Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake

Bright red spring strawberries have found their way to our markets just about everywhere.  Time to break out the seasonal shortcakes, pies, angel food and the ice cream machine!   Rhubarb cannot be far behind.

For a little diversion, I'm going in a different direction here.  I've placed fresh strawberries doused with brown sugar and balsamic atop a soft chocolate cake that's been dolloped with clouds of whipped cream.  The cake is made with oil for extra moisture and is a simple mix in a bowl.  A good measure of cocoa lends richness and depth that stands up to the bracing acidity of the strawberries.  It hits all the right dessert notes for flavor, gooey lusciousness and, of course, chocolate.

If you're seeing lots of good strawberries in your neighborhood, it's time to dig in!



Bench notes:
- A note about cake flour:  The important difference between cake flour and all-purpose flour is the protein content.  When flour protein is hydrated, strands of gluten develop.  The protein content of cake flour is about 8%; the protein content of all-purpose flour is about 10% - 12%.  So for cakes, lower protein flour means a more tender texture.  If you don't have access to cake flour, you can make your own with a ratio of cornstarch to all-purpose flour.  When added to all-purpose flour, cornstarch acts to inhibit the formation of gluten.  The formula for substituting all-purpose flour for cake flour: 1 cup cake flour = 1 cup bleached all-purpose flour minus 2 tablespoons + 2 tablespoons cornstarch.  After measuring, sift the flour to fully distribute the cornstarch before using it in your recipe.
- I used natural (undutched) cocoa powder for the cake.  To "bloom" the flavor, I mix it with hot water before adding it to the batter.
- The amount of sugar and balsamic you use for the strawberries will depend on their ripeness.
- Add a dab of sour cream to the whipped cream and substitute brown sugar for a variation that goes well with strawberries.



Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake
9 servings

1 1/2 C cake flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 C + 1 T cocoa powder
1/2 C + 1 T hot water
3/4 C dark brown sugar
3/4 C granulated sugar
1/4 C + 2 T canola oil
2 eggs @ room temperature
1 1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C + 2 T buttermilk @ room temperature

1 pint fresh ripe strawberries
3 T sugar, to taste
2 T balsamic vinegar, to taste

1 C heavy cream
1 T sugar
1/2 t vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9" square pan and line with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Sift the cake flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon.

Whisk the cocoa and hot water together until thoroughly blended and smooth.

Whisk together both sugars, oil, eggs and vanilla and blend well.  Add the cocoa mixture.  Stir in the dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.  Pour into the prepared pan and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to remove any air bubbles.

Bake until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering, about 28 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes.  Run a thin bladed knife around the edges and gently lift out the cake.  Cool completely.

Hull and slice the strawberries and place in a bowl with the brown sugar and balsamic.  Toss to thoroughly coat and set aside to macerate.

Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla to soft peak.  To serve, spread the cream on top of the cake and top with strawberries.  Alternatively, plate the slices of cake and garnish with a dollop of cream and a serving of strawberries and juices.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

Chocolate’s rich, dark, earthy flavor is suited to so many partners. It’s terrific with nuts, salt, olive oil, liqueur, brandy or rum and some types of dried and fresh fruit and red wine.  Espresso and spice are a couple of my favorite pairings.

Lately, my work seems to be going in the direction of cookies.  They’re so much fun and a favorite for most, handy for a small bliss bite when you don’t want to make a serious commitment to a piece of pie or cake or an indulgence in ice cream.  And I’ve been focusing on testing recipes that can be put together in no time in the food processor so there’s no excuse to have some fun every now and then.  And they can always be stored in your freezer for those times when you want just a taste.

I didn't really grow up eating cookies besides graham crackers and the Sunshine raisin biscuits I had at my grandmother’s house.  So I have a lot of experimenting to do.  But it’s the kind of study I gladly embrace considering the reward I get as I gladly give away all the results.

Today's cookie is all about cocoa, spices, espresso powder and an extra swipe of melted chocolate.  This cookie is crisp and has just enough of a hit of each of its elements.   I’d suggest a piping hot cup of coffee to go along.

Bench notes: 
- I used natural, not dutched, cocoa powder in this recipe.
- You can re-roll scraps.  Just layer them as you go rather than gathering them up into a ball.
- A round flat pizza pan is handy for chilling cookie dough that’s been rolled out.
- Using a vegetable peeler, I shaved about 1 oz chocolate for garnish.  They would also taste great with finely chopped nuts or without any garnish at all.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

Makes 32 cookies

2 C flour

1 1/4 C sugar

1/2 C cocoa powder

1 t baking powder

1 1/4 t instant espresso powder             

1/2 t cinnamon

1/4 t allspice

1/8 t cloves

1/4 t salt

8 oz (16 T) cold butter

2 T milk

1 1/2 t vanilla

4 oz chocolate

2 T butter

Place flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, espresso powder, spices and salt into the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add.  Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.  Combine the milk and vanila and add.  Pulse just until the cookie dough starts to clump and holds together when pinched. 

Place half the cookie dough on a piece of plastic wrap and gather together into a disc.  Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of the dough and roll out to a 10 1/4” circle about 1/8” thick.  Slide onto a pan and place in the refrigerator.  Repeat with second half of dough.  Chill until firm.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line baking pans with parchment or silpats.

Remove plastic wrap from both sides of cookie dough, leaving one piece underneath.  Cut out cookies using a 2 1/2” cookie cutter and place 12 per prepared baking pan. 

Bake cookies until the edges are firm, about 14 minutes.  Cool completely.

Melt butter and chocolate together in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn’t touching the water.  Stir to combine.  When cookies are cool, spread a layer of chocolate over half the cookie.  Garnish with shaved chocolate.  Set aside to dry.   

Lemon Cheese Tart

Spring has definitely sprung.  There are tulips and asparagus everywhere!  The evening light is back and the street scenes are transformed.  There are the occasional showers that we know will bring us May flowers.  Strawberries have arrived but I'm holding off just a bit to see if they get slightly smaller and sweeter.

And then of course there is lemon.  This tart is the ultimate in simplicity, the kind of dessert I always associate with spring.  It's a very light bite with lemon overtones and will pair nicely with all the fresh fruit of the season (think strawberry rhubarb compote).  Or it can be served plain with a nice glass of Beaumes de Venise, Semillon or Monbazillac.  It's basic but satisfying when you want just a hint of dessert.

The lemon filling is an equal blend of cream cheese and ricotta and forms a thin layer inside a flaky crust, so you're almost getting a fairly equal bite of both.  It's subtle and not too sweet, perfect if you're looking for something to crown a light summer meal in the twilight of evening.




Bench notes:
- The pastry dough comes together almost instantly.  Check it as you go to be sure you're not overmixing.  It's done when the dough looks a little bit like small curd cottage cheese.  When you gather it together to wrap, it smoothes out.
- The pastry dough can be made 1 - 2 days ahead and chilled.  Any longer than that and it starts to discolor and turn grey.
- Room temperature cream cheese makes it easier to blend with the other ingredients.
- Whisk the filling just long enough to completely combine without loosening the cheeses too much.
- Be gentle when you're folding over the pastry dough onto the tart to form the border so it doesn't sink into the filling.  It's easiest if you fold over all 4 sides first and then fold the tucked corners over the top.
- I bake this for 25 minutes at 375 degrees to set the cheese filling and then raise the temperature to 400 degrees for 10 minutes to brown the crust.  But each oven is its own beast, so check it at 25 minutes to see if your crust is browning properly.  If so, just leave the oven at 375.
- If you don't have a 9" square tart pan with a removable bottom, use a 9" square metal baking pan and line it with a parchment overhang so you can easily lift it out.
- Store leftovers in the refrigerator.  I was kind of surprised to find that it's also good cold!



Lemon Cheese Tart
Serves 6 - 8

Pastry Dough
1 C flour
2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Lemon Cheese Filling
5 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
5 oz ricotta
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
1 1/2 t lemon juice
zest of 1 lemon
pinch salt
1 egg

1/2 T butter, melted
sugar for sprinkling

To prepare the pastry dough, place the flour, sugar and salt into the bowl of a food processor and blend.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture.  Pulse until the butter is the size of small peas, about 5 seconds.  Add the cold water and pulse until the dough starts to clump, about 10 seconds.  The dough will look a bit like small curd cottage cheese.  Gather the dough and place on a sheet of plastic wrap.  Form a disc and wrap tightly.  Chill thoroughly.

For the filling, whisk together the cream cheese, ricotta, sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest.  Add a pinch of salt, to taste.  Whisk in the egg.  Chill the filling while you roll out the pastry dough.

Unwrap the dough and let it rest on a lightly floured piece of parchment or work surface for just a few minutes.  It needs to stay cool but warm up just enough to handle without a lot of resistance and cracking.

Roll the dough out to about an 11" square and 1/8" thickness, gently lifting and moving the dough after each roll and keeping it lightly floured as needed.  When you have the desired size, trim the edges and brush off any excess flour.  Fold it in half and then again in half.  Center the folded corner of the dough in a 9" square tart pan or baking pan.  Unfold it and work it into the corners, leaving an overhang on all four sides.  Pour the filling into the tart and spread it evenly.  Gently fold the pastry overhang onto the surface of the tart.

Chill the tart while you preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Brush the border of the dough with melted butter and dust with a light sprinkle of sugar.  Bake for 25 minutes and then increase oven temperature to 400 degrees.  Bake an additional 10 minutes until the dough is crisp and browned.  Place on a wire rack to cool completely.

Lemon Olive Oil Cake

I like to have a few simple cakes in my repertoire to serve with all the great fruit of the spring and summer months.  They make perfect partners when you want the ripe freshness of the fruit to be the star.  I also love the use of olive oil in pastry and this cake really demonstrates why.  It adds an assertive flavor and moisture that is unmistakable in plain cakes and complements the fruit in a way that adds another interesting dimension to dessert.  I serve it here with fresh sugared plums and the bright tart acidity is a great pairing.

Since there's no leavening in this cake, it's important to beat the egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage.  The egg whites are also beaten to soft peak and folded into the batter to lighten it and give it more volume.  As a result, the cake souffles a bit as it bakes and then deflates slightly as it cools, giving it its buckled and crackled surface.

The cake has a density a bit like a pound cake but is airy like a sponge cake and light as angel food.  I like the full-bodied richness of extra virgin olive oil but you can use regular olive oil if you want a subtler flavor.  The cake would go well with just about any spring and summer fruit served plain or poached in wine.  A dollop of whipped cream, lightly flavored with vanilla or kirsch, is also a very welcome garnish.



Bench notes:
- The cake rises considerably so you need a springform pan with sides that are at least 2 1/2" high.
- I used wonderfully fruity California Olive Ranch Arbequina olive oil.
- The recipe calls for cake flour but I also tested it with all-purpose and it's delicious.
- Fat is the enemy of egg whites, so be sure you've thoroughly cleaned your whisk after beating the egg yolks before you start beating the egg whites.  If there's any fat present, the egg whites will refuse to whip!
- To beat the egg whites to soft peak, start with the egg whites and the salt and whisk them on medium speed.  When they've reached a thick and opaque foamy stage and doubled in volume, slowly add the sugar.  They will stay at a soupy stage for a couple of minutes but then start to incorporate more air.  Keep beating until they are cloud-like and about tripled in volume.  When you lift the whisk, they should stand up in a soft peak with a slight lilt.  They won't be as shiny or stiff as a regular meringue because there is less sugar.
- The recipe calls for 1 1/2 tablespoons of lemon juice and 1 1/2 teaspoons of lemon zest, which is approximately 1 lemon, but I think it needs more lemon zest.  I used the zest of 1 1/2 lemons.
- Don't skip sprinkling the sugar on top.  This is not a very sweet cake and it needs that extra 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar.
- The recipe calls for baking the cake for about 45 minutes but mine was done in 30 minutes.  So check the cake when the aroma is pronounced and test for doneness.
- The cake can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

- I sliced 4 plums into thin wedges, sprinkled them with about 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar and then set them aside for 15 minutes to macerate.   I also added a couple of drops of good quality kirsch.  

- For whipped cream, I usually use about 2 - 3 teaspoons of sugar per cup and about 1/4 teaspoon of vanilla extract.  Or as a nice alternative for summer fruit, add just a couple drops of good kirsch.

- I've started a Tools board on Pinterest for quick sourcing of basic tools and techniques for pastry making.  You'll notice that I prefer uncoated pans and baking sheets.  I think they're the best for even baking and consistent results.



Lemon Olive Oil Cake
adapted from Gourmet
Makes 8 servings

5 egg yolks
1/2 C sugar
3/4 C extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 T lemon juice
zest of 1 large lemon [I used the zest of 1 1/2 lemons]
1 C cake flour [I used all-purpose]

4 egg whites
1/2 t salt
1/4 C sugar

1 1/2 T sugar, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9" x 2 1/2" springform pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Beat the yolks and 1/2 cup of sugar until thick and pale.  When lifted from the whisk, the batter should cascade in ribbons onto the surface and hold for a couple of seconds.  Reduce to medium speed and drizzle in the olive oil.  Combine thoroughly and then add the lemon juice and zest.  The mixture may look a bit broken.  Take the bowl off the mixer, sift half the flour onto the batter and fold it in gently but thoroughly.  Sift in remaining flour and fold until combined, making sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl.

Beat the egg whites with salt until they are foamy and expanded in volume.  Slowly add the sugar a little at a time and continue beating until they hold a soft peak.  Fold a third of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten the batter, then fold in remaining whites.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and gently rap the bottom on the work surface once or twice to release large air bubbles.  Sprinkle the top with the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar.

Bake until the cake is puffed and golden and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 - 40 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool.  Run a thin-bladed knife or metal spatula about the edge of the cake to release any areas that might be sticking to the pan.  Cool 10 minutes and release the metal ring of the springform pan.  Cool completely.  Gently invert the cake and remove the parchment.  Invert again onto a serving plate.

Chocolate Orange Cardamom Pull-Apart

This yeasted pastry is very reminiscent of old-fashioned fantail biscuits.  It's a wonderfully soft yeast dough that is layered with a loose paste of butter, cocoa and Grand Marnier and sprinkled with cardamom sugar.  Instead of forming individual biscuits, the dough is cut and stacked and placed upright in a loaf pan.  The components are very simple and it's an appealing presentation that definitely does beg to be pulled apart.

As the loaf bakes, the layers expand beautifully, displaying a bit like the pages of a well-worn book.  I love the crusty sweet exterior of the loaf and the tender delicious interior.  It's not overly rich or sweet but just right.  If you like working with yeast, this definitely ranks as an easy alternative to cinnamon rolls.  And as we head into brunch season, it would be the perfect thing for your guests to tear into and enjoy along with a steaming hot cup of good coffee.



Bench notes:
- The water to proof the yeast should be warm, not hot, to the touch.  Technically, if you have a thermometer, the temperature of the liquids for yeast should be 110 - 115 degrees F.  This is just above body temperature.  If adding liquid to yeast that has been mixed with dry ingredients, the temperature has to be higher, about 120 - 130 degrees F.
- Salt is important in yeast dough because it slows the rising time and allows the full flavor of the dough to develop.  It also strengthens the gluten and builds the structure of the bread by keeping the carbon dioxide bubbles from expanding too quickly.  Sugar not only adds flavor, it's also a browning agent.
- As you line the loaf pan, the pieces may slouch and the sugar may shift a bit.  That's all OK.  Each loaf has its own character!
- There are other ways to prepare the layers.  You can also spread and sprinkle the filling as you stack the long layers but I think that makes it a bit harder to distribute the filling evenly.
- Remove the baked loaf from the pan after a few minutes to prevent the bread from getting soggy.
- No need to cut the portions; just dig in and pull apart the layers!



Chocolate Orange Cardamom Pull-Apart
Makes 1 loaf

For the dough
1/4 C warm water
1 package (2 1/4 t) active dry yeast
tiny pinch sugar

1/3 C warm milk
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C sugar
1/2 t salt
1 t vanilla
2 eggs
2 3/4 C - 3 C flour

Filling
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C cocoa powder
2 t Grand Marnier

1/2 C sugar
3/4 t cardamom
1/4 t cinnamon

For the yeast dough, place warm water into a large wide bowl and sprinkle the yeast over it along with a tiny pinch of sugar.  Whisk to combine and set aside for 5 minutes.

Heat the milk and butter together just until the butter melts.  Take off the heat and add the sugar, salt and vanilla.  Add to the yeast mixture and whisk in the eggs.  Switch to a fork and stir in 2 3/4 cups of flour.  If necessary, keep adding flour 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is no longer sticky.

Place the dough on a work surface and knead until soft and elastic.  Grease a large wide bowl with oil and transfer the dough to the bowl.   Turn the dough over to coat all sides.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place to rise for 1 hour until about doubled in size.

Lightly grease an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" loaf pan and line with a piece of parchment large enough to form an overhang on both sides along the length of the pan.

For the filling, melt the butter over medium low heat.  Whisk in the cocoa.  Cook, whisking constantly, for just another minute to let the flavor and aroma of the cocoa bloom.  Take off the heat and add the Grand Marnier.  Set aside to cool.  In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, cardamom and cinnamon.  Set aside.

Gently deflate the dough.  Place on a work surface with a very light dusting of flour.  Roll the dough out to a 20" x 12" rectangle.  Using a pastry brush or a small offset spatula, spread the cocoa paste over the entire surface of the dough.  Sprinkle with all but about 2 teaspoons of the sugar and spice mixture.

Cut the dough lengthwise into five 12" x 4" strips.  Gently lift and stack them on top of each other.  Don't worry about making the stacks look too neat; they needn't be perfect.  Cut the stack into four equal pieces.

Line the prepared loaf pan with the stacked pieces, placing them upright in a row.  Adjust them so they are evenly placed across the length of the pan.  It will seem like there aren't enough but the dough will rise and expand during the second rise and the baking process. Sprinkle the top of the loaf with the remaining sugar and set the loaf aside in a warm place to rise for another 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Bake until the top of the loaf is golden brown, about 25 minutes.  Set on a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes.  Lift the yeast bread out of the pan using the paper overhang to assist.  Remove the parchment and cool completely.

Chocolate Stout Cake

I really enjoy Suzanne Goin's approach to food.  Her dishes are simple, rustic and satisfying.  She runs four acclaimed restaurants in Los Angeles.  At Tavern, there's an in-house bakery called Larder with lots of gorgeous stuff.  Her cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, won an award from the James Beard Foundation and the pastry recipes I've tried have all been delicious.  And since we're heading into Guinness and chocolate territory over the next several days, I thought I'd try her Chocolate Stout Cake.

The interesting thing about this cake is that the chocolate really takes a back seat to the bold flavor of molasses and the addition of lots of spice.  There are equal parts of ground cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, so there's no mistaking the fact that this cake has a gingerbread feel.  The Guinness bridges all these strong elements and rounds out the flavor beautifully.  The cake is made with oil so it's quick to mix and super moist.  I like it simply served with a dollop of whipped cream.  It would also be terrific with vanilla or caramel ice cream, of course!



Bench notes:
- I haven't tried this with any other brand of beer so I recommend you go with Guinness.
- I halved the recipe to bake in an 8" cake pan.  If you'd like to double the recipe and bake in a bundt pan as Suzanne does, use 3 whole eggs.
- Note that the baking soda is added to the molasses and beer rather than sifted with the dry ingredients.
- Use natural cocoa powder rather than dutched.
- The recipe doesn't include salt but I added a 1/4 teaspoon to the dry ingredients
- Store cake in an airtight container.



Chocolate Stout Cake
adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin
Serves 8

1 C flour
1/4 C + 2 T cocoa powder
3/4 t baking powder
1/4 t cloves
1/4 t cinnamon
1/4 t freshly grated nutmeg
[I added 1/4 t salt]
1/2 C Guinness stout
1/2 C molasses
3/4 t baking soda
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C granulated sugar
1/2 C canola oil

powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease an 8" x 2" round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg [and salt, if using].

Place the beer and molasses in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Remove from the heat and whisk in the baking soda.  The mixture will rise and foam.

In another bowl, whisk the egg, egg yolk and both sugars until thoroughly combined.  Whisk in the oil and then add the beer mixture.  Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.  Pour the liquid ingredients into the well.  Whisk slowly just until the ingredients are incorporated.

Pour the batter in the prepared pan and bake until a tester comes out mostly clean when inserted in the middle, about 28 - 30 minutes.  Cool the cake on a wire rack for 10 minutes.  Invert the cake and remove the parchment.  Invert the cake again and cool completely.  Dust with powdered sugar and serve.