membrillo paste is known as Romeo and Juliet. It’s a wonderful exercise for the imagination to entertain the origin of this application with each fabulous bite. In this case, I’ve added a pinch of sel gris and chili powder to pique the flavors and take this storied couple out of Shakespeare’s quaint countryside and into the spicy mystery of Iberia.



Bench notes:
- Membrillo also goes very well with lots and lots of other cheese, such as chèvre, Garrotxa or Parmigiano-Reggiano.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into them. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- If you don’t have a scale, you can use volume measurements to roughly determine the right amount of sugar.
- If you love quince, you might also enjoy Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince or Quince Pound Cake.


Membrillo

4 – 5 fresh quince
juice of 1 1/2 lemons
equal weight or volume of sugar to pureed quince
salt to taste

To poach the quince, put enough water to cover the quince in a large pot and add the juice of one lemon. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon water to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and lemon water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the quince are tender and easily pierced with a fork, about a half hour or so. Drain completely and cool a bit, then puree the cooked quince in a food processor.

Prepare an 8” square pan with enough parchment for a short overhang on two sides.

Weigh the quince puree and add nearly the same amount of sugar. I had 780 grams of puree and added 700 grams of sugar. Add the juice a half lemon and a pinch of salt and stir the mixture to combine.

Cook the quince puree over medium low heat, stirring the whole pot routinely to prevent scorching. The mixture will bubble and thicken and caramelize, becoming thicker as the steam evaporates and darker as the mixture reduces and the flavor intensifies. Cook for about an hour or so, until you have a very deep bronzy orange color. Take off the heat and taste for additional salt.

Pour the quince paste into the prepared pan and let cool and set up. Membrillo can be stored for quite a long time. I wrap mine in parchment, then tightly in foil and keep in the refrigerator. Serve with your favorite cheese, Serrano ham, toasted nuts and a nice Cava or some delicious Albariño or Rioja.

Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince

I always look forward to quince season. There’s something about the process of watching this oddly shaped and textured fruit transform into the most delectable and uniquely flavored rosy compote that is so interesting and enjoyable. Whether it's poached fruit, jam or membrillo, quince arrives just at the time we need it as a lot of the stone fruit of summer quietly escapes our grasp for another year.

I was just gifted with a bounty of fresh pineapple quince. An old friend introduced me to a new friend who has a tree in his back yard. It seems unusually early in the season but I’m more than thrilled. The aroma is transformative and lingers for days on end.

Cheese flan is somewhere along the spectrum of custard and cheesecake. It’s found in Latin culture but is usually prepared using cream cheese and evaporated milk. For this preparation, I decided to use some goat cheese to add a layer of complexity that I thought would go well with the poached quince. For the liquid I use reduced ratios of wet ingredients and heavy cream and some Muscat wine. The result is a kind of dense but creamy custard that really delivers an incredible pop of flavor. The light caramel complements the quince and presents a nice counterpoint for the goat cheese.

The quince takes some time to peel and poach, but the reward is tremendous. The flan is very easy and quick to prepare and bakes in 25 – 30 minutes. The flavors of both the flan and the fruit ripen overnight. If you do this in two steps, it will seem like no work at all. What you will have is a great celebration of this beautiful autumn.


Bench notes:
- As always, be very careful when working with caramel. Caramel burns really hurt, so always protect your hands and arms. As it reaches the right color, pour it into the ramekins and use a mitt or towel to carefully swirl just for a moment. The caramel does not have to go up the sides of the ramekin more than a little bit.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into quince. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- I keep the poaching liquid for the quince very simple so the true flavor comes forward without competing with the flan and the caramel. The syrup left over from the quince can be used to flavor drinks or drizzle over ice cream. You can also use it as a base to make sorbet or ice cream.
- If you can’t find an inexpensive Sauternes or Muscat, use a Monbazillac or Viognier or other favorite white wine that has a very slight sweet edge.
- Don't be tempted to bake it much longer than the recommended time. They will firm up as they cool. The baked flans rest overnight in the refrigerator to better create the liquid caramel sauce. The sugar has a chance to liquefy and they are easier to unmold. Once they are unmolded, let the flans sit for awhile until they can be served at room temperature. I’ve also eaten them a couple of days later straight out of the refrigerator. They are completely different – very dense with a mellow cheesy flavor. Also really delicious but in a different way!
- I’ve also made this flan base and steeped it overnight with a pinch of rosemary. The next day, I strain it out, bake and serve with quince, fresh fig or pear compote. It would also be delicious with an apple sauté.


Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince
Makes 4 servings using 3 1/4” diameter ramekins

3/4 C sugar
1/4 C water

4 oz goat cheese
4 oz cream cheese
1/3 C sugar
pinch salt
1/3 C cream
1/4 C white wine, such as Beaumes de Venise Muscat, Sauternes, Viognier or Monbazillac
2 eggs

Prepare caramel by placing sugar and water over medium high heat. If the sugar spatters up the sides of the pan, brush down the sides of the pot with a brush dipped in water. Cook the caramel until it is a medium amber. Take off the heat and wait a few seconds until it darkens a bit more on its own. Pour enough into the ramekins to coat the bottom and swirl just a bit up the sides.

In a food processor, blend goat cheese, cream cheese, sugar, salt, cream, wine and for just a minute or so. Pulse just until thoroughly blended. Pour into prepared ramekins.

Bake in water bath @ 325 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool and chill overnight.

To unmold, set the ramekins in about an inch of water that has been simmered and taken off the heat. Leave them there for about a minute. Remove them and run a very thin knife blade or small offset spatula around the rim. Invert onto a serving plate and give it a good tap. It should slip right out along with the liquefied caramel sauce. Serve at room temperature with poached quince.

Poached Quince

2 – 3 quince
2 C water
3/4 C sugar
juice of 1 lemon

Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Take off heat and add the lemon juice. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon syrup to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and syrup to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the quince are tender and have turned a deep pinkish orange. Cool and transfer to a clean airtight container and chill.

Blue Cheese Cookies with Fresh Fig Jam

Now we all know that fresh fruit and good cheese can make a fabulous dessert. And we all know how great figs and blue cheese are together. With fig season in full bloom, I’ve been wanting to make some figgy type cookies. There are so many incredible things to do with figs, but I thought a simple blue cheese cookie that is a little savory with a balance of sugar and salt would be great to pair with a simple fresh fig jam. An obvious but nonetheless delicious thought. It’s similar to the approach I took with my Fig & Goat Cheese Chocolate Sandwich Cookies, which I highly recommend. But this time I decided to bake the cheese into the cookie. It’s a fun alternative to every day cookies and reinforces the cheese and fruit dessert loveliness.

Use your favorite blue cheese in this cookie. It should be fairly assertive to stand up to the fig jam. And although I haven’t tried it, I think these sandwich cookies would go well on a lazy sunny afternoon patio with a nice petite syrah or a chilled Semillon or Monbazillac.



Bench notes:
- Substitute a mild honey for the sugar in the Fig Jam if you’d like. I also sometimes add a few fresh raspberries.
- Cook the fruit slowly on very low heat to preserve the full flavor. Use a splash of fresh lemon juice to perk up fruit if the taste seems a little flat.
- The next time I make these I would definitely press some finely chopped walnuts into the surface of the cookie.
- The cookies would probably also taste great with cherries poached in port or poached pears and walnuts.
- The cookies without the filling can be kept in an airtight container. I highly recommend waiting until the next day to serve them. I think it gives the cookie a chance to meld all the flavors together beautifully. Once you fill them with the jam, they will soften.
- Other great fig desserts and pastries to create now are A Provençal Sundae, Fresh Fig Raspberry Galette and Panna Cotta with Fig Compote and Orange Granite.


Blue Cheese Cookies with Fresh Fig Jam
Makes about 24 2” cookies or 12 sandwich cookies

Blue Cheese Cookies

6 oz blue cheese, softened
4 oz butter, softened
1/4 C + 2 T granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 C flour

Blend blue cheese, butter, sugar and salt in a food processor until creamy. Add flour and pulse until mixture just starts to come together and forms a clump. Gather dough and place on a piece of plastic. Flatten into a disk and place another piece of plastic over the top. Roll out the dough between the two sheets of plastic to about 1/4” thickness. Slide the dough in the plastic onto a baking sheet and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or a silpat. Remove the cookie dough from the refrigerator and gently lift off the top sheet of plastic. Use a 2” cookie cutter or a sharp knife to cut out cookies. Transfer to the baking sheets. You want the dough to remain cold, so work quickly.

Bake for about 15 to 18 minutes or until the edges just start to turn golden, rotating baking pans halfway through. Cool on a wire rack. Cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.

Fresh Fig Jam

1 pint of fresh figs
2 – 3 T water
1 - 2 T sugar, to taste

Chop the figs and place in a saucepan with the water and sugar. Cook on low heat until the figs are soft and juicy, stirring to prevent scorching. Add a bit more water if necessary as it cooks and taste to adjust sugar. Pull off the heat and cool.

Assemble the cookies and serve immediately.

Apple of My Eye

It’s a very happy circumstance that there are so many fantastic apple desserts in the world. Some have become great classics and others are being dreamed up every day in professional kitchens around the globe. I think Americans are particularly fond of apples and we tend not to stray too far from the classics because they’re so ubiquitous and delicious. But, hold on! Apple of my Eye is a mouthwatering surprise created by the incomparable Elizabeth Falkner.

In addition to being a celebrated pastry chef, Elizabeth is a fearless entrepreneur. She operates Citizen Cake in San Francisco as well as several other venues, including Citizen Cupcake, a Citizen Cake Kiosk in SOMA and the new Orson. I had the opportunity to intern at Citizen Cake right after finishing pastry school and it was a real treat. First of all, the pastry kitchen was huge and spotless. The worktable was in the center of the room so the staff faced one another instead of standing in a line. For a beginner, it was a good place to start. Elizabeth is a gracious person with a very creative spirit. She enjoys herself tremendously and it shows in everything she does.

I must say I was not prepared for how completely delicious this dessert is. I was very intrigued when I first saw the recipe because of my love of apples, cinnamon, balsamic, cheese. All of the elements sounded good but I was very curious about how they would all work together. So I set out to find out and let me tell you, the results are utterly delectable. Elizabeth takes the best of compatible flavors and combines them seamlessly. The caramelized apples have a bright freshness and a semi-soft texture. The Cheddar Crumble streusel adds not only texture but a slight salty edge. The Cinnamon Ice Cream rounds out the dessert with a creamy richness and perfect level of spice. The apple gastrique takes on the deep and dramatic hue of the balsamic and is a wondrous crowning touch, absolutely amazing. I enjoyed every note of this brilliant composition.

This dessert is definitely off the beaten track. But wow, is it incredibly interesting and satisfying. Elizabeth has said she started out to do a riff on Tarte Tatin. However, except for the caramelized apples, it is absolutely different. If you’re up for a new twist on traditional apple desserts, venture out and try this. You’ll be thinking about it long after that last lovin’ spoonful.


Bench notes:
- I've presented the recipe as published, but I personally would actually change the proportions of the components. I would suggest more apples, probably nearly twice the amount, which would also entail doubling the caramel. The Cheddar Crumbles recipe makes an enormous amount and I would halve that. And I would triple the recipe for the apple balsamic gastrique. It’s too delicious to use sparingly. It would also taste mind-numbingly delicious on caramel ice cream or chocolate. YIKES.
- You can make the ice cream a couple of days ahead. The Cheddar Crumbles will keep in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Prepare the apples just before serving.
- I don’t know if there is any good commercial Cinnamon Ice Cream out there to recommend if you don’t want to make it, but it’s indispensable to this dish. Maybe you have a local purveyor who carries it.
- I used a nice Bravo White Cheddar and it was perfect.


Apple of My Eye
adapted from Demolition Desserts by Elizabeth Falkner
Serves 4

1/2 C sugar
1 T fresh lemon juice
2 large (about 1 lb) Granny Smith apples
1/2 t pure vanilla extract
1/4 t coarse salt

1/2 C apple juice
2 T sugar
2 T balsamic vinegar

Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe below)
Cheddar Crumbles (recipe below)

Peel, core and cut the apples into 1" cubes.

Combine 1/2 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons water and lemon juice in a medium skillet. Make a caramel by cooking on high heat without stirring until sugar has dissolved and begins to take on the color of dark amber, about 4 to 5 minutes. Slowly tilt the skillet back and forth or swirl gently if sugar is darkening unevenly.

Remove from heat as soon as it starts to reach the right color and carefully add the apple cubes in a single layer. Return the skillet to medium heat and let the apples simmer in the caramel until they slowly begin to darken and absorb the caramel, about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and sprinkle with vanilla and salt. Let stand, without stirring or moving apples, until all the caramel has been absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes.

Combine apple juice, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring just to a boil and reduce, turning the heat down to medium-low. Continue cooking until it thickens and is reduced by half, about 20 minutes. The mixture will continue to thicken as it cools.

Cinnamon Ice Cream

1 C milk
2 C heavy cream
1/2 C sugar
1 stick cinnamon
1/2 t ground cinnamon
5 egg yolks
1/2 t vanilla extract

Warm the milk, cream and sugar with both kinds of cinnamon. Do not let the mixture boil. Turn off the heat and steep the spices for about 15 minutes or until you have the right flavor, tasting as you go.

Whisk eggs yolks and add some of the warm milk to temper the mixture, stirring constantly. Pour into the remaining milk, whisk and return to low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the custard coats the back of a spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track. Strain immediately into a clean container. Cool and chill thoroughly. If you want a stronger cinnamon flavor, leave the cinnamon stick in the custard.

Remove cinnamon stick and freeze according to your machine’s directions. Pour into a clean container, press a piece of plastic wrap over the surface and place in your freezer to firm up.

Cheddar Crumbles
Makes about 2 1/2 cups

1 C all-purpose flour
1/2 C plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 C confectioner's sugar
1 t coarse salt
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
1/4 t paprika
6 oz (1 1/2 sticks) butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
1/2 C coarsely chopped pecans
4 oz sharp white cheddar cheese, grated (about 2 C)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

Mix together flour, cornstarch, confectioner's sugar, salt, pepper, and paprika. Add the butter and blend until the mixture is crumbly. Sprinkle the pecans and grated cheese over the mixture and gently toss to combine. Distribute evenly on the baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn crumbles with a spatula and continue baking until crumbles are golden and cheese is crisp, about 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

To serve, place the apples on each place with a scoop of ice cream. Add a sprinkle of the cheddar cheese streusel to the side. Drizzle the apple-balsamic reduction on the plate or directly over the ice cream. Serve immediately.

Savor the apple joy.

Poppy Seed Cake with Mascarpone Cream

For some inexplicable reason, I haven’t worked much with poppy seeds. So when I ran across this recipe torn from a very long ago Food & Wine magazine, I thought I should break out the poppy seeds and give it a go. A quick glance at the ingredients and method seemed to reassure me that this would be a good cake. But nothing prepared me for just how nicely this poppy seed extravaganza turned out.

The flavor and texture of poppy seeds is hard to describe, but wow, what fun! The perfect balance of the true and trusted flavors of vanilla, butter and salt produces an unmistakably harmonic and delicious result. The cake has a tight crumb and the chewy crunchy texture of the seeds delivers all the interest to make this dessert sparkle. Egg whites enable the stark contrast of snow white cake and dark purple poppy seeds. Pretty to look at and delightful to taste, this is a great special occasion cake if you’re looking for an alternative to the usual fare. I also think it would be very good with champagne or sparkling wine.

The original recipe called for a Cream Cheese Frosting, but I wanted something lighter and creamier. I think this Mascarpone Cream is really perfect. It’s a subtle and delectable complement, adding a slightly tart and creamy balance to the dense texture of the cake.

Once in a while you find a recipe that is so easy to execute and so immediately delicious, you just have to bring it to the communal table. This is one of those recipes. I think you’ll find it irresistible.


Bench notes:
- Poppy seeds are expensive. Search out a bulk grocery in your area to see if they offer them. King Arthur Flour and Penzeys also carry them and offer better prices than the small jars you find in supermarkets.
- Although the recipe calls for baking the cake for 50 to 55 minutes, it baked in my hot-running oven in 41 minutes. Be sure to check yours around the 40 minute mark. The cake should be nicely browned and spring back when you lightly and gently tap the top. The cake should be just beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan and an inserted toothpick should come out clean.
- To frost the cake, apply a crumb coat by spreading a super-thin coating of cream around the side of the cake. Refrigerate to set the crumbs. Finish the cake with the remaining cream. If you'd rather not fuss with frosting it, you can also just slather the whole cake with the cream or serve the cream as a garnish.
- This cake is best enjoyed the same day.
- This recipe is from an old copy of Food & Wine magazine, but I can’t find a date on the page. In a frenzy to clear out a large stash of old magazines, I clipped the recipes I wanted to save and didn’t notice that the reference to this particular issue wasn’t in tact.



Poppy Seed Tante Cake
adapted from Food & Wine magazine
Serves 8

1 vanilla bean
2/3 C milk
2/3 C poppy seeds
1 2/3 C cake flour
2 t baking powder
1/2 t salt
6 oz (1 1/2 sticks) butter @ room temperature
1 C sugar
4 egg whites @ room temperature
pinch salt
1/4 C sugar

Mascarpone Cream

8 oz mascarpone
3 – 4 T confectioner’s sugar, to taste
1/3 C heavy cream
splash of vanilla extract

For the Mascarpone Cream, gently whisk the mascarpone and the sugar until combined. Add the cream and vanilla and mix until smooth and thickened a bit. Be careful not to overmix or the mascarpone will start to break down. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the cake, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. Scald the milk with the vanilla bean. Place the poppy seeds in a bowl and pour the scalded milk and vanilla bean over them. Cool to room temperature. Scrape the vanilla bean into the milk mixture.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Prepare a 9” x 2 1/2” round cake pan with butter, flour and parchment paper.

Sift the cake flour, baking powder and salt together.

Beat the butter until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Gradually add 1 C sugar and continue to beat until very light and creamy, about 5 minutes, stopping once or twice to scrape down the bowl.

Add one-third of the flour mixture at a time, alternating with half of the milk-poppy seed mixture and ending with the flour mixture. Stop the mixer just before thoroughly blended and gently finish the mixing by hand, using a rubber spatula.

Whip the egg whites and a tiny pinch of salt on medium speed until the whites are opaque and form soft peaks. Keep whipping as you begin to add in 1/4 C sugar, just a little bit at a time. Increase the speed to high just before adding the last couple of teaspoons of sugar. Whip until the meringue forms peaks that are stiff and shiny, about 1 minute.

Fold a third of the meringue into the cake batter. Continue to incorporate the remaining meringue in two additions, gently folding until there are no white streaks. Be careful not to overmix.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 50 – 55 minutes or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (mine baked in 41 minutes, so check yours early). Cool on a rack for 10 minutes. Invert the cake from the pan and finish cooling, right-side up, on the rack.

Frost the cake and serve.

Pears in Honey Pine Nut Caramel with Artisanal Cheese

Between the hectic pace of entertaining for the holidays and the peak excitement of preparing for all the upcoming inauguration parties, it might be just the right moment for a simple and beautiful little fruit recipe that is both elegant and delicious without a lot of fuss or fret. Pears are so good and plentiful right now, I thought it would be fun to do a simple riff on a recipe from Deborah Madison, famed for her vegetarian cookbooks and her dedication to fresh local produce.

If you’ve ever wished you could combine your dessert and cheese course, I highly recommend this great example of the perfect blend of fruit, nuts and cheese. The fresh fruit is delicately simmered just until tender in a delicious honey butter sauce. The caramel adds a shimmer of lusciousness that will leave you in unmistakable bliss. The pine nuts bring a creamy richness and nutty textural element. Perfecto. So if you’d like a little respite from the party production line, this dessert is like a soft pillow landing.

I once worked for a cheesemonger and it was one of the most interesting and enriching experiences I’ve had in the culinary world. Learning in greater depth about the origin and variety of hundreds of artisan cheeses available from the far reaches of the globe proved to be a total thrill. Among the many pleasures are all the rustic but elegant ways artisan cheeses are aged and packaged. The various papers, cheesecloth, farm stamps and seals are such a rich reminder that these supreme cheeses are crafted by hand and packaged with the heritage of all the local traditions. The colors and smells and tastes run the full range of every nuance imaginable. And the process of deciding on the language to describe the complexity and uniqueness of each one, determining the delectable garnishes and accompaniments that would enhance the tasting and then selecting the soothing wine pairings is clearly never-ending. It's really just so much fun.

Take a few moments to prepare and savor this divine little dessert. You’ll be sure to find yourself thinking about who might be next on your list to share and delight in this simple and sigh-inducing luxury.


Bench notes:
- Use a delicious fresh goat cheese or any favorite cheese that will melt easily. Humboldt Fog is delicious, as is Alta la tur, Robiola Bosina, Cana de Cabra, Purple Haze, Cravanzina, Valdeon, Roquefort or any creamy blue. Make it fun!
- I’ve reduced the butter in the original recipe by 1 T and added a bit of acid to brighten the caramel and cut the richness of the butter. I recommend rice wine vinegar or lemon juice, adding to taste.
- I used 2 pears and found that there was a good portion of sauce, but 3 pears will work, too.
- This is also good with a fresh grind of pepper.



Pears in Honey and Pine Nut Caramel with Artisanal Cheese
adapted from Deborah Madison

2 oz (4 T) unsalted butter (I reduced it to 3 T)
3 firm but ripe Bosc pears (I used 2 pears)
3 1/2 T mild honey
4 oz artisanal cheese (such as Point Reyes Original Blue, Humboldt Fog, dry Monterey Jack, sheep's-milk ricotta, tangy soft fresh goat cheese, or other local cheese) @ room temperature
3 T pine nuts
Pinch of fine sea salt

1 t rice wine vinegar or lemon juice, to taste (my addition)

Peel pears and cut in half. Core them and rub with lemon juice.

Melt butter in a skillet over medium high heat until it just begins to brown. Add pear halves cut side down and drizzle with honey. Swirl the pan gently to blend the butter and honey. Reduce heat to medium low. Cover and cook pears until tender when pierced with a knife. Check every few minutes to baste the pears and to be sure that the caramel is not getting too dark. Add a bit of water if caramel sauce turns deep amber before pears are tender, about 12 minutes.

Transfer the pears, cut side up, to serving plates. Top the pear cavities with crumbled cheese. Return the caramel sauce to medium-high heat. Add the pine nuts and sprinkle lightly with salt to taste. Add vinegar or lemon juice to taste. Cook until sauce is brown and bubbling, about 2 minutes. Spoon sauce over pears and serve.

Torta di Ricotta

Cheers to January 2009! January always presents us with the myth of Janus, the Roman god of gateways, of the beginnings and endings symbolized by the thresholds in our path. We often spend this time reflecting back on what has been and also looking forward to what will be and what we will make of the opportunities ahead.

It seems it’s right about this time that I begin to miss the bounty of fruit that the spring and summer provide. Despite all the fabulously beautiful desserts and pastries of fall, for me, it’s the introduction of fruit that always adds to the seduction of the pastry table. The anticipation of the quality and quantity of the coming new crops adds to the excitement of what lies in store. So it was a bit of a pleasure for me to dip into the jars of homemade preserves of seasons past held in my pantry for just such an occasion in order to bring a little spring reminder to this wonderful Italian Torta.

I love Italian pastries for their forthright simplicity and their rustic call to earthy artisan values. This tart begins with a delicious classic Pasta Frolla crust, which crumbles with the buttery loveliness of a shortbread, only lighter. It’s filled with a very simple ricotta just slightly dressed up with lemon zest and a touch of vanilla. The gorgeous color and jammy lusciousness of fruit preserves fulfill that desire for a quick look back and a longing look forward to the grand gestures of nature. This is an exquisite taste of Italy and a preview of the excitement and satisfaction that await in our kitchen as we shift into our hopeful New Year.


Bench notes:
- Look for the best quality preserves with low sugar as well as good creamy ricotta. I used blackberry but other fruit would also be great, such as plum, fig or orange marmalade. Or maybe a little combination.
- When rolling dough that has been chilled, let it sit for a few minutes to warm up a bit. As you begin to roll it out, if it’s cracking, it’s still too cold. Wait a couple more minutes and try again. It should still be cool but roll out smoothly without resistance.


Torta di Ricotta
Serves 10 to 12

Pasta Frolla

2 3/4 C flour
1 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
1/2 C sugar
1 T lemon zest
6 oz chilled butter, chopped
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Filling
2 C fresh ricotta
1/3 C sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
zest of 1 lemon or orange
3 eggs

1 C of quality fruit preserves

For the Pasta Frolla, place the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine ingredients. Add the cold butter pieces and pulse just until the butter is the size of small peas. Add the egg, egg yolk and vanilla and pulse just until the dough starts to clump near the center. Remove from the bowl and place on a piece of plastic wrap. Knead the dough gently just enough to pull it to together. Divide the dough into two pieces in 2/3 and 1/3 proportions. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Remove the larger piece of dough and let it sit for a few minutes to warm up a bit. On a lightly floured piece of parchment or a work surface, roll out the dough to about an 1/8” thickness. Line a 9” tart pan, pressing gently into the base of the pan. Trim the excess around the edge. Chill the lined tart pan.

Roll out the remaining dough to about an 1/8” thickness, using flour as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking. Cut the dough into 1” strips and chill.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the rack in the lowest third of the oven.

If necessary, heat the preserves very briefly just to loosen up to a spreadable consistency. Cool.

For the Ricotta Filing, place the ricotta in the bowl of a food processor and process until it becomes smooth. Add the sugar, vanilla, citrus zest and eggs and process just until combined. Pour the filling into the chilled tart. Gently spread the preserves over the ricotta filling.

Take the chilled strips of dough out of the refrigerator and lift carefully, using a small spatula to loosen if necessary. Place the strips on top of the filling in a lattice pattern. Press and firmly seal the edges. Trim any excess.

Place the tart on a baking sheet and bake on the lowest shelf of the oven for about 45 minutes or until the tart is golden. Cool and serve.

Fresh Ricotta Ice Cream

I know we are all knee deep in cookie making, but if you are beginning to feel like you might want a fantastically delicious and soothing detour, I’d suggest making this quick and easy Fresh Ricotta Ice Cream.

This unusual recipe comes from Mary Canales, the owner of Ici, a fabulous little ice cream shop in the Elmwood District of Berkeley where all the products are hand made from organic ingredients. Prior to opening her business, she spent several years as the Pastry Chef at Chez Panisse, which is where I was very lucky to have met her. If you’ve ever had the supreme pleasure of eating ice cream at Chez Panisse, you know it’s some of the very best. Pure fresh ingredients and delicious lush flavors, it's everything ice cream is supposed to be. If you have never dined at Chez Panisse, you must do so someday. The food, ambiance, kitchen and wait staff are unlike any other restaurant I’ve ever known. And of course, be sure to make a stop at Ici.

This is a very unique ice cream. There are no eggs and no cooking since the base is not a custard. It’s very light and tastes purely of fresh ricotta. The texture is a bit flaky, which makes this a fun new sensation in ice cream. The few bits of pistachio, chocolate and candied orange peel are wonderful if you choose to add them. Yes, it’s a lot like having an incredibly fresh, cool bite of cannoli, something that’s often very hard to find outside of Italian neighborhoods. Magnifico.

If you have a few spare moments, I strongly urge you to make the recipe I've included for fresh ricotta. It really takes no time at all and the product is so superior to anything you could ever buy at the market. Honestly, the sensation of quality is immediate. Once you taste the difference, you may never go back to spending good money for very mediocre ricotta.


Bench notes:
- To fully enjoy the best of homemade ricotta, it should be used immediately but it will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days.
- You will need cheesecloth to make fresh ricotta, which you can find at most grocers and hardware stores.
- If you don’t make your own ricotta, look for a good brand. Mary uses half Bellwether Farms ricotta (coarse and tangy) and half Calabro ricotta (smooth and sweet).
- Strega is an Italian liqueur originating in the mid 1800s. It’s made from approximately 70 different herbs and spices and often used as a digestive elixir. Saffron accounts for its bright yellow color. I used rum in this version.
- If you don’t have chocolate, candied orange or pistachios on hand, the ice cream is very good on its own. I can also imagine it with fresh blackberry or raspberry coulis in summer. Or toasted almonds and honey or a very light caramel. Or a compote of quince or figs!


Ici's Ricotta Ice Cream

Makes 1 1/2 quarts

2 1/2 C whole-milk good quality ricotta
1 C sugar
3/4 t vanilla
zest of 1 lemon
pinch of kosher salt
1 C heavy cream, preferably not ultra-pasteurized
1 T Strega liqueur or rum, to taste
2 to 3 T each of chopped pistachios, candied orange peel and bittersweet chocolate, or any combination (optional)

Place fresh ricotta, sugar, vanilla, lemon zest and salt in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add cream and blend. Taste for the important balance of salt. Add Strega or rum to taste. Refrigerate until completely chilled.

Freeze in an ice cream machine. Add the chopped pistachios, orange peel and chocolate at the end. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer container, top with a piece of plastic wrap pressed into the surface and freeze until firm.

Fresh Homemade Ricotta
adapted from Gourmet

2 quarts whole milk
1 C heavy cream
1/2 t salt
3 T fresh lemon juice

cheesecloth

Line a colander with a double layer of cheesecloth and place it in your sink.

Over moderate heat in a large 6-quart pot, slowly bring milk, cream and salt to a rolling boil, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. When it reaches a boil, add the lemon juice, then reduce heat to low. Stirring constantly, simmer until the mixture curdles, about 2 minutes.

Carefully and slowly pour the mixture into the cheesecloth-lined colander and let it drain for 1 hour. Discard the liquid. Cover and chill the ricotta.

New Wave Chocolate Sandwich Cookies

Figs, at last.

My love of figs and goat cheese as well as the friendly pairing of chocolate with either one of these ingredients led me to the idea for this cookie. Summer always presents the best of farm fresh figs and fresh artisan goat cheese and I know chocolate is a natural with both, so I went with it. It's kind of a sublime fruity San Francisco Oreo without the super sweet glut.

I start with a basic chocolate cookie that has a crisp texture and a deep cocoa flavor. I add a layer of goat cheese that has been sweetened with just enough honey to balance its acidity with the cocoa. Then I slather a fresh fig jam that bridges the two in a way that seems like a very perfect sum of its parts. If you love these ingredients separately, you’ll certainly love this trifecta. All the elements are in perfect harmony.

These cookies would make a great end to a very simple and light summer meal that draws on the strands of the freshest summer ingredients. They are a celebration of the gorgeousness of figs at this moment of the season in my region. I hope you’ll have the curiosity to try them and the inclination to share them with your very best friend.

Bench notes:
- You can toss in another flavor to the fig jam if you wish. I sometimes add a teaspoon or two of rosemary simple syrup in place of the sugar. Or you can try a lavender syrup or crushed anise seed in small amounts. I’ve also added a twist of black pepper right before I sandwich the cookies. Just be sure to keep it simple and let the figs shine through.
- I originally made these cookies with chocolate macarons parisienne. Although I thought the almond flavor was a nice complement, I found them too sweet. So I prefer these chocolate cookies for their deep cocoa flavor and their just-perfect level of sweetness and earthiness.
- Serve these cookies immediately. If allowed to sit for more than an hour or so, the cookie will become soft. This may be desired or not. It’s up to you.


Fig & Goat Cheese Chocolate Sandwich Cookies
Makes about 20 sandwich cookies

Chocolate Cookies
Makes about 40 cookies

6 oz (1 1/2 sticks) butter @ room temperature
1 C sugar
1 egg @ room temperature
2 t vanilla
1 1/2 C flour (7 1/2 oz)
3/4 C cocoa, sifted (2 oz)
1 1/4 t baking powder
1/4 t salt

Sift cocoa and spoon into measuring cup to get 3/4 C or 2 oz.

Sift together flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt.

Beat butter and sugar together for 2 – 3 minutes until smooth. Add egg and vanilla and beat for another minute.

Add dry ingredients on low speed and mix for about a 1/2 minute or so, just until combined. Divide dough into two parts and place each on a piece of parchment paper. Gather the dough and form into 12” x 1 1/2“ logs, rolling up in the parchment paper. Wrap the logs tightly in plastic wrap and freeze.

To bake, preheat oven at 350 degrees.

Slice dough into thin 1/4” cookies and bake @ 350 degrees for 10 minutes. Cool completely.

Fig Jam

1 pint of fresh figs
2 – 3 T water
2 T sugar, to taste
1 t raspberry jam

Chop the figs and place in a saucepan with the water, sugar and raspberry jam. Cook on low heat until the figs are soft and juicy, stirring to prevent scorching. Pull off the heat and adjust sweetness. Cool.

Goat Cheese Filling

6 oz goat cheese or chevre @ room temperature
1 – 2 t honey, to taste

Combine the goat cheese and the honey and stir until completely blended.

Assembly: Spread a thin layer of goat cheese filling on a cookie. Top with some fig jam. Finish with a second chocolate cookie. Serve immediately.

Goat Cheese Cake with Berries

One of my greatest pleasures is slowly mulling through my cookbooks and all those stacks of recipes rescued from magazines and newspapers of another time, finding inspiration again and again. Even greater is discovering a previously unknown and absolutely fabulous recipe in my midst. Today's incredible treasure is this Goat Cheese Cake from Emily Luchetti.

Have you ever wanted to eat a piece of cheesecake without feeling like you’ve just eaten a piece of cheesecake? This is your dessert. The recipe calls for goat cheese without the usual addition of cream cheese, so it's quite a different experience. Because goat cheese has a lower fat content and is a pure product without any gums or emulsifiers, it brings an incredible lightness to this beautiful dessert. That lightness is also emphasized by the addition of whipped egg whites gently folded into the batter. The slight tang is balanced by the sugar and rounded out by a bit of lemon juice and zest and the lovely perfume of vanilla. The cake tastes bright, fresh and absolutely delectable. The texture is bolstered by 3 tablespoons of flour that give it just enough body to allow a wonderful comparison to a New York Cheesecake, yet there is no fatty taste or heaviness left behind. I could go on and on. Are you with me?

The preparation is easy and quick and it’s ready in under an hour. Try this for your next dinner party or celebration and you will be amazed by the results. Thank you, Emily Luchetti!



Bench notes:
- Bring the goat cheese or chévre to room temperature to ensure an easy and complete combining of ingredients. Eggs must also be at room temp.
- I served this with blackberries that I sprinkled with sugar, a bit of Crème de Cassis and an equal splash of lemon juice to taste. Really delicious.
- This cake will keep for a few days, but the texture changes dramatically. When eaten fresh, it has a very light and airy texture. After refrigeration, it becomes more dense.
- I used an 8" cake pan because I wanted more height for presentation. It baked in 25 minutes in my hot oven.



Goat Cheese Cake with Berries
adapted from Classic Stars Desserts Emily Luchetti
Serves 8 to 10

Butter and granulated sugar for the cake pan
11 ounces fresh goat cheese @ room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
6 large eggs @ room temperature, separated
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 pint blackberries
sugar, to taste
lemon juice, to taste
Crème de Cassis, to taste (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a 9-inch round cake pan with butter and dust it thoroughly with granulated sugar. Tap out the excess.

Mix the goat cheese, sugar, vanilla, lemon zest, and lemon juice with the paddle attachment and beat until smooth. Add the egg yolks two at a time, beating well after each addition. Add in the flour and mix until incorporated.

Place the egg whites in a clean bowl and whip to soft peak. Gently fold the egg whites into the goat cheese mixture with a spatula. Be careful not to overmix or you will deflate the batter. Pour into the prepared pan.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Let cool to room temperature.

Toss the berries with sugar and lemon juice (and Crème de Cassis, if using), to taste.

Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake and turn out onto a platter. Go ahead and swoon.

Regional Riches

With its rich soil, rolling hills and temperate climate, northern California has given rise to extraordinary winemakers, organic farmers, ranchers and stellar artisan cheesemakers. In many cases, this abundance extends beyond the boutique groceries of the region to find a welcome place on shelves in metropolitan areas across the nation. But many of our region’s wonderful products do not travel to the far reaches of our world and I fully realize how very lucky I am to have this incredible wealth of talent and dedication available to me just steps away in my neighborhood.

One such local producer is Soyoung Scanlan, cheesemaker extraordinaire of Andante Dairy. I met Soyoung while I was working in the pastry kitchen of a fine dining restaurant a few years ago. She was our cheesemonger and I had the great fortune of being on the receiving end of her finely crafted delectable cheese. She crafts only small batches and every piece is exquisite. Her care and close attention to production and affinage are evident in every bite. Also an accomplished musician, Soyoung names each of her cheeses in keeping with her musical inclinations. If you live in the Bay Area or are ever in the region, please take the time to seek out Andante cheese. Although most of her cheeses go to the region’s finest restaurants, the French Laundry among them, they are available at the Saturday San Francisco Farmer’s Market and at our local Whole Foods.


In contrast to the region's emerging artisans, I pair Soyoung’s amazing cheese with one of the world’s oldest gifts from nature, Medjool dates. Dating back to 5th Century Egypt, dates were transported by the Moors to Spain and thrived throughout the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Medjool plantings originating from Morocco and Jordan are now cultivated in the Coachella Valley of California. Medjools are considered the largest, plumpest and most prized of all the varieties and should be readily available in your area.

Andante’s Minuet is a soft-ripened goat’s milk triple crème made by adding crème fraîche to the curds. Mélange is a fabulous blend of goat’s milk and cow’s milk that results in a beautiful tanginess and richness made in the style of the best brie. It has a light luscious texture combined with a nice acidic bite, which pairs perfectly with all of the wonderful elements found in a recipe for Roasted Dates with Sherry and Spices from The Last Course by Claudia Fleming. It’s an astonishing combination of old world and new world that will leave you happy for having found these abundant pleasures.

If you are unable to locate Andante cheese to serve with these dates, there are so very many other great choices. I would recommend just about anything, from a tangy goat to a gooey brie, a nutty gruyere, a tomme or a grand Parmigiano Reggiano. And of course there’s always ice cream: vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee or perhaps a fruit sorbet such as orange or mango, to name a few.

Bench notes:
- You may sometimes see a white powdery film forming on the surface of dates. This is due to their high level of natural sugar and is not a cause for alarm. It’s just sugar crystal formation. You can warm them in the oven or steam them and the crystals will dissolve.
- I used a Lustau Amontillado Los Arcos Sherry. I also think a Rainwater Madeira, with its caramel, orange and hazelnut notes, might work very well in place of the sherry.



Roasted Dates with Sherry and Spices
adapted from The Last Course by Claudia Fleming

24 Medjool dates, pitted
1 C Fino or Amontillado Sherry
1/4 C dark brown sugar
4 cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick
1 orange peel strip, 1” x 3”
1 C water
2 oz (4 T) butter, diced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place dates, sherry, brown sugar, spices, orange peel and water in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer to dissolve and blend ingredients. Pour in a shallow baking dish and bake @ 350 degrees for 15 minutes, basting every 5 minutes.

Remove the dates from the syrup. Cool and remove skins if you prefer. Strain the syrup back into the saucepan and discard spices. Bring syrup to a simmer and reduce by a third, about 7 minutes. Whisk in butter until the sauce is completely emulsified. Pour over dates and serve.