Apple Pie with Sour Cream Ice Cream & Maple Caramel

This is a riff on an all-American composition from Bill Yosses.  The three elements of apple pie, a tart ice cream and a garnish of maple caramel turn out to be a very harmonious pairing.

I mentioned in my last post that I always have lemons available in my kitchen and I feel the same way about apples.  Apple desserts are among my favorite and who doesn't love apple pie?  This one is topped with a cinnamon streusel like the American version of Dutch Apple Pie.  The Sour Cream Ice Cream adds that creamy and luxurious mouthfeel and a nice tart contrast to the sweet notes.  The Maple Caramel is a layer of buttery maple gooeyness with a hint of salt.  It's a good old fashioned American festival on a plate.

This is Yosses' wonderful concept but I altered the recipes a bit for easier home production and a bit less richness.  I use a simple butter dough that can be made in a food processor and eliminated the eggs from the ice cream.  I also thought the maple caramel sauce was too sweet, so I reduced the brown sugar and added some vanilla and a slight splash of brandy, just for fun.

This does take some preparation but each component is very simple, takes just a few minutes for each and can be staged over a few days to make assembly fairly easy.  This is a super delightful way to enjoy apples, ice cream and caramel!

On another note, I keep forgetting to say I've joined twitter and Pinterest.  If you're there as well, please let me know how to find you so I can follow you.  Thanks! 



Bench notes:
- To stage this out over 2 - 3 days, make the ice cream and store in your freezer.  Make the streusel and store in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 2 days ahead.  Prepare the pastry dough the morning you expect to bake or the night before.  Prepare the apples and caramel just before baking.
- I used Fuji apples.  Since apples bake down a bit, mound them slightly as you place them in the pie shells.
- If you prefer, make the pie in a regular pie dish or tart pan rather than individuals.  You'll want to use more apples (probably twice the amount here) and would need to increase the baking time.
- I eliminated the egg yolks, added more sugar (about 2/3 cup total) and about 1/8 teaspoon salt to Yosses' ice cream.  If you don't have a vanilla bean, add 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract or do as I did and leave it out entirely.  So the idea here is to taste as you whisk it together and adjust to your own preferences on all these dimensions.  If you prefer to make Yosses' custard style recipe, he uses 4 yolks and cooks it using the usual method.  The sour cream is added last to the cooked custard.
- Substitute your favorite vanilla ice cream if you don't have an ice cream maker.
- Yosses plates this dessert with a small nibble of honeycomb and 2 cheeses: Toma Celena, an Alpine-style rich and nutty hard cheese, and Colby, a soft and mild cheese.  Both are made from cow's milk.



Apple Pie with Sour Cream Ice Cream & Maple Caramel
Makes 6 servings and about 1 1/2 pints of ice cream

Sour Cream Ice Cream

2 C sour cream
1 C half-and-half
1/2 C sugar [I used about 2/3 C]
1/2 vanilla bean [I left this out]
pinch salt [my addition]

Streusel

1/3 C flour
2 T sugar
2 T dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 t cinnamon
1 1/2 oz (3 T) cold butter
pinch salt, to taste

Pastry Dough

1 C flour
1 1/2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Maple Caramel

2 oz butter
2 T dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C maple syrup
1/2 t vanilla
1/2 t brandy (optional)
pinch salt, to taste

Apple Filling

1 lb (2 very large) apples
2 T sugar
1/2 t flour
pinch cinnamon
1 t lemon juice

For the ice cream, whisk together the sour cream, half-and-half, sugar and seeds scraped from the vanilla bean (if using).  Add salt, to taste.  Pour into an airtight container and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Churn according to your machine's instructions.  Pour into an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

For the streusel, whisk together the flour, sugars, cinnamon and salt.  Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the dry ingredients.  Toss the mixture, coating the butter with flour.  Rub the mixture together with your fingers until the butter is roughly worked into the dry ingredients, pinching it here and there until it collects into clumps and resembles coarse crumbles.  Chill until ready to use.

For the pie dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process until combined.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture.  Pulse until it looks like very coarse meal with small bits of butter that are about 1/8" - 1/4".  Add the cold water and pulse just until the dough starts to clump.  It will look a bit like small curd cottage cheese.  Do not overmix.  Remove the dough, shape into a flat disc and wrap in a piece of plastic.  Chill for at least an hour.

Place six 3 1/2" ring molds or tartlet pans on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silpat.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on a lightly floured piece of parchment or work surface.  Let it sit for a couple of minutes to take the chill off.  Lightly dust the surface of the dough with flour and roll out to about an 1/8" thickness, keeping the work surface and dough lightly floured as needed.  Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces.  Lift each piece into the ring molds or tartlet pans and gently shape to fit closely into all the contours of the pan.  Chill the pie shells until ready to use.

For the Maple Caramel, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.  Add brown sugar and whisk to combine.  Cook, whisking constantly, until sugar is completely dissolved.  Bring to a boil for two minutes.  Add maple syrup and boil another two minutes, whisking constantly.  Remove from heat and pour into a small bowl.  Add vanilla, brandy (if using) and salt, to taste.  Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel and core apples.  Cut into 1/4" slices and then cut crosswise into 1/2" pieces.  Place in a bowl and toss with the sugar, flour and cinnamon.  Add the lemon juice and toss to coat.

Nestle the apples into the pie shells until they are slightly mounded.  Top each pie with streusel.  Place the pies on the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 35 - 40 minutes or until the fruit juices are bubbling and the pastry has slightly browned.  Serve warm or at room temperature with a scoop of ice cream and a drizzle of maple caramel.

Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise

Throughout history, quince have been associated with romance and commitment, a gift from Aphrodite.  By the early 18th century, this unique fruit had found its way to the United States.  Although quinces are a staple in savory Moroccan tagines, North African and Middle Eastern stews, Chinese teas and Hindu chutneys, in America, they are mostly poached in a light syrup, used as a pastry filling or made into a sweet paste and served as an accompaniment to cheese.

We are at the very end of quince season, so I thought I'd jump in before we forge our path into a new year.  It's hard to believe we've breezed right through the 2012 holiday season, but here we are.

This dessert is composed of an Olive Oil Sponge Cake that is one of the easiest and tastiest sponge cakes you'll ever make.  It's my very favorite of its kind.  The quince compote is served alongside the cake with a helping of crème anglaise, a classic French dessert sauce.  The contrasting combination of textures and lightness and richness is more than satisfying for fans of each.  If you don't have time for the sauce, vanilla ice cream is purely perfect as a delicious accompaniment.

Wishing you a really terrific New Year's celebration with close family and friends and sending heartfelt thanks for your lovely companionship here at my blog.  Let's set our tables in 2013 with great friends, sumptuous meals and beautiful pastry.  Cheers!!

Bench notes:
- Quince compote can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days.  The sponge cake can be made, wrapped in plastic and stored in an airtight container at room temperature one day ahead.  (It also freezes well.)  The crème anglaise can be made one day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
- Be care when peeling and cutting into quinces.  They are very hard and will take steady but careful force.  Use a sharp chef's knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers.  I find them easier to work with if they are first cut into quarters.
- I like a crème anglaise that is less rich than most recipes, so I use whole milk rather than cream.  If you prefer a richer sauce, you can substitute 1 cup half-and-half (or 1/2 cup heavy cream and 1/2 cup milk).



Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise
Makes 8 servings

Poached Quince
3 C water
3/4 C sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split
1/2 cinnamon stick
3" strip of lemon or orange peel, pith removed
2 - 3 quinces

Olive Oil Sponge Cake

Crème Anglaise
1 C whole milk
2 egg yolks
2 T + 2 t sugar
1/8 t - 1/4 t vanilla, to taste

For the quince compote, bring the water, sugar, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and citrus peel to a boil.  Lower heat to a simmer.

Cut the quince into quarters and then peel and core them.  Cut them into 1/2" slices and place in the simmering syrup.  Bring to a boil.  Press a round of parchment paper onto the top of the mixture to hold in the steam.  Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the quinces are tender and have turned a deep rose color, about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.  Cool and transfer the fruit and syrup to a clean airtight container and chill.

Prepare the sponge cake and cool completely.

For the crème anglaise, bring the milk to a simmer.  In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until thoroughly combined.  Add half the warm milk to the yolks and whisk together.  Add remaining milk and whisk thoroughly.  Pour the mixture into the saucepan and return to low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture thickens slightly.  Do not boil.  The sauce is ready when it coats the back of the spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track, about 3 - 4 minutes.  Remove from heat and immediately pour into a clean bowl to stop the cooking.  Add vanilla and cool.

To serve, plate a slice of cake and garnish with thin slices of quince and crème anglaise.

Chocolate Cakes with Pears & Caramel

It’s March! And it looks like the atmosphere is determined to deliver more rain and snow. So naturally that conjures up thoughts of a cozy meet-up of spice and pears and that soother of all souls, chocolate. It feels like a good time for a dish of some down to earth dessert that delivers a good dose of comfort and pure pleasure in this wintry climate.

The Fastest Fudge Cake is from chocolate powerhouse Alice Medrich. The recipe is not at all fussy - a quick snap of the fingers and it’s ready to go in the oven. The butter is melted rather than creamed and the whole thing comes together in one bowl, so it comes in handy as a last minute preparation. For this dessert, I’ve baked just a half recipe, which amounts to seven cupcakes.

The Very Spicy Caramel Pears are out of Room for Dessert, the great first cookbook from David Lebovitz. The pears are baked in the oven in an easy caramel sauce composed of butter, brown sugar and the warmth of some very pungent spices and a blast of booze. When they’re done, the sauce is strained and reduced with a splash of cream added to smooth things out.

So if this weather has put a crimp in some of your best laid plans for getting around town, make the best of it. If you’re in the mood for a warm indulgence on a cold day, this composition from two of our best dessert authors should fill the bill.


Bench notes:
- I use an ice cream scoop for uniform portioning of the cake batter.
- Fill the empty wells of your cupcake pan 1/3 of the way with water to keep the entire pan at an even baking temperature and prevent it from over-heating.
- I list the baking time for the cakes as a spread of 15 – 18 minutes because ovens vary so greatly. Be sure to check them on the early side to avoid over-baking and dry cake, especially if your oven runs hot. The cakes are done if they spring back when touched. A toothpick test should come out with a few moist crumbs. Let them cool in the pan for just a minute and then remove the cakes to a wire rack. Removing them from the residual heat of the pan helps to keep them from becoming tough and rubbery.
- If you prefer, make the whole cake recipe and bake in an 8” or 9” cake pan. The full recipe is at Fine Cooking.
- Steam burns can be very painful. When removing the foil from the baking dish, lift the corner that is farthest and away from you to avoid burning yourself.
- You can leave the cream out of David’s spicy caramel recipe if you prefer. Substitute your favorite spices. It would also be very delicious with sliced apples, baked for about 25 minutes. David serves his recipe with vanilla ice cream.
- For presentation, I sliced off the slight dome of the cupcake and inverted onto the plate.
- Sadly, David's Room for Dessert is out of print and now costs a small fortune if you can find it, but many of those recipes (completely updated and revised) are featured in Ready for Dessert along with a selection of new recipes.


Chocolate Cakes with Pears & Caramel
Cake adapted from Alice Medrich
Pears adapted from Room for Dessert by David Lebovtiz
Serves 6 – 7

Fastest Fudge Cake (1/2 recipe)

1/2 C flour
3 T unsweetened natural cocoa powder (not Dutch processed)
1/4 t baking soda
1/8 t salt
2 oz (4 T) butter, melted and warm
1/2 C + 2 T brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1/2 t vanilla extract
1/4 C hot water

Very Spicy Caramel Pears

2 oz (4 T) butter
1/2 C light or dark brown sugar, packed
15 whole cloves
2 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
1/2 t black peppercorns
1/4 C Cognac, brandy or rum [I used rum]
4 pears, Comice or Bosc [I used D’Anjou]
1/4 C heavy cream

For the cake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 7 wells in a standard cupcake pan.

Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt.

Combine the melted butter and brown sugar. Add the egg and vanilla and stir until thoroughly combined. Add the flour mixture all at once and stir just until all the flour is moistened. Pour the hot water over the batter and stir just until it’s incorporated and the batter is smooth. Scoop the batter into the prepared cupcake pan, filling each one about 3/4 full.

Bake about 15 - 18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean with just a few moist crumbs attached. Cool cakes in the pan for just a minute and then remove them to cool on a wire rack.

Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Choose a baking dish large enough to hold the sliced pears in a single layer.

Cut the butter into small pieces and place it in the baking dish with the brown sugar. Place the dish in the oven for a few minutes until the butter is melted.
Crush the whole spices with a mortar and pestle or place them in a plastic bag and pound them with a rolling pin.

Peel and core the pears and cut them into quarters.

Remove the dish from the oven and add the crushed spices and liquor. Stir to combine all the ingredients. Add the pears and toss everything together to coat the fruit. Arrange the pears in a single layer.

Cover the dish with foil and bake for 30-45 minutes, depending on the size and firmness of your pears. The pears should be easily pierced with a knife but not mushy. Stir and baste them a couple times during cooking to make sure they’re evenly coated with sauce.

Remove the dish from the oven and lift the pears out of the cooking liquid and into a bowl. Scrape all the juices and spices from the baking dish into a sauté pan. Add 1/4 cup cream and cook over medium heat until the mixture turns a deep color, thickens and caramelizes. Strain the finished sauce over the pears and serve with the chocolate cake.

Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream

I’m really hoping you have a bounty of fresh peaches in your area because this is a fabulous dessert. It comes from Daniel Humm, a native of Switzerland who was Executive Chef at Campton Place in San Francisco and is currently at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. He's received many awards and accolades so I decided to try his take on this seasonal dessert. Wow, am I glad I did.

Although this is not a particularly fancy or laborious preparation, the elements taken together feel like a well planned marriage. Fresh peaches are smothered in a light syrup of white wine, honey and a slight sprig of rosemary. Don’t let the addition of this herb scare you away; it’s only steeped for a few minutes and it deepens the flavor beautifully without overpowering or influencing too much. The 40 minutes of roasting really caramelizes the sauce and produces wonderfully soft fleshy fruit. The Mascarpone Ice Cream delivers a lovely and natural creamy counterpoint to the warm glow of the peaches, full of flavor without being too heavy or too rich.

If you find yourself in the company of some pretty peaches anytime soon, this is an indulgence worthy of your time and attention. It’s got a bit of a Mediterranean feel to it, so it's just the sort of dessert to enjoy al fresco as a pure and simple sunny summer luxury.


Bench notes:
- The recipe calls for 7 oz of mascarpone. The container I bought was 8 oz and I wound up using the whole amount.
- The Mascarpone Ice Cream as written was too sweet for my taste so I added 1/4 C buttermilk to the ice cream base. I thought this not only tempered the sweetness but also produced a wonderfully acidic tang that enhanced the mascarpone in the finished ice cream. If you prefer your desserts on the not-too-sweet end of the spectrum, you can do as I did or perhaps consider reducing the sugar in the ice cream to 1/2 C + 2 T. Taste the heated milk and sugar mixture and judge accordingly.
- The ice cream does take quite a bit of salt. Add a small pinch at a time and keep tasting. You'll know when it pops.
- I always chill my ice cream base overnight. This give the flavors a chance to relax and marry and ensures the mixture is very well chilled, which saves on the wear and tear of your ice cream machine.
- I used Viognier wine for the peaches but any good Sauvignon Blanc will do.
- The recipe calls for peeling the peaches. I did not.
- Put the peaches and the syrup in a baking dish that is not too large. The first time I made this in a large dish the syrup was shallow and it evaporated too quickly during the roasting process and burned. My oven does run hot, but I’d advise to check the peaches closely during that last 15 minutes of roasting. Or perhaps lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees.
- I think this dessert is best served when the peaches and the sauce are warm.
- You could definitely get more than four servings out of this if needed.
- The wine sauce for the peaches is really delicious. I’m sure I’ll use it in other applications, not necessarily always for roasting.



Roasted Peaches with Mascarpone Ice Cream
adapted from Daniel Humm in Food & Wine magazine
4 servings

Mascarpone Ice Cream

2 C whole milk
4 egg yolks
3/4 C plus 2 T sugar
1 C mascarpone (7 ounces) [I used an 8 oz container]
1/2 t fresh lemon juice
Pinch of salt
1/4 C buttermilk [my addition; see note above]

Roasted Peaches

2 C white wine, such as Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc
2 T honey
1 C water
1/4 C sugar
1 rosemary sprig
4 large ripe but firm peaches

For the ice cream, combine the milk and 3/4 C sugar in a saucepan. Heat until the sugar is dissolved and the milk is simmering.

Whisk the egg yolks with the 2 T sugar until light yellow. Slowly add the warm milk, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from cooking. When all the milk has been added and combined, pour back into the saucepan and cook over medium low heat until the mixture thickens a bit, coats the back of a spoon and leaves a clean trail when you make a streak with your finger. Do not boil. Take off the heat immediately and pour into a clean container. Whisk in the mascarpone, lemon juice and salt to taste. Add buttermilk, if using. Cool completely. Cover and place in the refrigerator to chill completely.

Pour the chilled custard into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface, cover and freeze until firm.

To prepare the peaches, combine the white wine, honey, water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and slow boil until the mixture is reduced by about half. Add the rosemary sprig and let stand for 10 minutes. Discard the rosemary.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Peel the peaches if desired. Halve and pit them and arrange in a baking dish small enough to just fit the peach halves. Pour the rosemary syrup on top and roast the peaches until tender, about 40 minutes, basting and turning the peaches half way through.

Scoop the Mascarpone Ice Cream into serving bowls and top with the peach halves. Spoon the warm poaching liquid over the fruit and serve right away.

Roasted Figs with Fennel Ice Cream

Figs have arrived at the marketplace and they are a very welcome sight. Summer fruit season is now in full swing. To your stations!

Figs have a double life. For this first round, I’m bathing figs in a dab of port, brown sugar and lemon peel and roasting them for about 20 minutes. This brings out their lusciousness and coats them with a delicious syrup. I then pair the figs with some luxurious Fennel Ice Cream, which gives the dish another very nice and simple creamy layer of nature. Fennel seeds are highly aromatic and often found in the cuisine of the Mediterranean, India and Pakistan. We see them here in products such as breads, sausages and Chinese Five Spice Powder. I think the flavor of fennel marries well with this fig preparation.

I hope you're able to welcome figs now or sometime very soon wherever you are. They are so wonderful whether you eat them as they are or work them into your dessert or savory summer menus. Cheers!


Bench notes:
- The Roasted Figs are loosely based on a recipe from David Lebovitz that I adapted to suit the Fennel Ice Cream. His recipe also contains honey, sprigs of thyme and he uses red wine or liqueur as a base. It’s wonderful. It would be fun to try with balsamic vinegar as well.
- Use a regular peeler to get the lemon strips without any of the white pith.
- These figs are also really delicious with Lemon Verbena Ice Cream. And probably Pine Nut Rosemary Ice Cream! Or if you’re a fan of chocolate, Chocolate Spice Praliné Ice Cream.
- A couple more of my favorite fig treats are A Provençal Sundae and Chocolate Spice Cake with Figs.


Roasted Figs with Fennel Ice Cream

Fennel Ice Cream
Makes about 1 quart

1 2/3 C heavy cream
1 1/3 C milk
2 1/2 t fennel seeds, crushed
1/2 C sugar
pinch of salt
4 egg yolks

Roasted Figs
loosely based on a recipe from David Lebovitz

12 fresh ripe figs
2 T Port
2 T dark or light brown sugar
3 1” strips of fresh lemon peel, yellow part only

For the ice cream, bring cream, milk, fennel seeds, sugar and a pinch of salt to a low simmer. Take off the heat, cover and let steep about 30 minutes.

Strain out the fennel seeds and reheat the cream mixture just until warm. Whisk yolks together in a bowl. Add milk mixture in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook on medium low, stirring constantly, until mixture coats back of spoon and a track remains when you run your finger through it. Do not let the mixture boil. Immediately strain the custard into a clean container and let cool completely. Cover and place in your refrigerator to chill thoroughly for a few hours or overnight.

Freeze in your ice cream machine according to directions. Pour into a clean container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

To roast the figs, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the figs in half and place them in a bowl. Add the port, brown sugar and lemon peel and toss to mix and coat the fruit. Place the figs cut side down in a single layer in a shallow baking dish. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake for 15 – 20 minutes. Remove from oven and gently lift the foil away from you to avoid a steam burn. Cool the figs and serve.

Peaches with Honey Sabayon and Chamomile Granita

I happened to be drinking a cup of chamomile tea slightly sweetened with honey and it hit me. Odd how these things happen, but these flavors evoked thoughts of peaches. The next thing I knew I was in the kitchen putting these elements together to see if my hunch would materialize into something fun and delicious.

This is a dessert that is more than the sum of its parts. Fresh peaches are so good right now and when garnished with Honey Sabayon, they become a lovely summer dessert. Add another layer of slightly sweet and cool Chamomile Granita and the whole thing becomes a very different and delicious combination. The bright and pure goodness of peaches in their juices and the honey wine flavor of the sabayon are both heightened by the very subtle herbal sensation of chamomile. As the granita melts into the sabayon, this dessert becomes really unusual and unmistakably divine.

Alhtough this composition may sound complex, once the granita is ready, you can assemble the dessert in about 20 – 25 minutes. It’s a great coda to a summer meal when you’re in the mood to dazzle a plate of simple fresh fruit with a little luscious flair. A bite of freshness, creamy and icy cool all in one remarkable bite.


Bench notes:
- The Chamomile Granita is a frozen dessert so it needs to be made ahead. It can sit in your freezer in an airtight container for about a week or so. Just be sure to continue to scrape it a few times to keep it loose.
- I was going to sweeten the chamomile tea with honey but I really wanted the pure taste of chamomile to shine through so I used sugar instead.
- You can also serve this dessert in parfait glasses, layering with sabayon and peaches and topping with the granita.
- If your honey is granulated or solidified, just warm it gently and it will loosen up and smooth out.
- I'm also wondering how this would taste with the peaches and their juices, honey vanilla ice cream and the Chamomile Granita.


Peaches with Honey Sabayon and Chamomile Granita
Serves 6

Chamomile Granita

2 C water
1/4 C sugar
6 bags or 2 T chamomile tea

Honey Sabayon

3 egg yolks
1/4 C + 1 T honey
1/2 C white wine, such as Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc or white Muscat
1/4 C cold heavy cream

Peaches in Honey Lemon Syrup

4 fresh ripe peaches
1/3 C honey
1/4 warm water
2 - 3 t fresh lemon juice, to taste

To make the Chamomile Granita, bring the water and sugar to a boil and add the tea. Take off the heat and steep for 1 hour. Remove the tea bags, pressing them to extract all the flavor. (If you’re using loose tea, pour through a fine mesh strainer.) Pour the sweetened tea in a shallow airtight container and place in your freezer. After about 2 hours, take a fork and scrape the surface of the granita with a fork to form icy crystals. Place back in the freezer and repeat again a couple of hours later.

To prepare the Honey Sabayon, whisk egg yolks, honey and wine together in a stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure that the bowl is not touching the water. Check periodically to see that the water is not boiling. Whisk constantly for 5 - 7 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl, and cook until the mixture is thickened and expanded in volume. Remove from heat and continue whisking for a bit. Set aside to cool.

While the sabayon is cooling, prepare the peaches. Whisk the honey and warm water together until dissolved and blended. Add the lemon juice to taste. Cut the peaches into thin slices and toss with the honey lemon syrup. Set aside, tossing gently a couple of times to keep the peaches coated with the juices.

Finish the sabayon by whisking 1/4 cup of cold heavy cream just until soft peaks form. Fold the cream into the sabayon until well combined.

To assemble, place a dollop of sabayon in each serving dish and layer slices of peaches on top. Add a couple more dollops of sabayon and garnish generously with Chamomile Granita. Serve immediately.

Toasted Almond Semifreddo with Balsamic Cherries

Almonds in a variety of forms are a perfect match for the season’s bounty of stone fruit that is blissfully descending upon us as this gorgeous season unfolds. So now is a good time for a delicious pairing of almonds and cherries. I’ve chosen a Toasted Almond Semifreddo and a bright cherry compote to highlight the kind of match that is made for the moment.

Semifreddo is the Italian term for "half cold" and is often used as the description for many kinds of partially frozen desserts. This semifreddo has a deep toasted almond flavor, a very light but creamy and luxurious texture and it’s super easy to make. Because it’s sort of half frozen, this tastes more like an airy cold mousse rather than a rich ice cream.

While the semifreddo is firming up in the freezer, you can put together the cherry compote that consists simply of pitted fresh cherries, a bit of sugar, some orange zest and a bracing splash of balsamic vinegar, which lends just the right depth and spark of acidity.

Do take advantage of the abundance of fresh cherries in season. Their welcome appearance invites the long and gentle days of summer. The vibrant color and delicious juices of these beautiful gems will stain our fingertips for just a few weeks, so let's get going!



Bench notes:
- When using a cherry pitter tool, be extra careful to account for all the cherry pits. Even though it does a great job of piercing the fruit, sometimes the pits stay lodged in the center, so check and be sure you can account for all of them!
- When lining the loaf pan, I place a strip of parchment on top of the plastic to help create a smoother surface. If you don’t have parchment, you can use a warm knife or metal spatula to smooth out the creases.
- You will get more loft if your egg whites are at room temperature. Whip the whites to a foamy soft peak first to unfold and stretch out the proteins before adding the sugar. Drizzle the sugar just a few sprinkles at a time to ensure they are stabilizing the foam.
- Whip the cream just until soft peaks form. This means the cream should have a soft lilt that is droopy and barely holds its shape. If you go too far, the mixture will be grainy. The meringue should be beaten to a stiff peak, which means it should stand up when peaked without falling over.
- As always, exercise caution when serving raw egg whites.
- The compote should be served at room temperature to enjoy the full flavor. Add the balsamic vinegar to taste. The flavor of the balsamic can dissipate over time, so taste before serving if the compote sits overnight. If you don’t care for balsamic vinegar, add a good pinch of cinnamon instead during the cooking process.
- The balsamic cherries would be good over ice cream – vanilla, chocolate, caramel come to mind – and would also be good with a cheese course.
- Actually, my favorite fruit with this semifreddo is apricots that have been simmered or roasted with a bit of honey, but I couldn't find nice apricots this week. It would also taste fabulous with peaches warmed in a honey lemon syrup.




Toasted Almond Semifreddo
makes about 6 – 8 servings

3/4 C (about 4 oz) whole almonds, toasted
1/4 C sliced almonds, lightly toasted + extra to garnish (about a total of 1 oz)
1/2 C sugar, divided
pinch of salt
3 egg whites @ room temperature
1 C heavy cream, chilled
1/4 t almond extract
1/8 t vanilla extract

Balsamic Cherries

3 C (about 1 lb, 2 oz) fresh cherries, pitted
2 T water
1/4 C sugar, to taste
pinch salt
zest of half of a large orange
1 T – 2 T balsamic vinegar, to taste

Toast the sliced almonds in a single layer in a 350 degree oven for about 6 - 8 minutes. Watch them closely as they will burn quickly. Toast the whole almonds for about 10 - 15 minutes, checking to see if they are toasting evenly and shaking the pan to redistribute them.

Line an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang on each side. You can also place a strip of parchment paper on top of the plastic to help form smoother sides.

Grind 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds with 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar and a pinch of salt in a food processor until finely ground. Pour into a bowl. Combine the 1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds with the finely ground almond mix.

Beat the egg whites until they are opaque and hold soft peaks. Add remaining 3 tablespoons sugar just a little bit at a time, increasing speed to high. Beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.

Whip the chilled cream with almond and vanilla extracts just until it holds soft peaks.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold meringue into the whipped cream. Fold in nut mixture gently until there are no white streaks. Pour into the prepared 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan. Smooth the top until it’s level. Cover with the overhanging plastic wrap and place in your freezer until firm, about 8 hours or overnight.

To make the cherry compote, place the pitted cherries with the water and sugar in a saucepan. Add the orange zest and simmer until the juices are rendered and the cherries are fairly tender, tasting for the right amount of sugar. Remove from heat and add the balsamic vinegar. Cool completely.

Run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the semifreddo to loosen. Lift gently out of the pan using the plastic overhang. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert. Carefully pull off the pan, plastic wrap and parchment if you used it. Garnish with toasted almonds.

Slice with a sharp knife. Garnish with balsamic cherries and serve immediately.

Ancho Ice Cream with Dark Chocolate Cake

The use of spicy chile powders in desserts is nothing new. There are all kinds of delicious cakes, cookies, truffles and ice cream that incorporate the kick of chile. Most of the time they include chocolate, but I thought I’d work on spicing up a vanilla ice cream because I wanted to see if I could get a true chile flavor that would be enhanced by a chocolate component. Since I love the taste of chile, I wanted to be able to distinguish the chile flavor on its own.

This recipe is inspired by all those tasty adventures. I start with a simple vanilla ice cream that contains a dusting of ancho and chipotle chile powders. It’s an intriguing combo that introduces a really wonderful smokiness with a little kick of heat in a creamy base. And when it cozies up to the chocolate, the full effect is remarkable. This is a very adventurous way to enjoy a nearly seamless blend of all the amazing sensations of spice, heat, deep dark cocoa and vanilla. It’s been one of my favorite recent experiments.


Bench notes:
- I used 1 teaspoon of ancho chile powder and 1/2 teaspoon of chipotle chile powder. I think it’s the right level of heat and I love the luscious and complex smokiness that the chipotle brings to the combination. But every palate is different, so add a bit of the chile powders at a time and see what you think. It’s going to increase in intensity as it sits in the base overnight but the flavor of the ice cream also mellows out nicely over time in the freezer.
- If you don’t want to make the cake, try the ice cream with the Chocolate Sauce.
- I can also imagine this ice cream with a light caramel drizzle.
- The high ratio of sugar to butter in the cake recipe requires you to cream the mixture for about 6 to 7 minutes until it is light in color and fluffy in texture. At first you’ll wonder how it’s going to come together but it will. Honest!
- I added 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon to the cake recipe in keeping with the theme.


Ancho Ice Cream with Dark Chocolate Cake

Ancho Ice Cream

1 1/2 C whole milk
2/3 C sugar
pinch salt
5 yolks
1 1/2 C heavy cream, chilled
1/2 t vanilla extract
1 t Ancho chile powder, to taste
1/4 t – 1/2 t chipotle chile powder, to taste

Combine the milk, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat slowly over low heat, until the sugar is dissolved and the milk is steaming a bit, stirring to fully combine.

Whisk the yolks in another bowl.

Take off the heat and add some of the hot liquid into the egg yolks. Whisk constantly to combine and temper the two elements. Add the remaining milk and whisk thoroughly. Return to the saucepan and cook on low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof rubber spatula until it begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon, leaving a clean trace.

Remove from heat and strain into the cold heavy cream, whisking to mix and cool. Add the vanilla extract and the chile powders, tasting as you go. Cover and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Freeze in your ice cream maker. Pour into a clean airtight container, press a piece of plastic into the surface, cover and place in the freezer to firm up.

Devil’s Food Cake
adapted from The Simple Art of Perfect Baking by Flo Braker

Makes 1 8” cake

1 C cake flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/8 t salt
1/4 t cinnamon (optional)
1/4 C cocoa powder
1/4 C lukewarm water
2 oz (4 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/2 C brown sugar
1 t vanilla
1 egg @ room temperature
1/4 C buttermilk @ room temperature
1/4 C water

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Prepare an 8” cake pan with butter, parchment and a very light dusting of flour.

Sift together flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon.
Whisk cocoa and water together until thoroughly blended.
Combine buttermilk, vanilla and water.

Cream butter and slowly add sugars. Cream mixture until light and fluffy, about 6 to 7 minutes on a stand mixer. Stop and scrape down the bowl at regular intervals.
Add egg and blend well. Scrape down the bowl.
Add cocoa mixture and combine thoroughly.
Gently add dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Stop mixing just before it is fully blended and finish by folding gently with a rubber spatula until there are no streaks. Be careful not to over mix. Pour into prepared pan and smooth batter evenly.

Bake @ 350 for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering. Cool 10 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife around the edges to loosen and turn out the cake. Cool completely.

Chocolate Sauce

1 C water
3/4 C sugar
3/4 C cocoa
1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C heavy cream
1/4 t salt, to taste

Bring water and sugar to a boil to dissolve. Add cocoa and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil for about 3 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent scorching. Once it has thickened, remove from heat and add vanilla and cream. Add salt to taste. Cool.

Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince

I always look forward to quince season. There’s something about the process of watching this oddly shaped and textured fruit transform into the most delectable and uniquely flavored rosy compote that is so interesting and enjoyable. Whether it's poached fruit, jam or membrillo, quince arrives just at the time we need it as a lot of the stone fruit of summer quietly escapes our grasp for another year.

I was just gifted with a bounty of fresh pineapple quince. An old friend introduced me to a new friend who has a tree in his back yard. It seems unusually early in the season but I’m more than thrilled. The aroma is transformative and lingers for days on end.

Cheese flan is somewhere along the spectrum of custard and cheesecake. It’s found in Latin culture but is usually prepared using cream cheese and evaporated milk. For this preparation, I decided to use some goat cheese to add a layer of complexity that I thought would go well with the poached quince. For the liquid I use reduced ratios of wet ingredients and heavy cream and some Muscat wine. The result is a kind of dense but creamy custard that really delivers an incredible pop of flavor. The light caramel complements the quince and presents a nice counterpoint for the goat cheese.

The quince takes some time to peel and poach, but the reward is tremendous. The flan is very easy and quick to prepare and bakes in 25 – 30 minutes. The flavors of both the flan and the fruit ripen overnight. If you do this in two steps, it will seem like no work at all. What you will have is a great celebration of this beautiful autumn.


Bench notes:
- As always, be very careful when working with caramel. Caramel burns really hurt, so always protect your hands and arms. As it reaches the right color, pour it into the ramekins and use a mitt or towel to carefully swirl just for a moment. The caramel does not have to go up the sides of the ramekin more than a little bit.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into quince. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- I keep the poaching liquid for the quince very simple so the true flavor comes forward without competing with the flan and the caramel. The syrup left over from the quince can be used to flavor drinks or drizzle over ice cream. You can also use it as a base to make sorbet or ice cream.
- If you can’t find an inexpensive Sauternes or Muscat, use a Monbazillac or Viognier or other favorite white wine that has a very slight sweet edge.
- Don't be tempted to bake it much longer than the recommended time. They will firm up as they cool. The baked flans rest overnight in the refrigerator to better create the liquid caramel sauce. The sugar has a chance to liquefy and they are easier to unmold. Once they are unmolded, let the flans sit for awhile until they can be served at room temperature. I’ve also eaten them a couple of days later straight out of the refrigerator. They are completely different – very dense with a mellow cheesy flavor. Also really delicious but in a different way!
- I’ve also made this flan base and steeped it overnight with a pinch of rosemary. The next day, I strain it out, bake and serve with quince, fresh fig or pear compote. It would also be delicious with an apple sauté.


Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince
Makes 4 servings using 3 1/4” diameter ramekins

3/4 C sugar
1/4 C water

4 oz goat cheese
4 oz cream cheese
1/3 C sugar
pinch salt
1/3 C cream
1/4 C white wine, such as Beaumes de Venise Muscat, Sauternes, Viognier or Monbazillac
2 eggs

Prepare caramel by placing sugar and water over medium high heat. If the sugar spatters up the sides of the pan, brush down the sides of the pot with a brush dipped in water. Cook the caramel until it is a medium amber. Take off the heat and wait a few seconds until it darkens a bit more on its own. Pour enough into the ramekins to coat the bottom and swirl just a bit up the sides.

In a food processor, blend goat cheese, cream cheese, sugar, salt, cream, wine and for just a minute or so. Pulse just until thoroughly blended. Pour into prepared ramekins.

Bake in water bath @ 325 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool and chill overnight.

To unmold, set the ramekins in about an inch of water that has been simmered and taken off the heat. Leave them there for about a minute. Remove them and run a very thin knife blade or small offset spatula around the rim. Invert onto a serving plate and give it a good tap. It should slip right out along with the liquefied caramel sauce. Serve at room temperature with poached quince.

Poached Quince

2 – 3 quince
2 C water
3/4 C sugar
juice of 1 lemon

Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Take off heat and add the lemon juice. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon syrup to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and syrup to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the quince are tender and have turned a deep pinkish orange. Cool and transfer to a clean airtight container and chill.

Saffron Ice Cream with Figs and Orange Gastrique

I seem to be making quite a lot of ice cream and sorbets this season. The weather definitely calls for it but I also find it a very fun and delicious medium for so many different flavors and textures and combinations.

We've enjoyed saffron in paella, bouillabaisse and in some desserts. It's such an intriguing and elusive spice, the tiniest pinch goes a long way. Saffron traces back to ancient Mediterranean civilizations where it was used as a perfume, medicine, dye and divine offering. It also flourished throughout Asia and found its way to Pennsylvania in the 1700s by way of Europe. Iran, Spain and India are now the major producers, with Iran producing the most intense variety.

This ice cream is one of my favorites. It’s rich without being heavy, very flavorful without being extreme and incredibly soothing and satisfying. It contains no eggs and does not require the making of custard. The ingredients are simply whisked together and chilled. It’s a cinch to make.

I also happened to have some super ripe figs that were just about ready to blow so I made an orange gastrique and served the ice cream with drizzled figs. Very, very end-of-summer-ish. Get your saffron on!


Bench notes:
- Buy saffron in small quantities, pack it in an airtight container and store in a cool dark place.

Saffron Ice Cream

1 C heavy cream
scant 1/4 t saffron threads, loosely packed
1 1/2 C buttermilk
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
pinch of salt
1 T lemon juice, to taste

Bring the cream to a slow simmer, take off the heat and add the saffron threads to bloom the flavor. Cool the saffron cream.

Whisk the saffron cream and buttermilk together. Add the sugar, pinch of salt and the lemon juice, to taste. Adjust the sugar to your taste if you'd like a sweeter ice cream. Chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Freeze according to your machine’s instructions. Pour into a clean airtight container. Put a piece of plastic wrap on the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

Orange Gastrique

1/2 C orange juice
2 T sugar
2 T balsamic vinegar

1 pint fresh figs

Combine orange juice, sugar and vinegar in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring just to a boil and reduce, turning the heat down to medium-low. Continue cooking until it thickens and is reduced by about half. The mixture will continue to thicken as it cools.

Chocolate Cake with Spiced Cherry Compote

Cherry season is here! Cherries are now everywhere and their bright red color beckons. They’re so beautiful, juicy and delicious, it’s impossible to resist them. Time to make all those incredible cherry desserts we’ve been waiting so patiently to create and consume.

I love this cherry compote. It’s got lots of cherry richness, just enough red wine and just enough spice to make it an incomparably superb accompaniment to ice cream, panna cotta, cheesecake or chocolate cake. Since I had some Devil’s Food Cake left over from another experiment, I decided to use it to dress up the cherries along with some gooey dark chocolate sauce.

This is an incredible dessert with a great combination of complementary flavors. The Devil’s Food Cake comes from Flo Braker and is one of the most delicious and tender cakes you’ll ever bake. All of the ingredients are in perfect balance so the flavor and moisture are supreme. Once you bake this cake it will become part of your permanent repertoire. The deep dark Chocolate Sauce delivers an interesting sensory contrast to the light delicate cake and the rich fruit of the Cherry Compote. I hope you have the chance to make this soon while cherries are dancing across our shelves.


Bench notes:
- I used a cabernet sauvignon for the Cherry Compote. You can also go with a fruity zinfandel.
- If you don’t have crème de cassis for the compote, you can substitute your favorite tawny or ruby port.
- The high ratio of sugar to butter in the cake recipe requires you to cream the mixture for about 6 to 7 minutes until it is light in color and fluffy in texture. At first you’ll wonder how it’s going to come together but it will. Honest!
- Double the recipe for the Devil’s Food Cake, add your favorite frosting and you have a fabulous layer cake.
- The Chocolate Sauce will keep refrigerated for several days.



Chocolate Cake with Spiced Cherry Compote
Makes 8 servings

Devils’s Food Cake
adapted from The Simple Art of Perfect Baking by Flo Braker
Makes 1 8” cake

1 C cake flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/8 t salt
1/4 C cocoa powder
1/4 C lukewarm water
2 oz (4 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/2 C brown sugar
1 egg @ room temperature
1/4 C buttermilk @ room temperature
1 t vanilla
1/4 C water

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Prepare an 8” x 3" cake pan with butter, parchment and a light dusting of flour.

Sift together flour, baking soda and salt.
Whisk cocoa and water together until thoroughly blended.
Combine buttermilk, vanilla and water.

Cream butter and slowly add sugars. Cream mixture until light and fluffy, about 6 to 7 minutes on a stand mixer. Stop and scrape down the bowl at regular intervals.
Add egg and blend well. Scrape down the bowl.
Add cocoa mixture and combine thoroughly.
Gently add dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Stop mixing just before it is fully blended and finish by folding gently with a rubber spatula until there are no streaks. Be careful not to overmix. Pour into prepared pan and smooth batter evenly.

Bake @ 350 for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering. Cool 10 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife around the edges to loosen and turn out the cake. Cool completely.

Spiced Cherry Compote

3 C red wine
3 T crème de cassis
1 C + 3 T sugar
2 T fresh lemon juice
1 star anise
6 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 lbs fresh cherries, pitted

Combine all the ingredients except for the cherries in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a slow simmer. Add the cherries and simmer on low heat until the liquid is syrupy and has reduced, about 30 minutes. Remove star anise, vanilla bean, bay leaf and peppercorns. Cool.

Chocolate Sauce

1 C water
3/4 C sugar
3/4 C cocoa
1/4 t salt, to taste
1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C heavy cream

Bring water and sugar to a boil to dissolve. Add cocoa and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil for about 3 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent scorching. Once it has thickened, remove from heat and add vanilla and cream. Add salt to taste. Cool.

Serve the cake with a glaze of Chocolate Sauce and garnish with Cherry Compote.

Apple of My Eye

It’s a very happy circumstance that there are so many fantastic apple desserts in the world. Some have become great classics and others are being dreamed up every day in professional kitchens around the globe. I think Americans are particularly fond of apples and we tend not to stray too far from the classics because they’re so ubiquitous and delicious. But, hold on! Apple of my Eye is a mouthwatering surprise created by the incomparable Elizabeth Falkner.

In addition to being a celebrated pastry chef, Elizabeth is a fearless entrepreneur. She operates Citizen Cake in San Francisco as well as several other venues, including Citizen Cupcake, a Citizen Cake Kiosk in SOMA and the new Orson. I had the opportunity to intern at Citizen Cake right after finishing pastry school and it was a real treat. First of all, the pastry kitchen was huge and spotless. The worktable was in the center of the room so the staff faced one another instead of standing in a line. For a beginner, it was a good place to start. Elizabeth is a gracious person with a very creative spirit. She enjoys herself tremendously and it shows in everything she does.

I must say I was not prepared for how completely delicious this dessert is. I was very intrigued when I first saw the recipe because of my love of apples, cinnamon, balsamic, cheese. All of the elements sounded good but I was very curious about how they would all work together. So I set out to find out and let me tell you, the results are utterly delectable. Elizabeth takes the best of compatible flavors and combines them seamlessly. The caramelized apples have a bright freshness and a semi-soft texture. The Cheddar Crumble streusel adds not only texture but a slight salty edge. The Cinnamon Ice Cream rounds out the dessert with a creamy richness and perfect level of spice. The apple gastrique takes on the deep and dramatic hue of the balsamic and is a wondrous crowning touch, absolutely amazing. I enjoyed every note of this brilliant composition.

This dessert is definitely off the beaten track. But wow, is it incredibly interesting and satisfying. Elizabeth has said she started out to do a riff on Tarte Tatin. However, except for the caramelized apples, it is absolutely different. If you’re up for a new twist on traditional apple desserts, venture out and try this. You’ll be thinking about it long after that last lovin’ spoonful.


Bench notes:
- I've presented the recipe as published, but I personally would actually change the proportions of the components. I would suggest more apples, probably nearly twice the amount, which would also entail doubling the caramel. The Cheddar Crumbles recipe makes an enormous amount and I would halve that. And I would triple the recipe for the apple balsamic gastrique. It’s too delicious to use sparingly. It would also taste mind-numbingly delicious on caramel ice cream or chocolate. YIKES.
- You can make the ice cream a couple of days ahead. The Cheddar Crumbles will keep in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Prepare the apples just before serving.
- I don’t know if there is any good commercial Cinnamon Ice Cream out there to recommend if you don’t want to make it, but it’s indispensable to this dish. Maybe you have a local purveyor who carries it.
- I used a nice Bravo White Cheddar and it was perfect.


Apple of My Eye
adapted from Demolition Desserts by Elizabeth Falkner
Serves 4

1/2 C sugar
1 T fresh lemon juice
2 large (about 1 lb) Granny Smith apples
1/2 t pure vanilla extract
1/4 t coarse salt

1/2 C apple juice
2 T sugar
2 T balsamic vinegar

Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe below)
Cheddar Crumbles (recipe below)

Peel, core and cut the apples into 1" cubes.

Combine 1/2 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons water and lemon juice in a medium skillet. Make a caramel by cooking on high heat without stirring until sugar has dissolved and begins to take on the color of dark amber, about 4 to 5 minutes. Slowly tilt the skillet back and forth or swirl gently if sugar is darkening unevenly.

Remove from heat as soon as it starts to reach the right color and carefully add the apple cubes in a single layer. Return the skillet to medium heat and let the apples simmer in the caramel until they slowly begin to darken and absorb the caramel, about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and sprinkle with vanilla and salt. Let stand, without stirring or moving apples, until all the caramel has been absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes.

Combine apple juice, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring just to a boil and reduce, turning the heat down to medium-low. Continue cooking until it thickens and is reduced by half, about 20 minutes. The mixture will continue to thicken as it cools.

Cinnamon Ice Cream

1 C milk
2 C heavy cream
1/2 C sugar
1 stick cinnamon
1/2 t ground cinnamon
5 egg yolks
1/2 t vanilla extract

Warm the milk, cream and sugar with both kinds of cinnamon. Do not let the mixture boil. Turn off the heat and steep the spices for about 15 minutes or until you have the right flavor, tasting as you go.

Whisk eggs yolks and add some of the warm milk to temper the mixture, stirring constantly. Pour into the remaining milk, whisk and return to low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the custard coats the back of a spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track. Strain immediately into a clean container. Cool and chill thoroughly. If you want a stronger cinnamon flavor, leave the cinnamon stick in the custard.

Remove cinnamon stick and freeze according to your machine’s directions. Pour into a clean container, press a piece of plastic wrap over the surface and place in your freezer to firm up.

Cheddar Crumbles
Makes about 2 1/2 cups

1 C all-purpose flour
1/2 C plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 C confectioner's sugar
1 t coarse salt
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
1/4 t paprika
6 oz (1 1/2 sticks) butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
1/2 C coarsely chopped pecans
4 oz sharp white cheddar cheese, grated (about 2 C)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

Mix together flour, cornstarch, confectioner's sugar, salt, pepper, and paprika. Add the butter and blend until the mixture is crumbly. Sprinkle the pecans and grated cheese over the mixture and gently toss to combine. Distribute evenly on the baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn crumbles with a spatula and continue baking until crumbles are golden and cheese is crisp, about 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

To serve, place the apples on each place with a scoop of ice cream. Add a sprinkle of the cheddar cheese streusel to the side. Drizzle the apple-balsamic reduction on the plate or directly over the ice cream. Serve immediately.

Savor the apple joy.

Nectarines with Gingersnaps and Mascarpone Cream

Nectarines are peaking right now. They are incredibly delicate and delicious. Their deep crimson complexion softened by a wonderful hint of peachiness is irresistible. They are just the right sweetness and must be eaten the moment they ripen for optimum pleasure. Walk by a fresh display and see if you can resist their gorgeousness.

I was thinking about a way to keep the fresh juicy quality of nectarines in tact while adding a spicy flavor profile. I decided to recline them on a bed of mascarpone cream slathered on a gingersnap. Once assembled, the nectarines are bathed in a wash of caramel to complement the fruit and the not very sweet but very spicy cookie. The mascarpone creates a soft pillow of lemony creaminess to bridge all the elements in a simple yet very satisfying way.

The gingersnap cookie comes from Chez Panisse, where they are sliced in very thin slivers, topped with coarse sugar and might accompany lime sherbet or passionfruit ice cream. In addition to the usual ground ginger, there is cinnamon and a good measure of black pepper to warm the palate. The mascarpone cream is blended with a bit of sugar, plain yogurt and lemon zest to brighten the entire assemblage. The small stream of bittersweet caramel adds only a hint of gooiness.

This is another one of those summer desserts that requires very little fuss. It’s light enough to indulge without care and yet interesting enough to satisfy the quest for an elegant fresh fruit treat.


Bench notes:
- The gingersnaps are not very sweet. When baking just as a cookie, coat the tops of them with coarse sugar before baking. Check them carefully to be sure the edges do not burn.
- The yogurt should be full fat. If it’s nonfat, I add 2 T of cream to smooth it out. You can substitute sour cream for the yogurt for more richness and body. Taste to see if you need to adjust the sugar.
- This would also be good with bananas.



Nectarines with Gingersnaps and Mascarpone Cream

8 Gingersnap Cookies, recipe below
Mascarpone Cream, recipe below
3 nectarines, sliced
Caramel, recipe below

Gingersnaps
adapted from The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters
Makes about 40 2” cookies

2 C flour
1 1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
2 t ground cinnamon
1 1/2 t ground ginger
1/2 t ground black pepper
5 1/2 oz (11 T) butter @ room temperature
2/3 C sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract
1/4 C mild molasses
1 egg @ room temperature

Sift the dry ingredients together.
Beat the butter until fluffy.
Add the sugar and beat until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Add the vanilla, molasses and combine. Add the egg.
Add the dry ingredients and mix just until blended.
Flour your hands and lightly dust a piece of parchment paper. Place dough on the parchment paper. Roll the dough until it’s about 2" in diameter. Remove excess flour and roll up the cookie log in the parchment paper. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate until very firm or freeze.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Slice into a 1/4" cookies with a sharp knife. Press into a bowl of coarse sugar and place 12 on a baking sheet lined with a silpat or parchment.
Bake for 10 minutes, rotating the baking sheets at the 5 minute mark.
Cool and store in an air-tight container.

Mascarpone Cream

8 oz mascarpone @ room temperature
1/4 C + 2 T plain yogurt
3 - 4 T sugar, to taste
zest of 1 lemon

Combine all ingredients and chill.

Caramel

1/4 C water
1 C sugar
1/4 C hot water

Bring 1/4 C water and sugar to a boil. Cook for 3-4 minutes until the mixture begins to turn a medium amber color. You will be able to begin to smell the flavor. Pull off the heat and watch as it continues to darken. When it nears the right color, add the 1/4 hot water to stop the cooking, holding the pan away from you as it might sputter. Swirl the pan to combine and until it reaches the desired color. Pour into another heatproof bowl to cool to room temperature.

To assemble: Place a Gingersnap on a plate and dollop with Mascarpone Cream. Top with slices of fresh ripe nectarine. Drizzle with caramel.