Friday, February 13, 2015

Oatmeal Almond & Chocolate Sandwich Cookies


I’m a huge fan of San Francisco pastry chef, Emily Luchetti.  Her recipes are meticulous and trustworthy and the results are always delicious.  I still remember an almond cake with quince I enjoyed at one of her venues many years ago.  It was absolutely fabulous.  I love her celebration of seasonal ingredients and sense of balance when it comes to fat and sugar levels. 

Last summer, Emily launched #dessertworthy, a project intended to start a conversation about our sugar consumption and our health with an emphasis on making sure that when we choose to consume pastries and desserts, we select only the very best examples that ensure an incredible taste experience, one that is worthy of our calorie intake.  It may seem odd to see a pastry chef talk about calories but it’s really what most of the people I know in the profession are really invested in as we become more aware of how important it is to develop a lifestyle that includes a balanced diet full of vegetables and fruit, whole grains and lean protein.  So it's really just about mindfulness.  Emily writes:

“It might seem counterintuitive for me, a pastry chef, to start this conversation but if not me then who? We need to change the way Americans are consuming dessert. This isn’t about forcing people to eat “healthy” desserts. It’s a movement to get people to reduce the amount of sugar and fat they consume and recognize which desserts are worth enjoying, which ones aren’t and when. Considering the amount of food those of us in the food business are surrounded by every day we eat pretty healthily. If we can do it the public can do it too.”

In my own work, I’ve always strived to emphasize flavor and keep the fat and sugar content just at the level where they provide sumptuous texture without masking other ingredients.  It’s something I learned from some of the pastry chefs I worked with and for whom I hold the highest regard.  I thought of Emily’s project a few days ago when I saw a recipe for pound cake that looked delicious but called for 12 oz of butter, 8 oz of cream cheese, 3 cups of sugar, 3 cups of flour and 6 eggs, among other things.  Honestly, I can’t even fathom that.  So Emily’s project resonates with me.  You can follow her on twitterInstagram and Facebook. 

This Oatmeal Almond & Chocolate Sandwich Cookie is a combination of some very basic ingredients that I think are in good proportion.  The oatmeal and almonds are ground with a mix of all-purpose and whole wheat flour.  It’s sandwiched with a dab of good dark chocolate.  And it’s constructed for maximum pleasure, so please do enjoy every bite!


Bench notes:
- I use old-fashioned oats in this recipe.
- I prefer sliced almonds rather than whole because they seem to grind finer in a food processor.
- I’m kind of a freak about chilling cookie dough.  It helps cookies hold their shape during baking. 
- If you prefer, roll the dough into logs.  Chill thoroughly or freeze.  Slice about 1/4” thick and bake.
- Add a slight pinch of good salt to the surface before baking if you enjoy a salty cookie.
- I like bittersweet chocolate with this cookie but you can use semisweet or a combination of both.
- Alternatively, fill the cookies with a small dab of your favorite jam.
- Best "something different" cheesecake ever, Emily Luchetti's Goat Cheese Cake.


Oatmeal Almond & Chocolate Sandwich Cookies
Makes about 20 sandwich cookies                    

1 cup (5 oz) all-purpose flour                   
1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz) whole wheat flour
3/4 cup (2 1/4 oz) oatmeal
3/4 cup (2 1/4 oz) sliced almonds
1 cup (7 oz) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) dark brown sugar, packed
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 oz (16 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

6 oz bittersweet chocolate                                    
3 oz (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter

Place both flours, oatmeal, almonds, both sugars and salt in the bowl of a food processor.  Process until the oatmeal and nuts are finely ground.

Cut the cold butter into small 1/2" cubes and add to the flour and nut mixture.  Process until the mixture looks like coarse meal.  Combine the egg, vanilla and almond extracts and add.  Process until the dough starts to form larger clumps around the center of the machine and holds together when pinched.

Divide the dough in half and place each portion on a piece of plastic wrap.  Put another piece of plastic wrap over the top of each portion of dough and flatten into discs.  Using a rolling pin, roll out each disc of dough between the two sheets of plastic wrap to about a 3/8” thickness.  Slide onto a baking sheet and chill thoroughly.

When the dough is thoroughly chilled, peel off the plastic wrap from both sides and cut out cookies using a 2 1/2" cookie cutter.  Gently re-roll scraps for additional cookies.  Chill while the oven heats up.

Heat oven to 350 degrees F.  Line baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Place 12 cookies per baking sheet.   Bake until just lightly browned around the edges, about 10 - 12 minutes, rotating the baking pans halfway through to ensure even baking.  Place the pans on a wire rack to cool completely.

Chop the chocolate into very small pieces. Melt butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl placed over a pot with an inch or two of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn’t touching the water. Whisk to thoroughly combine. Remove from heat and let cool for about 10 minutes or so.

Spread a dollop of chocolate on the underside of half the cookies.  Top with remaining halves.  

Friday, February 6, 2015

Date Walnut Chocolate Slices


I’m pretty sure people who say they don’t like dates have never tasted a Medjool.  There are several varieties of dates but Medjools have come into fashion in the last decade because they are large, soft, moist and plump with more of a caramel overtone.

Southern European countries primarily consume the Deglet Noor variety as a result of trade with Tunisia and Algeria, where 90% of Deglet Noors are produced.  The United States and Israel are the primary exporters of Medjool dates.  The California Coachella Valley produces 70% of the Medjool crop in the U.S., which all began with offshoots brought from the Bou Denib Oasis in French Morocco in 1927.  The California season runs from the end of August to the end of November but dates keep very well and are enjoyed any time of the year.

These pastry slices take full advantage of the wonderful marriage of dates, walnuts and chocolate.  I simmer Medjools with coffee and a hint of cinnamon and orange zest until they become a chunky paste.  The walnut pastry dough is borrowed from Rose Levy Berenbaum and is very easy to work with in this application.  

The combination of these flavors and textures are a particularly fun way to savor our prized Medjool dates.  Serve a slice perhaps with a small tip of Rainwater Madeira or a strong cup of your favorite java. 


Bench notes:
- Lightly toast the walnuts at 350 degrees F for about 8 - 10 minutes or until they just start to turn golden and give off a light toasty aroma.  Watch them closely so they don’t burn and become bitter.
- Berenbaum advises against substituting almonds (too hard) or pistachios (too soft) for the walnuts in the pastry dough.
- The pastry dough has less sugar and less butter to make it less fragile and easier to handle.  The walnuts in the dough should be finely ground to make handing and rolling the dough easy peasy.
- After chilling, let the dough sit at room temperature for a few minutes. The dough is ready to roll out if it doesn’t crack when you try to roll it out.  
- I think the dough is easy to work with but if you find it softens too much, chill it just long enough to let it firm it up but still be pliable.  I didn’t need a lot of flour to roll it out but be sure to use enough so the dough isn’t sticking.  Use a pastry brush to dust off any excess flour remaining on the surface of the pastry. 
- You can prepare the pastry and/or the filling separately a day or two ahead and store in your refrigerator.  If you make the filling ahead, leave out the walnuts to prevent them from softening.  Add them when you’re ready to assemble.
- You may sometimes see a white powdery film forming on the surface of dates. This is due to their high level of natural sugar and is not a cause for alarm. It’s just sugar crystal formation. You can warm them in the oven or steam them and the crystals will dissolve.
- If you’re a date lover, you’ll enjoy Roasted Dates with Sherry and Spices.  I like to serve them with a cheese course.  And there's a recipe for Oatmeal Chocolate Date Bars in The Global Pastry Table.
- This pastry dough is also delicious fashioned into a Cranberry Walnut Crostata.


Date Walnut Chocolate Slices
Walnut Pastry Dough adapted from Pie and Pastry Bible by Rose Levy Berenbaum
Makes 12 slices

Walnut Pastry Dough
1 3/4 oz (1/2 cup) toasted walnuts, divided
1 cup (5 oz) flour
1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 oz (4 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter
1 egg yolk
3 tablespoons (1 1/2 oz) ice water

Date Filling
5 1/2 oz (about 10 – 11) Medjool dates
1/2 cup (4 oz) coffee
2 tablespoons (26 grams) dark brown sugar, packed
zest of half an orange
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons (3/4 oz) chocolate chips
1/4 cup (3/4 oz) toasted walnuts

Finishing 
1 egg + 1 tablespoon water + slight pinch of salt, for egg wash
1 tablespoon (13 grams) sugar + 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon, for dusting

For the pastry, subtract 2 tablespoons of walnuts from the 1/2 cup. Coarsely chop the 2 tablespoons into smallish pieces and combine with 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1/8 teaspoon of cinnamon.  Set aside as a garnish to sprinkle on top of the formed pastry before baking.

Place the flour, sugar, salt and remaining walnuts in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the nuts are finely ground into the flour. Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces, add and pulse until the texture looks like coarse meal with a few larger pieces of butter. Whisk together egg yolk & ice water. Add to dough mixture and pulse until it begins to come together in large clumps and there are no dry patches of flour.

Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic and form into small flattened rectangle, Wrap tightly and chill for 30 minutes or until firm enough to roll without sticking.

For the filling, pit the dates and remove the stem.  Coarsely chop and place in a saucepan with the coffee, brown sugar, orange zest and cinnamon.  Simmer on low heat for just a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until mixture is softened and the liquid is absorbed.  It will look like a loose paste.  Cool and fold in the chocolate chips and walnuts.

When ready to assemble the pastry, place the dough on a silpat or piece of parchment paper lightly dusted with flour.  Let it sit a few minutes to take off the chill. Roll into an 18” x 8” rectangle, carefully lifting it often and using a light dusting of flour as you go to prevent sticking.  Slide the silpat or parchment paper with the pastry dough onto a baking sheet and chill while the oven heats up.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  For the egg wash, combine the egg, water and salt.

Take the rolled out dough from the refrigerator and leave it on the baking sheet. Place it in front of you so the long side is closest to you.  Make a slight mark at the halfway point on the short side so you know where the fold will be.  Spread the filling evenly on the top half the rectangle, leaving a 1” border at the long top edge.  Brush the top border of the dough lightly with egg wash.  Fold the bottom half of the rectangle over and press the edges to seal. Turn up the edges to make a border and press lightly with the tines of a fork to seal.  Cut in half for easier handling and chill until the oven is ready.

Take a sharp knife and cut 6 slices in the top layer of each pastry.  Leave the pastries in tact and do not separate the slices.  Brush the tops lightly with egg wash (you'll only use a bit) and sprinkle with the reserved sugar-walnut-cinnamon mixture. 

Bake until the pastries are a light golden brown, about 25 – 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.  Cut into slices and serve. 

Friday, January 30, 2015

Corazón


Among the heart-shaped cookies, candies and cakes proliferating this time of year, one of my favorites is this Mexican chocolate shortbread cookie.  I can never resist the introduction of spice in pastry, so I put together a cookie that celebrates the lovely marriage of chocolate and spice with just a hint of chile. 

The use of the heart as a metaphor to express romantic love and affection comes from the Middle Ages and the days of Chaucer.  It was more directly popularized in the 19th century as a symbol for Valentine’s Day, which originated with the Feast of Saint Valentine, named for Valentinus, a Christian saint who performed weddings.  And let’s not forget Cupid, the son of Venus and the Greek god of attraction, whose arrows contain the prospect of uncontrollable desire.

Since chocolate, in all its refined sumptuousness, has come to evoke endless desire in our day, it seems appropriate that it, too, is a central part of our modern profession of love.  This cookie contains a good amount of cocoa, a measure of sweetness and enough butter to create a crispy, crumbly expression of love, no doubt a suitable object of desire.

Bench notes:
- This recipe calls for Dutched cocoa powder, which has a milder flavor, but I've also used natural cocoa powder.
- I use a 2 1/2” heart-shaped cookie cutter but use any shape or size you wish.  The yield may be different.  Just keep the size uniform so they bake evenly and keep a close eye on the baking time if they are much smaller. 
- Be careful not to overbake or the cookies will take on a bitterness.  Test for doneness by lightly nudging the side of a cookie with your fingertip.  If it moves without resistance, it’s done.  If you prefer, coat the cookies in sugar after removing from the oven and cooling a couple of minutes so you can see more clearly see how they’re baking.  Or bake one first as a test to see how long it takes to bake in your  own oven.
- If you enjoy Mexican chocolate flavors, try rich and creamy Mexican Chocolate Ice Cream.


Corazón
Makes fourteen 2 1/2 “ cookies

1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 oz) flour
1/2 cup (1 1/2 oz) Dutch-processed cocoa
1/4 teaspoon salt
heaping 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
6 oz (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter @ room temerpature
2/3 cup (4 3/4 oz) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup (3 1/2 oz) sugar + good pinch cinnamon, for dusting
           
Whisk flour, cocoa, salt and spices together. 

Beat the butter, sugar, and vanilla and almond extracts until creamy and smooth but not fluffy, about 1 minute.  Add the flour mixture and mix just until incorporated.  Be careful not to overmix.

Scrape the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap.  Cover with another sheet of plastic wrap and flatten the dough.  Roll it into an even, flat 1/4” thick disc. Slide onto a baking sheet or pizza pan and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.
           
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.  Line baking sheets with parchment or silpats.  Combine 1/2 cup sugar with a good pinch of cinnamon.

Peel off the plastic wrap from both sides of the cookie dough.  Cut out heart shaped cookies and dip them in cinnamon sugar to coat evenly.  Place on the baking sheet.  Bake in lower third of the oven for 20 - 22 minutes.   Cool pan on a wire rack. 

Friday, January 23, 2015

Maple Oat Pecan Madeleines


There are people who love cake but don’t like the commitment of baking one at home.  Sometimes too much cake on hand can be a problem.  Maybe that’s how and why cookies were invented?  And certainly that’s where madeleines come in.  They’re considered both a cookie and a wee little cake, a bit like financiers, chewy little nut cakes made with browned butter.  Leave it to the French.

Madeleines are prepared in the génoise sponge cake tradition and are usually offered at tea time.  The tiny edges of the cakes are crispy while the interior is soft and spongy.  In this version, I’ve used oats and pecans finely ground with flour for a more interesting texture and flavor.  And just because maple goes so well in this crowd, I added a taste of that as well.  I think it may have been a subliminal moment of granola worship. 

Since these only bake for 12 – 14 minutes or so, the oatmeal needs to be ground as finely as possible in a food processor so it blends with the flour.  Even so, there’s a whole grain-ish bite to them.  And just as they come out of the oven, I brush them lightly with a mixture of maple and butter to fortify the flavor.

Next time you long for a tiny cake with your warm beverage, try these madeleines.  And if they make too many to harbor in your household, do pass them around.

Bench notes:
- The eggs and sugar are beaten to the “ribbon stage,” which is a method of using a whisk to beat air into the mixture until thickened and tripled in volume.  You can test for the ribbon stage by stopping and lifting the whisk.  The batter should stream down from the whisk and form a cascading ribbon on the surface of the batter that holds for a few seconds.  I usually lift the beater about 6" and scrawl out my initials. If they hold for a moment by the time I've finished, it's ready.  I use a stand mixer.  If you're using a hand mixer, it will take a bit longer to get the eggs and sugar to the ribbon stage.
- For a light salty edge, use a slightly mounded 1/4 teaspoon of salt.
- Madeleines are best eaten the same day.



Maple Oat Pecan Madeleines
Makes 20 madeleines

1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz) flour                               
1/4 cup (3/4 oz) oats
2 tablespoons (1/2 oz) toasted pecans
1/2 teaspoon baking powder                   
1/4 teaspoon salt                                       
pinch nutmeg
3 oz (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (1 1/4 oz) maple syrup
2 large eggs
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar                                                    
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract                      

1 tablespoon oats, for garnish
1 1/2 tablespoons toasted pecans, finely chopped for garnish

3/4 oz (1 1/2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, for finishing
1 1/2 tablespoons maple syrup, for finishing

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.  Generously butter one madeleine mold pan and eight wells in a second pan.  Lightly dust with flour.

Place the flour, oats, pecans, baking powder, salt and pinch of nutmeg in the bowl of a food processor.  Process until the oats are finely ground. 

Melt the butter with the maple syrup and set aside to cool.

Whisk the eggs and sugar on high speed until thickened and the batter falls in ribbons when whisk is lifted, about 5 minutes.  Add vanilla and blend.  Fold in the flour mixture by hand with a rubber spatula in 3 additions.  Fold in one-third of the butter mixture until combined.  Fold in another third until blended and then fold in the remainder. 

Scoop the batter into the wells of prepared madeleine pans.  Garnish each one with a pinch of oats and pecans.  Bake until the cakes spring back when touched, about 12 – 13 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let them cool for 1 minute, then tilt the pans to dislodge them. 

Melt the 3/4 oz butter and the 1 1/2 tablespoons maple syrup together.  Stir to combine and brush on the garnished side of each madeleine.  Cool completely.

Friday, January 16, 2015

Chocolate Mint Cookies


I happened to see an article a few days ago about 3 new cookies the Girl Scouts have added to their collection: Toffee-tastic, a butter cookie with toffee bits that’s gluten-free; Rah-Rah Raisins, an oatmeal cookie with raisins and Greek yogurt chunks; and Trios, a peanut butter oatmeal cookie with chocolate chips that's gluten-free.  I also happened to read a piece about how the threat of crop pests or new disease along with our outsized demand for chocolate is making it difficult for suppliers to keep up with our habit.  So imagine a world without chocolate.  OK, had enough?  Here’s hoping that good precautions and robust crops will avert a chocolate crisis.  Yikes.  

Anyway, all this news about Girl Scout cookies and worries about chocolate production reminded me how much I like the combination of chocolate and mint, so I set about to make some Chocolate Mint Cookies.  These are simple cookies with ordinary ingredients in good combination to make when you want a tinge of cookie fun - a little bit of cookie, a little bit of chocolate and a little blast of mint.

Bench notes:
- I used natural, not dutched, cocoa powder in this recipe.
- You can re-roll scraps.  Just layer them as you go rather than gathering them up and squishing them into a ball.
- Cookie dough is much easier to handle and cut when thoroughly chilled.  They also hold their shape better.
- The cookies aren't super sweet so I suggest semisweet chocolate for coating.  Finely chop the chocolate so it melts evenly and quickly without overheating.
- When melting chocolate, the water in the bain marie should be barely simmering.  When chocolate gets too hot, it becomes grainy and may seize.
- You can either dip the cookies or use a small offset spatula to spread the chocolate.
- If you want to dip the whole cookie in chocolate, double the recipe for the coating.
- If you’re crazy about Samoas Girl Scout cookies, here’s my take on those flavors in the form of Samoas Ice Cream.
- And speaking of oatmeal and peanut butter, these are really good: Oatmeal Peanut Butter Sandwich Cookies.  And if you like toffee bits in your cookies, this Almond Toffee Shortbread will certainly cheer you up.  For a bold and delicious hit of mint and chocolate, try Mint Chocolate Ice Cream Cake.


Chocolate Mint Cookies
Makes about 20 cookies

1 1/4 cups (6 1/4 oz) flour                                                         
1/2 cup (1 1/2 oz) cocoa powder                                    
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (6 1/4 oz) sugar                                                                      
1/4 teaspoon salt                                                                                       
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
4 oz (8 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter
1 egg                                     
1 tablespoon milk                                                                                      
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract                                                                                  
1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract
                                                                       
4 oz semisweet (54%) chocolate
2 oz (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract

Place the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, salt and baking soda in the bowl of a food processor and process until thoroughly mixed. Cut the butter into 1/2” pieces and add. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.  Combine the egg, milk and vanilla and peppermint extracts.  Add and pulse the food processor just until the cookie dough starts to form clumps and holds solidly together when pinched. 

Divide dough in half and place each on a piece of plastic wrap. Flatten the dough, cover each portion with another piece of plastic and roll out to a scant 1/4” thick circle or rectangle.  Place each one encased in plastic on top of each other on a baking sheet or pizza pan.  Chill thoroughly.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Line baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Remove the rolled out cookie dough from the refrigerator and carefully peel the plastic wrap off of both sides.  Cut out cookies with a 2 1/2” cookie cutter and place on prepared baking sheets.  Bake until the tops and edges are dry to the touch,  about 13 - 15 minutes.  Cool completely on a wire rack.  

Finely chop the chocolate and place with the butter in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of about 1" of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water.  As the mixture melts, stir to combine.  Add peppermint extract.  Remove from heat and cool for just a couple of minutes or so.  Dip each cookie in the chocolate for a nice thick coating, scraping the bottom of the cookie along the edge of the bowl to remove excess.  Place on a silpat or parchment lined baking sheet to dry.

Friday, January 9, 2015

Banana Walnut Scones


For most people, time has become a supreme luxury.  Time to linger over a delicious and wholesome breakfast, engage in fun or stimulating conversation, savor every last drop of your favorite freshly brewed coffee.  We are often in a rush from the moment we awaken to the moment we drop off to bed for the evening.  When we do find some extra time, we do our best to catch up on precious sleep, monitor the comings and goings of loved ones and perhaps even spend some good time in the kitchen.

Weekend brunch is a good way to remedy all this.  It’s a great time to relax and enjoy whatever promise the day may bring and prepare something fun and delicious that perhaps errs on the side of extreme pleasure.  For me, this can mean some wonderful freshly made granola, fruit and yeasted pastries, a very nice coffee cake, biscotti, some scones or warm biscuits. 

Today’s bake is a pretty simple but wholesome Banana Walnut Scone.  Yes, this is another opportunity to take those ripening bananas and do something productive!  It’s the usual scone mix of flour, sugar, leavening, butter and dairy to which I’ve added a couple of ripe bananas, a pinch of spice and molasses and some nuts.  Whips up in no time, leaving you to relax and proceed to enjoy every precious moment of your morning.

Bench notes:
- Make sure your brown sugar is lump free or it melts in pockets, leaving holes in your finished pastry.  To prevent lumps, store brown sugar in an airtight container or place a piece of bread or apple in the bag.  Some people say storing in a Ziploc bag in the freezer also works but I’ve never tried it.  You’d need to bring it to room temperature because excessive cold will discourage the baking properties of leavening or yeast.
- Do your best to handle the dough very little to ensure maximum tenderness.
- Scones are best enjoyed the same day.


Banana Walnut Scones
Makes 8 scones

2 cups (10 oz) flour                                    
3 tablespoons (39 grams) granulated sugar                                       
3 tablespoons (39 grams) dark brown sugar, packed                                               
2 teaspoons baking powder                                                                                
1/2 teaspoon baking soda                                                                                               
scant 1/2 teaspoon salt                                                                                                    
1 teaspoon cinnamon                                                       
pinch nutmeg
1 cup (about 2 medium) ripe bananas, coarsely mashed                
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz) cold buttermilk            
1 tablespoon (16 grams) molasses                                                                              
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 oz (6 tablespoons) unsalted cold butter                                             
1/2 cup (1 3/4 oz) walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
                       
1 oz (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted for brushing the tops
1 tablespoon sugar + pinch cinnamon, for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

Whisk the flour, granulated and brown sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices until completely blended. 

Mash the bananas, leaving some small lumps, and combine with the buttermilk, molasses and vanilla. 

Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add to the flour mixture.  Toss thoroughly to coat with flour.  Use your fingers to pinch the butter into small thin flakes about the size of a dime, tossing as you go to continue to coat the butter thoroughly with flour.  Make a well in the center and add the banana mixture and walnuts.  Stir gently with a fork until it starts to come together and the liquid seems fairly absorbed.  The dough will look a little shaggy.  Gather the loose and lumpy dough and knead it very gently just 2 or 3 times until it holds together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface.  Gather and gently pat together into a circle about 7” in diameter and about 1” thick.  Using a lightly floured bench scraper or sharp knife, cut the dough into 8 equal wedges.  Lift them with a metal spatula and transfer to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 2” apart.  Brush the tops with melted butter and sprinkle generously with cinnamon sugar.

Bake until firm to the touch and golden brown, about 14 - 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool.