Friday, August 23, 2013

Sour Cream Shortcakes with Berries




This week marks my blogiversary!  It was 6 years ago this week that I convinced myself to try this blogging thing.  I didn’t really have a specific strategy or long-term vision for this space.  I’d left the world of professional pastry kitchens to take a great 4-year assignment as an analyst consultant in my other chosen field, higher education administration.  But I started to miss the smell of flour and butter.  I began reading lots of blogs and I wondered if I could somehow produce a blog, too.  It seemed like everyone was having fun and I knew I had to give it a try.  I love technology but I had absolutely no idea how to create and administer a blog or how to use a camera.  I made up my mind to just jump in, determined to challenge my skills.  Well, lots and lots of cakes, cookies, tarts, custards, ice cream and a whole lot of other stuff later, I’m still here, posting my pastries each week.  I saw my blog go from zero to tens of thousands of readers every month.  So yeah, WOW, I did it!  And it's been interesting and satisfying in ways I never could have predicted.

I’ve kept the blog simple: no advertising or animated pop-ups and no fancy or complicated recipes or platings.  My passion for creating fun and delicious pastries and desserts along with having such a great audience of readers are what keep me in the game.  I’ve presented the stuff I think is most likely to elicit a swoon from those gathered at your table and it’s been a supreme pleasure to learn so much about this incredible medium.

So let’s celebrate this milestone with a must-have pastry of the season: shortcake!  This is a fairly basic recipe to which I’ve added a nice portion of sour cream for extra tenderness and a very slight tangy note.   It goes perfectly well with the season’s current crop of fresh fruit: bright berries, swoon-worthy peaches, juicy nectarines, tart plums and luscious figs.  Add a dollop of sweetened whipped cream or crème fraiche and it’s a pretty iconic and irresistible plate of summer goodness.   So, as we begin our sure and steady shift into an autumn that is lurking just around the corner, I recommend this to you as a celebration of the really good summer we've had, chock full of unusually terrific fruit.

I want to send a big note of thanks to all my readers and all the bloggers who have reached out to me over the years.  You inspire me.  I really appreciate all your emails and lovely feedback on my work.  Your kindness has been one of the greatest benefits of blogging.  And I love that many of my readers are from other corners of the world.   I thank you all for your interest and support.  I hope you’re having as much fun as I am.

OH, and one more thing.  Watch this space in early September.  I have a really fun and exciting announcement coming, one I hope you’ll enjoy.  Stay tuned!


Bench notes:
- There are just a few things to remember when mixing a biscuit or scone type dough. 1) Both the liquid and the butter must be very cold.  2) Once you add the cold butter, work fast to incorporate it into the flour so that it stays cold. You can use a pastry blender or your fingers to get the butter reduced down to pea-sized pieces. 3) When you add the liquid, use a fork to stir it together. It shouldn't take more than 10 or so rounds of stirring. The dough will look lumpy. 4) Lightly dust your work surface and your hands with flour. Place the dough on the work surface and pull it together with about 3 - 4 very light kneads. You don't want to overwork the dough but you also don't want a pile of clumps. So be gentle and you'll see it come together very quickly. 5) Pat the dough to form a round that's about 1 " thick. Using a biscuit or cookie cutter, press down to form the biscuits and lift straight up when you're done. To prevent sealing the edges of the biscuit, no twisting or turning the cutter.
- I use a 2 1/2” cutter.  The baked shortcakes expand to about 3 1/4”.  It's also fun to make smaller mini shortcakes for a party tray.  Just watch the baking time closely.
- I use a serrated knife and a sawing motion to cut the shortcakes in half.
- For the cream garnish, substitute 1/2 cup fraiche for half the heavy cream for a more complex flavor.
- Add a drop of good kirsch to the fruit or the cream garnish.
- Shortcakes are best eaten the same day.

 

Sour Cream Shortcakes with Berries
Makes 8 servings

2 cups (10 oz) flour                                                                      
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder                              
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt                                                  
4 oz (8 tablespoons) cold butter                        
1/2 cup (4 oz) cold sour cream
1/2 cup (4 oz) cold heavy cream         
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

melted butter, for brushing

1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
1 cup fresh raspberries
1 cup fresh blueberries
2 – 3 tablespoons (26 – 39 grams) sugar, to taste

1 cup (8 oz) heavy cream
1 tablespoon (13 grams) sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

Sift the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a bowl.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2-inch cubes and add, tossing thoroughly to coat all the pieces of butter with flour.   Using your fingers or a pastry blender, pinch and flatten the butter into small pieces until the mixture looks like coarse meal with some smaller pieces about the size of small peas.  Work quickly to keep the butter from warming up and softening.

Combine the sour cream, heavy cream, vanilla and almond extracts.  Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the cream mixture.  Using a fork, fluff the flour into the center.  Stir and turn the ingredients until large moist clumps form and you have a soft dough.

Dust your work surface and your hands very lightly with flour and turn out the dough. Give it a gentle kneading; about 3 - 4 turns should be enough to consolidate the dough. Pat it into a round about 1" thick.  Use a 2 1/2" cutter to form the shortcakes, pushing straight down and lifting straight up to cut rather than twisting.  Dip the cutter into some flour between each cut to prevent them from sticking.  Place the shortcakes on the prepared baking sheet. Gather the scraps and stack them. Gently press and pat them into a piece about 1" thick and cut out additional shortcakes.

Brush the tops lightly with melted butter. Bake until they are puffed and the bottoms are golden brown, about 12 - 14 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool. 

Combine the berries with the sugar and set aside for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time to distribute the juices.

When ready to assemble, whisk the heavy cream, sugar and vanilla until soft peaks form.  Cut the shortcakes in half and place the bottom halves on plates.  Dollop with whipped cream and strawberries.  Top with remaining biscuit halves.

Cheers!

Friday, August 16, 2013

Nectarine Crumb Tart


If you’re wondering what the difference is between a peach and a nectarine, it’s fairly superficial.  Peaches have fuzzy skins and nectarines have smooth ones.  Nectarines are also usually slightly smaller and sweeter.  But in terms of nutrition, nectarines provide twice the amount of vitamin A, a bit more vitamin C and a whole lot more potassium.

Red Lion nectarines, cultivated in California in the late 1980s, are considered among the best. They stay on the tree longer, so they are plump and juicy.  When selecting nectarines, look for a deep red blush but more importantly, they should have a golden orange glow with no green areas around the stem.  Store them at room temperature and they will continue to ripen.

This tart is a good showcase for ripe nectarines because there isn’t much to get in the way of their full flavor.  There’s a simple crust and a toasted crumb topping, just enough to sweeten each slice.  And of course you can substitute peaches!



Bench notes:
- I prefer room temperature fruit but if you prefer chilled, don't refrigerate a peach or nectarine until it's fully ripe or its flavor will be stunted and the texture may become mealy.
- This pastry dough comes together almost instantly.  Check it as you go to be sure you're not overmixing.  It's done when the dough looks a little bit like small curd cottage cheese.  When you gather it together to wrap, it smoothes out.
- The pastry dough can be made 1 - 2 days ahead and chilled.  Any longer than that and it starts to discolor and turn grey.
- The crumble can also be made and refrigerated 1 – 2 days ahead.
- Add a small handful of sliced almonds or finely chopped walnuts to the crumb topping flour mixture if you’d like more flavor and texture.
- Serve with sweetened whipped cream flavored with vanilla or almond extract or some good kirsch.
- If you love nectarines, try this Almond Dacquoise with Nectarines and Cream.



Nectarine Crumb Tart
Serves 6 - 8

Pastry Dough
1 cup (5 oz) flour
1 1/2 teaspoons (6 grams) sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 oz (6 tablespoons) cold butter
1/4 cup (2 oz) very cold water

Crumb Topping
1/4 cup (1 1/4 oz) flour                         
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (17 grams) granulated sugar                          
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (17 grams) dark brown sugar                      
pinch salt                 
1 1/2 oz (3 tablespoons) butter, melted                         

4 nectarines
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons (6 grams) cornstarch

To prepare the pastry dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces, add to the flour mixture and process for 5 seconds.  Add the water and pulse about 15 times. The dough will not look like a smooth dough but should look lumpy like cottage cheese.  Gather the dough and place on a piece of plastic wrap.  Gently press into a flattened rectangle and wrap tightly.  Chill the dough at least 30 minutes or overnight.

For the crumb topping, combine the flour, both sugars and salt in a bowl.  Melt the butter and add.  Use a fork to stir until the mixture clumps that hold together when pressed.  Using your fingers, pinch the mixture to form bits and pieces.   Chill until ready to use.

When you’re ready to roll out the dough, remove from the refrigerator and rest on a lightly floured piece of parchment paper or work surface for a few minutes so it can soften just a bit to prevent cracking.  Roll the dough out to about a 12" square and 1/8" thickness, gently lifting and moving the dough after each roll and keeping it lightly floured as needed.  When you have the desired size, brush off any excess flour.  Fold it in half and then again in half.  Center the folded corner of the dough in a 9" square tart pan.  Unfold it and work it into the corners, leaving an overhang on all four sides.  Chill while you prepare the fruit.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the nectarines in slices and remove the pit.  Place the slices in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice.  Combine the sugar and cornstarch and toss with the fruit to distribute evenly.

When the oven is ready, fill the tart shell with the fruit.  Sprinkle with the crumb topping.  Fold the sides over to form a border.  Brush the border of the dough with melted butter and dust with a light sprinkle of sugar.  

Bake until the dough and topping are browned and the fruit is bubbling, about 40 – 50 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool.

 


Friday, August 9, 2013

Fig Swirl Ice Cream


In the world of ice cream and sorbet, it’s anything goes.  An industry that used to be dominated by vanilla and chocolate and a few simple permutations is now all about imagination and adventure.  I’m usually pretty game to taste an ice cream that may seem weird at first mention only to be more than pleasantly surprised by the novelty.  In fact, last night at a restaurant where the extraordinarily talented Bill Corbett is Executive Pastry Chef, I was blissfully pleased with an exquisite dessert that consisted of roasted strawberries, ricotta mousse and celery sorbet.  Absolutely intriguing and incredibly delicious!

I’m also very excited to see that homemade ice cream is becoming more popular and people are experimenting to their heart’s content.  With so many great ice cream cookbooks out now and tons of playful ingredients, it’s hard not to want to join in all the fun. 

Although there’s nothing terribly wild or weird about today’s ice cream, it’s a good one to try to take full advantage of the season.  Since figs have a unique and delicious flavor that is subtle and tends to get lost in the richness of the other ice cream ingredients, I had to find a way to concentrate their flavor.  My solution was to simmer them in port with some sugar, orange peel and spice to produce a compote that I could pair with a fairly plain but tangy ice cream base.  To preserve the full flavor and richness of the fig compote, I swirled it into the ice cream base rather then combine the two together.  It's not an overly complex ice cream but definitely a really good seasonal enjoyment for fig lovers.



Bench notes:
- Choose figs that are soft and ripe.
- The port and the sugar in the fig compote sweeten and prevent the figs from becoming too icy in the freezer.  
- If you have about a 1/4 vanilla bean piece in your vanilla sugar jar, add that to the fig compote.  Maybe even toss in a few raspberries.
- I store ice cream in airtight containers that are not tall and deep so the ice cream can come to a scoop-able temperature fairly quickly.
- This would make a great ice cream sandwich with chocolate cookies.
- I was sort of tempted to try and work a small bit of blue cheese in this or some toasted almonds or walnuts.  Maybe next time!
- I use a very simple and affordable Cuisinart ice cream machine.  You can usually find it on sale somewhere.


Fig Swirl Ice Cream
Makes about 1 1/2 pints

1 cup (8 oz) heavy cream
1 cup (8 oz) sour cream
1/2 cup (4 oz) milk
1/2 cup (3 1/2 oz) dark brown sugar, packed
1 teaspoon lemon juice, to taste
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
pinch salt, to taste

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz) tawny or ruby port
1/4 cup (2 oz) water
2 tablespoons (26 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (26 grams) dark brown sugar, packed
2” strip of orange peel, pith removed
1/4 cinnamon stick
6 fresh ripe figs
1 teaspoon lemon juice

For the ice cream base, whisk together all the ingredients and place in an airtight container in the refrigerator until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.

For the fig compote, place the port, water, both sugars, orange peel and cinnamon in a saucepan and bring to a slow boil to dissolve the sugars.  Lower heat and simmer for about 15 minutes to reduce and concentrate the flavors.  Remove the stems from the figs and cut into bite-sized pieces.  Add figs and lemon juice to the port mixture and simmer until tender, about 5 – 8 minutes.   Remove the orange peel and cinnamon stick and cool completely.

Freeze the ice cream base in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer’s instructions.  Pour a third of the ice cream into a clean airtight container.  Layer half the fig mixture on top.  Pour another third of the ice cream and then layer the remaining figs.  Pour the remaining ice cream on top and use a knife to make 2 – 3 swirls.  Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface, cover and place in freezer to firm up.

Friday, August 2, 2013

Honey Almond Ice Cream with Peaches



I’ve been wanting to get back to making ice cream for a while and now that I have other projects completed, I am definitely in summertime ice cream prep mode.  Since I've established a permanent home for the bowl of my ice cream machine in my freezer, it's always possible to whip up a batch on a whim.   

I’ve been reading a lot lately about the plight of beestrying not to think too much about a future without them.  What began as an anomaly in 2006 has fully evolved into what is now known as colony collapse disorder.  Even though the latest data continue to show an alarming loss of bee hives, it's difficult to grasp that they are so endangered.  Let’s hope that science continues to grapple with this serious problem and that there is more of an ongoing commitment to sustainable agriculture in our future.  Bees are an essential element of a healthy natural food system.

So my thoughts have been resting on honey and what a miraculous thing it is.  This honey ice cream is a great way to appreciate its phenomenal flavor.  And since I also had some sumptuous peaches in my fruit bowl, it seemed natural to add some almonds to the ice cream for a flavor that would be supremely complimentary to them.  But instead of just adding the sliced almonds, I coated them with a bit of sugar and spice and toasted them for even more flavor and texture.

I love the result of this easy little experiment.  The honey is delicious here and the nuts really take it to a perfect level of satisfaction.  The ice cream is definitely wonderful on its own but especially good if you have any stone fruit or berries or fresh figs.  Or just a tiny touch of chocolate sauce.  You know the drill!!


Bench notes:
- You’ll have some leftover almonds but it won’t be a liability.
- If you’d rather leave the almonds plain, be sure to toast them in a single layer in a 350 degree oven for about 6 - 8 minutes.  Watch them closely as they will burn quickly. 
- Roast the peaches and the syrup in a baking dish that is not too large so the liquid doesn’t evaporate and burn during the roasting process.  How long you roast them will depend on their ripeness.
- If you have a 1/4 vanilla bean or other small pieces in your vanilla sugar jar, add to the honey and lemon peach syrup as it simmers.


Honey Almond Ice Cream with Roasted Peaches
Makes about 1 quart

Spiced Almonds
1 cup (3 oz) sliced almonds
1 egg white (2 tablespoons)
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cloves
pinch salt
1 1/2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar

Honey Ice Cream Base
2 cups (16 oz) heavy cream
1 1/2 cups (12 oz) milk
1/4 cup (2 oz) honey
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar    
pinch salt
2 teaspoons rum
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 – 2/3 cup spiced almonds

Roasted Peaches
4 fresh ripe peaches
1/2 cup (4 oz) water
1/4 cup (2 oz) honey
2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar
1 – 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, to taste

For the spiced almonds, preheat oven to 300 degrees. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment or a silpat.

Whisk the egg white until it’s frothy and opaque. Add spices and salt and whisk to combine. Toss in the sliced almonds and coat evenly. Sprinkle with sugar and toss to thoroughly coat the nuts.  Spread them on the baking sheet in a single layer.  Give them another light dusting of sugar.  Toast until they are dry and golden, about 20 – 25 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool completely.  Break up into small bite-sized pieces.

For the ice cream, pour the cream and milk into a saucepan and add the honey, sugar and salt.  Simmer over medium low heat until the sugar and honey are fully dissolved. Remove from heat and add the rum and the vanilla and almond extracts.  Whisk thoroughly and add a few more grains of salt, to taste.  Pour the mixture into an airtight container.  Chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker.  Fold in about 1/2 - 1/3 cup of the spiced almonds and pour into a clean airtight container.  Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface and cover with the lid.  Place in your freezer to firm up.

To prepare the peaches, preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place the water, honey and sugar in a saucepan and simmer for about 5 minutes until thoroughly dissolved. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice, to taste.

Halve and pit the peaches and arrange them cut side up in a shallow baking dish small enough to fit the peach halves without too much extra room.  Pour the honey lemon syrup over the peaches and roast until tender, about 30 minutes, basting and turning them over half way through.  

Scoop the ice cream into serving bowls and garnish with the peach halves. Spoon the warm poaching liquid over the fruit and serve right away.

Friday, July 26, 2013

Peach Cake


Yesterday I happened to see a reference to the fact that Christmas is only 152 days away and I suddenly lost my bearings.  Although it’s not hard to imagine the trays of cookies, the scent of pine and a chill in the air, I like to stay firmly planted in the present.  And, as I review my calendar for August, I realize another interesting moment is approaching, the 6th year anniversary of this blog.  Yikes!  While it’s true that most bloggers routinely hit a wall after two years, my intentions are still very much in tact.  So I just keep going week after week, fashioning the cream and the crumb.  I still love working and learning in my lab season after season, each with its own mood, sights and scents.  

For example, there’s this moment in the summertime when you walk into the kitchen and the intoxicating aroma of ripened peaches washes over you like the best perfume.  Their skins are dark red and they give just a bit to the touch.  They’re ready.

It’s my impression that the fruit in my region has been very good this year.  I only ran into a couple of mealy apricots but the rest of my purchases have been really stellar.  And so it is with these peaches.  They were beautifully ripe and I thought I’d use them to substitute in Thomas Keller’s Apple Cake from The French Laundry Cookbook.  The recipe is a pretty basic cake formula with fresh fruit slices pushed into the surface.  When you cut into it,  the orange red sunset hues of the peaches are revealed.  An easy cake for summer, the fruit bakes into a warm luscious texture.  

So my advice for the day is to seize the moment.   Before we head toward Christmas once again, pick up some peaches and immerse yourself in the joys of summer!!


Bench notes:
- Peaches should be ripe but not overripe or the cake will be soggy.
- I added 1 teaspoon of vanilla along with the milk.
- The recipe calls for baking the cake for 40 – 50 minutes but mine was done in just about 40 minutes, so check it on the early side.
- This cake would be nice served with a dollop of whipped cream flavored with almond extract or Amaretto.
- Keller’s recipe is an apple and cranberry cake served with a sweetened butter and cream sauce.


Peach Cake
based on Sally Schmitt’s Cranberry and Apple Kuchen with Hot Cream Sauce in Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook
Serves 8

2 – 3 (about 1 lb) fresh peaches

1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 oz) flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3 oz (6 tablespoons) butter @ room temperature
3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz) sugar
1 large egg
1/2 cup (4 oz) milk @ room temperature                                                           

3 tablespoons (29 grams) sugar
scant 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9" cake pan and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.

Cut the peaches in half and remove the pit.  Cut into 1/2” slices and set aside.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg.

Cream the butter and sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Add the egg and combine thoroughly.  Scrape down the bowl.  Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with half the milk, beginning and ending with flour.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Press the peach slices into the batter, skin side up, working around the pan in a circular pattern and leaving a little less than 1/2” above the batter. 

Combine the 3 tablespoons sugar with the cinnamon and sprinkle evenly on the surface of the cake.   Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 38 – 42 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool for ten minutes.  Run a thin bladed knife around the edge of the cake to loosen, then invert.  Peel off the parchment and invert again.  Cool. 

Friday, July 19, 2013

Vanilla Raspberry Semifreddo


If you love the light airiness of mousse and the creaminess of ice cream, then you’ll love the combination of the two, the Italian semifreddo.  It’s one of those desserts that doesn't require much effort to prepare and makes a nice presentation for a crowd. 

We appear to be deep into a summer heat wave across much of the nation and reaching out in search of something cold to refresh is the order of the day.  Ice cream fills the bill beautifully but if you don’t have an ice cream maker, an Italian semifreddo scented with vanilla and rippled with crushed and sugared raspberries is a great way to cool down.

The base for this semifreddo is cream cheese with whipped egg whites and whipped cream folded in for more volume.  Vanilla is the base flavor and fresh raspberries give it a bright edge of tartness and color.

If you’ve been reading my blog for any length of time, you know I usually favor pastries and desserts that have both flavor and simplicity in equal measure.   A bit of challenge is always important but I think for the most part, people tend to like unfussy preparations and simple presentations and I usually find myself striving to find this balance.   I think this semifreddo is a perfect example.


Bench notes:
-When lining the loaf pan, place a strip of parchment on top of the plastic to create a smoother surface. If you don’t have parchment, once you've unmolded it, you can use a warm knife or metal spatula to smooth the creases.
- The more you handle heavy cream after it’s been whipped, the stiffer it becomes.  So whip the cream just until soft peaks form.  This means the cream should have a soft lilt that is droopy.  If you go too far, the cream will be grainy and worsen as you fold it into the other ingredients.  
- The meringue should be beaten to a stiff peak, which means it should stand up firmly without falling over.
- The 1/4 cup sugar used with the raspberries in the semifreddo seems sweet but it helps to prevent the fruit from becoming too icy when frozen.
- Rather than layering the raspberries, swirl them in for a different effect.
- Strain out the raspberry seeds if you prefer.
- Another very easy and delicious dessert is Pistachio Semifreddo.
- As always, exercise caution when using raw egg whites.  They should not be served to small children, pregnant women or individuals who are at risk due to compromised immune systems.


Vanilla Raspberry Semifreddo
Makes 6 – 8 servings

12 oz fresh raspberries, divided                                   
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar

4 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 large egg whites (3 oz) @ room temperature
pinch salt
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) sugar

1 cup (8 oz) cold heavy cream
2 tablespoons (26 grams) sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Line an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving a 4” long overhang on each side.  You can also place a strip of parchment paper on top of the plastic to help form a smoother finish.

Place two-thirds of the raspberries (9 oz) in a bowl with 1/4 cup of sugar and mash coarsely with a fork.  Set aside. 

Beat the cream cheese with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla until smooth.  Set aside.

Whip the egg whites with a small pinch of salt until they are opaque and hold soft peaks.  Slowly add 1/4 cup sugar a little bit at a time, increasing speed to high.  Beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.  Set aside.

Whip the chilled cream with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla just until it holds soft peaks.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the whipped cream.  Then fold this into the cream cheese mixture until smooth.  Pour a third into the prepared loaf pan, then add a layer of half the raspberries.  Repeat the process and end with the cream mixture.  Smooth and level out the surface.  Cover the top with the parchment (if using) and overhanging plastic wrap and place in your freezer until firm, about 6 – 8 hours or overnight.

To serve, combine the remaining 3 oz raspberries with sugar, to taste.  Run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the loaf pan to loosen. Unwrap the plastic and parchment (if using) from around the top of the pan. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert.  Pull off the pan and carefully peel off the wrapping.  Cut into slices and serve immediately with the extra raspberries.