Chocolate Stout Cake

I really enjoy Suzanne Goin's approach to food.  Her dishes are simple, rustic and satisfying.  She runs four acclaimed restaurants in Los Angeles.  At Tavern, there's an in-house bakery called Larder with lots of gorgeous stuff.  Her cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, won an award from the James Beard Foundation and the pastry recipes I've tried have all been delicious.  And since we're heading into Guinness and chocolate territory over the next several days, I thought I'd try her Chocolate Stout Cake.

The interesting thing about this cake is that the chocolate really takes a back seat to the bold flavor of molasses and the addition of lots of spice.  There are equal parts of ground cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, so there's no mistaking the fact that this cake has a gingerbread feel.  The Guinness bridges all these strong elements and rounds out the flavor beautifully.  The cake is made with oil so it's quick to mix and super moist.  I like it simply served with a dollop of whipped cream.  It would also be terrific with vanilla or caramel ice cream, of course!



Bench notes:
- I haven't tried this with any other brand of beer so I recommend you go with Guinness.
- I halved the recipe to bake in an 8" cake pan.  If you'd like to double the recipe and bake in a bundt pan as Suzanne does, use 3 whole eggs.
- Note that the baking soda is added to the molasses and beer rather than sifted with the dry ingredients.
- Use natural cocoa powder rather than dutched.
- The recipe doesn't include salt but I added a 1/4 teaspoon to the dry ingredients
- Store cake in an airtight container.



Chocolate Stout Cake
adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin
Serves 8

1 C flour
1/4 C + 2 T cocoa powder
3/4 t baking powder
1/4 t cloves
1/4 t cinnamon
1/4 t freshly grated nutmeg
[I added 1/4 t salt]
1/2 C Guinness stout
1/2 C molasses
3/4 t baking soda
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C granulated sugar
1/2 C canola oil

powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease an 8" x 2" round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg [and salt, if using].

Place the beer and molasses in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Remove from the heat and whisk in the baking soda.  The mixture will rise and foam.

In another bowl, whisk the egg, egg yolk and both sugars until thoroughly combined.  Whisk in the oil and then add the beer mixture.  Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.  Pour the liquid ingredients into the well.  Whisk slowly just until the ingredients are incorporated.

Pour the batter in the prepared pan and bake until a tester comes out mostly clean when inserted in the middle, about 28 - 30 minutes.  Cool the cake on a wire rack for 10 minutes.  Invert the cake and remove the parchment.  Invert the cake again and cool completely.  Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Orange Spice Sherbet

Each year as the seasons go by, I'm always taken aback at how swiftly and effortlessly fresh fruit and vegetables flow into the market.  There's something uniquely joyful and renewing about seeing the arrival of different items in our produce department even though the calendar tells us to expect them.  As spring is fast approaching, I'm once again really excited to greet the grand parade of color and supreme enjoyment of berries, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and figs.  Ah, primavera.

However, there are some gorgeous oranges available right now, so it only makes sense to take another moment to focus on the luscious fresh quality of citrus.  And since I love sherbet, I decided to keep it simple and make this orange version.  I was hoping to feature blood oranges but they seem to have eluded me this week.  If you can find them at your local market, do pick some up and enjoy them while they last.  They are such a very special treat.  Their super refreshing acidity and bright red color are stunning.

Here I use ordinary navel oranges, which are always a welcome addition to any pastry kitchen.  I've added a pinch of spice to the sherbet to keep things slightly more interesting.  I like this subtle blend of cardamom, cinnamon and allspice but if you don't care for those, add a pinch of clove or steep some star anise.  Or leave the spice out altogether and you still have a nice simple sherbet.  Perfect to enjoy with your favorite cookie or a bite of chocolate.

Bench notes:
- Lemon juice bolsters the brightness of the orange juice.
- Salt is very important for enhancing the flavor of both dairy and citrus, so add a pinch to the simmering cream and milk and then taste again and adjust for salt once you've added the orange and lemon juices.
- Add a splash of Grand Marnier for a stronger pop of orange.
- Let the sherbet sit for a few minutes to soften a bit before scooping and serving.

Orange Spice Sherbet
Makes abut 1 1/2 pints

1 C heavy cream
1/2 C milk
1/2 C sugar
zest of 2 oranges
1/4 t ground cardamom
pinch cinnamon
pinch allspice
pinch salt, to taste
1 1/2 C fresh orange juice
2 T fresh lemon juice

Combine the cream, milk, sugar, orange zest, spices and a pinch of salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium low heat.  Simmer until the sugar is dissolved.  Take off the heat, add the orange juice and lemon juice and whisk until thoroughly combined.  Taste and adjust for salt.  Cool completely.

Pour into an airtight container and place in the refrigerator to chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Churn the sherbet according to your machine's instructions.  Pour into an airtight container and pack it down firmly to eliminate any air pockets.  Press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in the freezer to firm up.

Peanut Butter & Jam Cookies

Peanuts ground to a pasty substance were likely a product of Aztec Native American culture hundreds of years ago.  Although not particularly favored in Europe, peanut butter as we know it today is considered a household staple in the United States.  Like all American kids, I grew up on peanut butter sandwiches.  And, like everybody else, I never seemed to tire of them.  The pairing of nutty, salty peanut butter and sweet fruity jam probably gave rise to my affinity for sweet-salty combinations.  But it's been ages since I've had a peanut butter sandwich so I thought I'd remedy that with this cookie.

This is a shortbread type of peanut butter cookie so it's crisp and crumbly and not terribly sweet.  I love a good intense peanut butter cookie - you know, the kind we all got hooked on as kids - but this one has a subtler flavor.  To bolster the subtlety, the jam and casual slight dip of chocolate bring the bling.

The dough for this simple butter cookie comes together in a food processor, a most favored tool in my kitchen.  Once the dough has had a thorough chilling, the cookies are cut out and baked, then on to the dipping and filling.  Use your very favorite jam.  I'm partial to raspberry.



Bench notes:
- Chill the cookie dough thoroughly so cookies hold their shape when baked.
- Gently gather and re-roll scraps for additional cookies.
- If you're not a fan of jam, fill the cookies with chocolate or enjoy them plain.  Or serve them with your favorite ice cream.
- The cookies will soften when filled, so eat them soon after.  Unfilled and undipped cookies can be stored in an airtight container for a few days.
- If you love peanut cookies, you must try this incredible Peanut Cookie Brittle.



Peanut Butter & Jam Cookies
Makes 24 cookies; 12 sandwich cookies

1 1/4 C flour
1/2 C powdered sugar
1/2 t salt
4 oz (8 T) cold butter
1/4 C peanut butter
1 egg yolk
1 t vanilla

2 oz semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate
1 oz (2 T) butter

your favorite jam

Place the flour, powdered sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture along with the peanut butter.  Process until it looks like course meal.  Add the egg yolk and vanilla and process until the dough begins to clump around the center of the machine.

Gather the dough and place on a piece of plastic wrap.  Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and roll out to about a 10 1/2" square.  Slide onto a sheet pan and refrigerate until completely chilled.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line two baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Remove the sheet of cookie dough from the refrigerator and lift off the plastic wrap from both sides.  Using a 2" square cookie cutter or other similar sized shape, cut out cookies and place on prepared cookie sheets.

Bake the cookies until the edges just start to take on some color, about 12 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through.  Cool the pans on a wire rack.

Chop the chocolate into very small pieces and place in a small heatproof bowl.  Add the butter and melt together over a water bath, whisking to thoroughly combine.  Dip a portion of 12 of the cookies in the chocolate, scraping against the side of the bowl to eliminate any extra.  Set on a wire rack to dry.  Spread the other half of the cookies with your favorite jam and sandwich the cookies together.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

The origins of Sticky Toffee Pudding are distinctly British.  Some say it's an old recipe from the South of England, although inhabitants of Eastern Scotland also lay claim to its invention.  Whatever the case, it appears to have been developed in a hotel kitchen, which may account for the fact that it continues to appear on restaurant menus with some regularity, likely based in part on its ease of preparation.  Also note that this is not a pudding in American terms.  In Britain, "puddings" are steamed cakes.  In America, Sticky Toffee Pudding is a baked cake served with toffee sauce, which is where the sticky part comes in.  Are you with me?

I have to confess, I've never been inclined to try this dessert.  I've always veered away from most recipes for it because they seemed too sweet for my taste.  But when I saw Rose Levy Beranbaum's version, I was very tempted to give it a go.  First of all, she soaks the dates in Guinness beer, which I think provides a great foil for the sweetness.  Secondly, her use of sugar is relatively restrained.  And despite Beranbaum's reputation for copious detail, this recipe is not at all complicated or fussy. (By the way, Rose dined in a restaurant where I once worked and the pastry department went into high prep mode to present her with some exquisite tastings.  She is very funny and gracious.)

This cake is fairly light with a very nice soft crumb.  The toffee sauce is really terrific - rich and dark without overwhelming everything.  I think the lemon juice saves it from being too cloying.  The sauce really makes the whole dessert so don't even consider leaving it out!  And I've added a dollop of whipped cream here but vanilla ice cream would of course be superb.

Bench notes:
- I highly recommend using Medjool dates because they are gorgeously plump and have a sort of natural toffee flavor all their own.
- When you add the baking soda to the hot beer, the mixture will foam up.
- Don't be alarmed when you see that there isn't much cake batter.  It rises generously.
- I made 1/2 the cake recipe in an 8" x 8" dish.  If you double the recipe for the cake, you'll need a 9" x 13" pan.  Use a total of 3 eggs.
- In the original recipe, Beranbaum sets the temperature at 350 degrees but cautions if you use a Pyrex dish or dark pan, then it should be lowered to 300 degrees.  However, I baked mine in a Pyrex dish at 325 degrees and that worked fine.
- I made 1/4 of the toffee sauce recipe, which I thought was plenty for 1/2 of the cake recipe.  If you increase the toffee sauce, you'll likely have some left over, which would be crazy terrific spooned over ice cream.
- I cooked the toffee sauce for 2 minutes on low heat to make sure the sugar was dissolved and to develop a bit of color.
- If you notice a white powdery film on the surface of your dates, this is due to their natural sugar and is not cause for alarm.  It's just sugar crystal formation.  Once the dates are warm, the crystals dissolve.



Sticky Toffee Pudding
adapted from Rose's Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum
Note: The recipe below is for half the original cake recipe and one-fourth of the toffee sauce. You can find the full version of this recipe here.
Serves 6

3 oz dates [I used 7 medium-sized Medjool dates]
1/2 C stout beer, preferably Guinness extra stout
1/2 t baking soda

1 C flour

1/2 t baking powder

1/4 t salt

1/2 t cinnamon

1/4 t nutmeg

1 1/2 oz (3 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C + 1 T sugar
3/4 t vanilla extract
1 egg @ room temperature
1 egg yolk @ room temperature

Toffee Sauce
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 vanilla bean [I used a scant 1/2 t vanilla extract]
2 T heavy cream
1 1/2 t lemon juice
pinch of salt, to taste

1 C heavy cream
2 t sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Grease an 8" x 8" Pyrex baking dish and line the bottom with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Cut open the dates and remove the pit and stem.  Coarsely chop and place in a bowl.

Bring the Guinness to a boil.  Remove from heat and whisk in the baking soda.  Pour this over the dates and set aside to cool.  Then place the dates in a food processor with a little of the beer mixture.  Process until a paste is formed, gradually adding the remaining beer mixture through the feed tube.  Scrape into a bowl and set aside.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Beat the butter, sugar and vanilla on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes.  Whisk the egg and egg yolk and gradually add in three additions, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as you go.  Add a third of the flour mixture, alternating with half the date mixture and beginning and ending with the flour.  Mix just until the batter is uniform in color without any streaks.  Scrape the cake batter into the prepared pan and spread out the evenly.

Bake for 25 - 30 minutes or until a tester comes out clean.  Cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack.  Then gently lift the cake out of the pan using the parchment overhang to assist.  Remove the parchment.

While the cake is baking, prepare the toffee sauce.  Place the brown sugar and butter in a small saucepan.  If you're using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds into the pan and add the pod.  Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly.  Remove the pan from the heat and add the heavy cream, lemon juice and salt, to taste.  (If using vanilla extract, add it at this point.  If using a vanilla bean, remove the pod.)

For the whipped cream, whisk the cream, sugar and vanilla just until it holds a very soft peak.  Place a slice of cake on a plate and spoon the toffee sauce over the top.  Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream.

Poppy Seed Sandwich Cookies

It's time to have some fun with sandwich cookies.  I love making cookies of all kinds - crispy, crunchy, soft, chewy, sandy, nutty, spicy; piped, cut, rolled or dropped.  What makes pastry so much fun is the delicious variety of all these shapes, sizes, tastes and textures.  Sandwich cookies are a bit more fancy just by virtue of their filling but they aren't really a whole lot more work, especially when you keep the ingredients simple.

Poppy seeds are an ancient ingredient widely used in Eastern European pastries.  I've used them here to make poppy seed cookies with a hint of lemon.  The filling is a nice gooey cream cheese frosting that also has a spritz of lemon to keep it bright and not overly sweet.  If you prefer a simple shortbread, these cookies are also perfectly good plain.  And since they're made in a food processor, they take very little effort.

Bench notes:
- For an inexpensive alternative, I buy poppy seeds at World Market.
- Gently gather and re-roll scraps for additional cookies.
- These would also taste great filled with some raspberry or blueberry jam.
- Cookies soften a bit when filled so if you'd like to keep them crisp, fill them just before you're ready to serve.  Cookies will keep in an airtight container; the filling will keep in the refrigerator.
- If you love poppy seeds, try this tender Poppy Seed Cake with Mascarpone Cream.



Poppy Seed Sandwich Cookies
Makes about 32 cookies or 16 sandwich cookies

2 C flour
1/2 C confectioner's sugar
1/4 C poppy seeds
1/4 t salt
zest of 1 lemon
8 oz (16 T) cold butter
1 egg
1 t vanilla

Filling
4 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
1 1/2 oz (3 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C confectioner's sugar, sifted
2 t lemon juice
1/4 t vanilla

Place the flour, confectioner's sugar, poppy seeds, salt and lemon zest into the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2" cubes and add to the flour mixture.  Process 10 - 15 seconds.  Combine the egg and vanilla and pour over the mixture.  Process about 15 seconds until the dough starts to clump around the center of the machine.

Gather the dough and divide in half.  Place half of the dough on a piece of plastic wrap.  Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and roll out to a circle 9 1/4" in diameter.  Slide onto a sheet pan and refrigerate until completely chilled.  Repeat with the other half of the cookie dough.

When the cookie dough has been thoroughly chilled, preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line 2 baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Remove one sheet of cookie dough from the refrigerator and lift off the plastic wrap on both sides.  Using a 2" round or square cookie cutter or other similar sized shape, cut out cookies and place on prepared cookie sheet.  Refrigerate.  Repeat with second sheet of cookie dough.

When oven is ready, bake the cookies until the edges just start to take on some color, about 12 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through.  Cool on a wire rack.

For the filling, whisk together all of the ingredients until smooth.  Spread onto half of the cookies and top with remaining cookies.

Hazelnut-Stuffed Pears with Maple Glaze

Like you, I've got lots of stacks of recipes to try and hundreds of online bookmarks of pastries and desserts that I keep meaning to move to the line-up for more careful consideration.  This is one of the "someday I must try this" recipes that I'm really happy to pass along because it's an amazing fruit composition that has all the elements of a perfect winter dessert.

My go-to fresh fruits this time of the year are apples, pears and citrus.  Today's very sumptuous dessert recipe features roasted pears with a terrific sauce.  I'd say it's definitely one for your recipe files to use whenever you have some fresh pears and about 10 - 15 minutes to get the whole thing together.

The pears are peeled, cored and stuffed with a brown sugar and hazelnut mixture fortified with just a little nip of booze and butter.  Some apple juice is added to the roasting pan and maple syrup is drizzled on top of the stuffed pears.  As they bake to peak perfection, the butter and brown sugar melt and intermingle with the apple juice, maple syrup and Frangelico and transform into a swoon-worthy caramel.  This makes for a super delicious baste for the pears and a luscious sauce when served.

I love the hazelnut vibe in this recipe but if you're not a fan of hazelnuts, substitute almonds or pecans and use Amaretto, brandy or rum.  In this instance, I think you must serve the pears with vanilla ice cream for an extra moment of sublime luxury, any given day of the week.  And really - I must honestly say, I hope you survive all this crazy goodness.

Bench notes:
- I used D'Anjou pears.
- I added a pinch of cinnamon and salt to the filling, which I think made a really wonderful difference.
- My pears were fairly ripe and baked in half the time, 20 minutes.  So depending on your fruit, I would advise to test for doneness as you baste.
- I served this dessert with some Goat Cheese Ice Cream from Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home by Jeni Britton Bauer, which was hideously magnificent.
- The roasted pears would also be good to serve alongside a cheese plate.



Hazelnut-Stuffed Pears with Maple Glaze
adapted from Bon Appetit
Makes 6 servings

1/3 C hazelnuts, toasted and husked
1/3 C golden brown sugar, packed [I used dark brown]
2 t flour
pinch cinnamon [my addition]
pinch salt [my addition]
3/4 oz (1 1/2 T) butter @ room temperature
2 t Frangelico

3 D'Anjou or Bosc pears
1/4 C + 2 T unsweetened apple juice
1/4 C + 2 T pure grade B maple syrup

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Coarsely chop nuts into bite-sized pieces.  Place in a bowl with the brown sugar and flour and toss.  Add a good pinch of cinnamon and a light sprinkle of salt, if using.  Break the butter into small pieces and work it in with your fingers until roughly combined along with the liqueur.

Peel, halve and core each pear, making a nice well for the stuffing.  Arrange them cut side up in a 11" x 7" glass baking dish.  Mound the nut mixture into each of the pear cavities, pressing to compact the filling.  Pour the apple juice into the dish.  Drizzle each pear with 1 tablespoon of maple syrup.

Roast the pears until tender, about 45 minutes, basting occasionally with the juices.  Pears should give easily when pierced with a sharp knife.  Transfer pears to plates and drizzle with the juices.  Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.