Whole Wheat Honey Oatmeal Rolls

It’s a weekend morning and the coffee is brewing.  You’ve got plenty of reading material and there’s a relaxing quiet that surrounds the morning sunlight.  There’s also an incredibly intoxicating aroma wafting from the oven.  It’s freshly baked rolls and it’s enough to bring anyone out of their slumber to join you at the table. 

For something different and a bit more on the wholesome end of the spectrum for your brunch table, consider these rolls fresh from the oven.   They have a good ratio of whole wheat flour, some oatmeal and they’re just slightly sweetened with honey and a touch of molasses. Serve them with butter and honey or your favorite jam or fruit compote to add another element of bliss to your weekend.

On another note, I’m going to include metric weights in my recipes going forward for those who use scales and for my overseas readers.  I hope you find this useful.

Bench notes:

- I use old-fashioned oats rather than “quick” oats in this recipe.

- Ideal rise temperature for yeast dough is between 80° F - 90° F.

- This dough doesn’t exactly double in size during the first rise, so use the finger test to determine if it’s ready for the next process.  Just press your index finger about 1 1/2 " into the dough.  If the indentation stays, the dough has completed the first rise.

- After the first rise, the dough is “punched down” to release the carbon dioxide and even out the temperature.  But rather than punching, gently press the air out with your fingers. 

- To form a roll, take the portion of dough and tuck the ends under the smooth side.  Place seam side down in the pan.

- Whole wheat flour contains bran, which inhibits elasticity of the dough, so I like to mix it with a good portion of all-purpose flour to produce a lighter pastry.

Whole Wheat Honey Oatmeal Rolls

Makes 12 rolls

1 pkg (1/4 oz; 7 g) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (2 oz; 57 g) lukewarm water

2 oz (4 tablespoons; 57 g) butter

1 cup (8 oz; 227 g) buttermilk

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz; 85 g) honey

2 tablespoons (1 1/8 oz; 32 g) molasses

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon                                                                   

1 large egg @ room temperature

3/4 cup (2 1/4 oz; 66 g) old-fashioned oats

1 1/4 cups (6 1/4 oz; 177 g) whole wheat flour                         

1 1/2 cups + 3 T (8 1/2 oz; 240 g) all-purpose flour                 

1 oz (2 tablespoons; 28 g) butter

2 teaspoons (10 g) honey

2 tablespoons (10g) oats

Sprinkle yeast into lukewarm water, whisk and let it sit for 5 minutes.

Melt the butter and whisk in the buttermilk, honey, molasses, salt, cinnamon and the egg.  Whisk in the yeast mixture.  Using a fork, stir in the oats.  Add the whole wheat flour and stir to combine.  Add 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour.  Keep adding flour 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is no longer sticky.   Place the dough on the work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 – 8 minutes.

Smooth the dough into a round ball and place it in a bowl lightly greased with oil.  Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free area for 1 – 1 1/2 hours.  To test if it’s ready, press your finger about 1 1/2" into the dough.  If it holds the indentation, it's ready.

Grease a 9” x 3” cake pan.  Gently press down the dough and place it on a work surface.  Using a bench scraper or a knife, divide the dough into 12 equal pieces.  Take each piece and form a ball.  Place 9 rolls around the perimeter of the pan and 3 rolls in the center.  Set in a warm place to rise for 45 minutes.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350° F. 

Melt 1 oz of butter with 2 teaspoons of honey.  Brush half of it over the tops of the rolls and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of oats.  Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake until rolls are golden brown, about 25 - 28 minutes.  Remove from the pan and brush generously with remaining melted butter and honey mixture.  Cool on a rack.

Lemon Mousse Tartlets

If you happen to have the luck of a few extra lemons in your kitchen, I’m here to give you some ideas. One of my favorite things in the whole universe of fabulous desserts is lemon mousse.  It’s light and creamy and full of the tart pucker of lemon.  In my book, it’s among the best of luxurious indulgences.  It’s also pretty easy to prepare.  

Instead of serving lemon mousse on its own, I dollop it in a tart shell to introduce some texture.  The tart shell has a little taste of almond and the dough is one of those easy mixes done in a food processor and then pressed into the tart pans rather than rolled out. 

The lemon mousse for this tart is a simple lemon curd blended with a fairly equal portion of lightly whipped cream.  I usually also fold in whipped egg whites for an even lighter, more ethereal mousse when serving on its own.  But for this tart, I keep it basic and slightly more substantial.

If you love lemon and the combination of creamy and crumbly, this tart should fill the bill.  

Bench notes:

- Acidic ingredients like lemon are likely to pick up a metallic flavor and may also discolor if cooked in what's called "reactive" cookware. Aluminum, cast iron and copper are reactive metals.  Stainless steel and glass are nonreactive.  

- Lemon curd can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 2 days.  Store it in an airtight container.

- If you prefer a plain tart shell, elminate the sliced almonds and use a total of 1 1/4 cups flour.

- Freezing the formed tart shells for one hour before baking helps to eliminate shrinkage.

- If you’d like to make the lighter version of this mousse on its own, make the lemon curd in the recipe.  Then whip just 1/2 cup cream to soft peak.  Fold that into the lemon curd and refrigerate.  Whip 2 egg whites with 1 tablespoon of sugar to stiff peak.  Fold into the lemon curd and cream mixture, spoon into serving dishes and chill.  As always, exercise caution when using raw egg whites.  They should not be served to small children, pregnant women or individuals who are at risk due to compromised immune systems.

Lemon Mousse Tartlets

Makes five 4” tartlets

Tart Dough

1 C flour                                

1/4 C (3/4 oz) sliced almonds

3 T sugar

1/4 t salt

zest of 1/2 lemon

4 oz (8 T) cold butter          

1 egg yolk

Lemon Mousse

1/2 C lemon juice (about 3 – 4 lemons)

zest of 2 lemons

1/2 C sugar

2 egg yolks

1 egg

3 oz (6 T) butter

1 1/4 C heavy cream                                              

2 T sugar

1/4 t vanilla

pistachios or sliced almonds, finely chopped for garnish

                                                           

Lightly grease five 4” tartlet pans with removable bottoms.                

Place the flour, almond slices, sugar, salt and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add.  Pulse until some of the butter is the size of oatmeal flakes.  Stir the yolk and add.  Process for about 10 - 15 seconds until the dough begins to form clumps.  It will not be a smooth dough.  Press the clumps evenly and smoothly into the bottom and sides of the tart pans.  Trim any excess from the top of the border.  Freeze the formed tart shells for one hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place the tart shells on a baking sheet.  Bake until they are a light golden brown, about 20 minutes.  Cool on a wire rack.

For the lemon curd, whisk the lemon juice, zest, sugar and eggs in a non-reactive heatproof bowl.  Place the bowl over a pan of low simmering water and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture begins to thicken, about 3 – 5 minutes.  Pour through a strainer into a bowl.  Cut the butter into small pieces and add a few at a time, stirring to incorporate. Press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface and set aside to cool.  Refrigerate until you're ready to assemble the tartlets.

To prepare the lemon mousse, whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla to soft peak.   Fold into the lemon curd and refrigerate.  When ready to serve, dollop the lemon mousse into the tart shells and garnish with finely chopped nuts.   

Hazelnut & Olive Oil Sticks

How cool is it to discover you have a brand new favorite cookie?  I just so happened to see this recipe featured on the ever-industrious Alice Medrich’s blog and right away I knew I had to get to the kitchen and see for myself.  And wow, am I glad I did.  This is an incredibly delicious cookie, the kind of cookie that I will make again and again because of the perfect combination of flavors found in every bite.  It sort of reminds me of a hazelnut sable I used to make at a restaurant only sturdier and made infinitely more interesting and much better with the use of olive oil instead of butter.

The ingredients for this beauty are simple.  The cookie is built around the beautiful flavor of hazelnuts and the complexity of good extra virgin olive oil.  Add the perfect amount of sugar and the saving grace of salt and you have a very elegant super crunchy cookie.  It has a rustic appearance but I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it after a special occasion dinner with a good wine or at a champagne brunch with some fresh fruit of the season, like strawberries, apricots, peaches or figs.  I think you and your guests will find a way to make another batch ASAP.

It sounds like Alice is knee deep in more book projects – how does she do it? – and this cookie is a glorious creation she developed in the midst of a moment of procrastination.  All I can say is, let’s hear it for the way she works!!

So, to sum up – I love the flavor, I love the texture and I love how dangerously easy it is to make this. My new favorite cookie.

Bench notes:

- Alice calls for raw hazelnuts but I used the toasted ones I had on hand.  The nuts should be skinned as much as possible.
- I used the delicious California Olive Ranch Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil in this cookie.  

- It’s easy to shape the cookie dough free form but you can press the dough into a loaf pan lined with parchment and plastic wrap if that is easier for you to do. 

- I found I needed to double the water, so you may also need to follow her instructions to add more if necessary.

- I chilled the cookie dough overnight.  It was very firm and made slicing a breeze.

- I got about 30 cookies because I sliced mine only just slightly thicker.  I really like them this way.  How long you bake them will depend on how thick you slice them.

- Cookies can be stored in an airtight container for several days.

Hazelnut and Olive Oil Sticks

adapted from Alice Medrich

Makes about three dozen 4” to 5” cookies

2/3 cup (76 grams) raw hazelnuts

1 1/4 cup (160 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (110 grams) sugar

3/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black or white pepper

6 tablespoons (80 grams) extra virgin olive oil

4 teaspoons cold water [I used 2 T + 2 t]

Place the hazelnuts, flour, sugar, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the hazelnuts are finely chopped. Drizzle in the olive oil. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs.  Add the water and pulse just until the mixture resembles damp crumbs and holds together when pinched.  It will not look like a smooth dough.  Add extra water if necessary.

Gather the dough on a sheet of plastic wrap and press it very firmly into a rectangle about 4” – 5” x 9” – 10” and 1/2” thick. Square the edges and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350F.  

Unwrap the chilled dough and place it on a cutting board. Using a long sharp knife, cut the dough crosswise into 3/8” slices and place on cookie sheets about 1” apart.

Bake 15-18 minutes until cookies are golden brown, rotating baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back half way through the baking time for even baking.  Place the pans on a wire rack to cool.

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

I’m pretty obsessed with strawberries these days.  When the season shifts and the market is flooded with new fruit, it’s impossible not to get mesmerized.  Then I spotted some fresh rhubarb a couple of days ago and boom, I had to jump in. 

Even though one of my very favorite things is Strawberry Rhubarb Pie, I had some leftover cream cheese from another project so my senses wandered toward some sort of strawberries and cream thing.  Since, along with strawberries, it’s hard to resist a little slice of good cheesecake, I made an ice cream that has some of the same qualities as a good cheesecake. It’s a delicious but plain ice cream with a spot of lemon juice and vanilla to enhance the flavor.  Instead of adding strawberries and rhubarb to the ice cream base, I went with a granita to contrast the creamy with an icy tart fruit flavor.  I’ve also added some diced and sugared strawberries to bring another element of texture and freshness to the plate.  I like the way everything co-mingles without being overly rich.  

The ice cream is great on its own but is also the sort you can pair with lots of different fruit and cookies.  I’m thinking a fresh blueberry compote or a raspberry coulis would be fabulous or some fresh cherries roasted in balsamic when they roll in sometime in the next few weeks.  A parfait of layered ice cream, berries and crushed shortbread, graham crackers or cocoa wafers would also be a playful dessert.  

It’s spring - get your strawberry rhubarb on!

Bench notes:

- This is a simple ice cream made in a food processor. The cream cheese and small amount of heavy cream make for a good creamy mouthfeel without the need for egg yolks.

- The amount of sugar in the granita is going to depend on the ripeness of your fruit.  You may want to add a bit more once you’ve tasted the puree but too much sugar and the granita won’t freeze.

- Use a shallow container for the granita so it has more surface area and will freeze evenly.

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

Cheesecake Ice Cream

Makes about 1 pint

8 oz cream cheese, softened

1 1/2 C milk

1/2 C heavy cream

1/2 C sugar

1 T + 1 t lemon juice, to taste

1/2 t vanilla

pinch salt, to taste

Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

Makes about 1 pint

6 oz (about 3 medium stalks) rhubarb                                  

1/2 C water                                      

1/4 C + 2 T sugar                                                                            

1/4 vanilla bean (optional)

zest of 1/2 orange

6 oz strawberries, plus more for garnish if desired

1 1/2 t lemon juice

For the ice cream, place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth and well blended.  Taste and adjust for lemon juice and salt.  Pour into an airtight container and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Churn according to your ice cream machine’s directions. Pour into an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

                                                                       

For the granita, trim and cut the rhubarb into 1/4" pieces.  Bring water and sugar to a boil. Lower the heat, add rhubarb, vanilla bean seeds and pod (if using), orange zest and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Take off the heat and cool.  Remove vanilla bean, if using.

Hull and slice the strawberries.  Place them in the bowl of a food processor with the cooled rhubarb.  Process until the fruit is pureed.  Add lemon juice.  Strain though a fine-mesh sieve and discard the solids.

Pour into a shallow airtight container, cover and place in the freezer. After about 2 hours, take the tines of a sturdy fork and scrape the surface of the granita to form slushy icy crystals. Place back in the freezer and repeat again in an hour or so.

For the strawberry garnish, slice or dice strawberries and place in a bowl with a sprinkle of sugar.   Toss thoroughly.  Serve a scoop of ice cream with a dollop of granita and strawberries.

Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake

Bright red spring strawberries have found their way to our markets just about everywhere.  Time to break out the seasonal shortcakes, pies, angel food and the ice cream machine!   Rhubarb cannot be far behind.

For a little diversion, I'm going in a different direction here.  I've placed fresh strawberries doused with brown sugar and balsamic atop a soft chocolate cake that's been dolloped with clouds of whipped cream.  The cake is made with oil for extra moisture and is a simple mix in a bowl.  A good measure of cocoa lends richness and depth that stands up to the bracing acidity of the strawberries.  It hits all the right dessert notes for flavor, gooey lusciousness and, of course, chocolate.

If you're seeing lots of good strawberries in your neighborhood, it's time to dig in!



Bench notes:
- A note about cake flour:  The important difference between cake flour and all-purpose flour is the protein content.  When flour protein is hydrated, strands of gluten develop.  The protein content of cake flour is about 8%; the protein content of all-purpose flour is about 10% - 12%.  So for cakes, lower protein flour means a more tender texture.  If you don't have access to cake flour, you can make your own with a ratio of cornstarch to all-purpose flour.  When added to all-purpose flour, cornstarch acts to inhibit the formation of gluten.  The formula for substituting all-purpose flour for cake flour: 1 cup cake flour = 1 cup bleached all-purpose flour minus 2 tablespoons + 2 tablespoons cornstarch.  After measuring, sift the flour to fully distribute the cornstarch before using it in your recipe.
- I used natural (undutched) cocoa powder for the cake.  To "bloom" the flavor, I mix it with hot water before adding it to the batter.
- The amount of sugar and balsamic you use for the strawberries will depend on their ripeness.
- Add a dab of sour cream to the whipped cream and substitute brown sugar for a variation that goes well with strawberries.



Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake
9 servings

1 1/2 C cake flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 C + 1 T cocoa powder
1/2 C + 1 T hot water
3/4 C dark brown sugar
3/4 C granulated sugar
1/4 C + 2 T canola oil
2 eggs @ room temperature
1 1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C + 2 T buttermilk @ room temperature

1 pint fresh ripe strawberries
3 T sugar, to taste
2 T balsamic vinegar, to taste

1 C heavy cream
1 T sugar
1/2 t vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9" square pan and line with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Sift the cake flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon.

Whisk the cocoa and hot water together until thoroughly blended and smooth.

Whisk together both sugars, oil, eggs and vanilla and blend well.  Add the cocoa mixture.  Stir in the dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.  Pour into the prepared pan and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to remove any air bubbles.

Bake until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering, about 28 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes.  Run a thin bladed knife around the edges and gently lift out the cake.  Cool completely.

Hull and slice the strawberries and place in a bowl with the brown sugar and balsamic.  Toss to thoroughly coat and set aside to macerate.

Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla to soft peak.  To serve, spread the cream on top of the cake and top with strawberries.  Alternatively, plate the slices of cake and garnish with a dollop of cream and a serving of strawberries and juices.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

Chocolate’s rich, dark, earthy flavor is suited to so many partners. It’s terrific with nuts, salt, olive oil, liqueur, brandy or rum and some types of dried and fresh fruit and red wine.  Espresso and spice are a couple of my favorite pairings.

Lately, my work seems to be going in the direction of cookies.  They’re so much fun and a favorite for most, handy for a small bliss bite when you don’t want to make a serious commitment to a piece of pie or cake or an indulgence in ice cream.  And I’ve been focusing on testing recipes that can be put together in no time in the food processor so there’s no excuse to have some fun every now and then.  And they can always be stored in your freezer for those times when you want just a taste.

I didn't really grow up eating cookies besides graham crackers and the Sunshine raisin biscuits I had at my grandmother’s house.  So I have a lot of experimenting to do.  But it’s the kind of study I gladly embrace considering the reward I get as I gladly give away all the results.

Today's cookie is all about cocoa, spices, espresso powder and an extra swipe of melted chocolate.  This cookie is crisp and has just enough of a hit of each of its elements.   I’d suggest a piping hot cup of coffee to go along.

Bench notes: 
- I used natural, not dutched, cocoa powder in this recipe.
- You can re-roll scraps.  Just layer them as you go rather than gathering them up into a ball.
- A round flat pizza pan is handy for chilling cookie dough that’s been rolled out.
- Using a vegetable peeler, I shaved about 1 oz chocolate for garnish.  They would also taste great with finely chopped nuts or without any garnish at all.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

Makes 32 cookies

2 C flour

1 1/4 C sugar

1/2 C cocoa powder

1 t baking powder

1 1/4 t instant espresso powder             

1/2 t cinnamon

1/4 t allspice

1/8 t cloves

1/4 t salt

8 oz (16 T) cold butter

2 T milk

1 1/2 t vanilla

4 oz chocolate

2 T butter

Place flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, espresso powder, spices and salt into the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add.  Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.  Combine the milk and vanila and add.  Pulse just until the cookie dough starts to clump and holds together when pinched. 

Place half the cookie dough on a piece of plastic wrap and gather together into a disc.  Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of the dough and roll out to a 10 1/4” circle about 1/8” thick.  Slide onto a pan and place in the refrigerator.  Repeat with second half of dough.  Chill until firm.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line baking pans with parchment or silpats.

Remove plastic wrap from both sides of cookie dough, leaving one piece underneath.  Cut out cookies using a 2 1/2” cookie cutter and place 12 per prepared baking pan. 

Bake cookies until the edges are firm, about 14 minutes.  Cool completely.

Melt butter and chocolate together in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn’t touching the water.  Stir to combine.  When cookies are cool, spread a layer of chocolate over half the cookie.  Garnish with shaved chocolate.  Set aside to dry.