Lemon Sherbet

Citrus features prominently in many of my pastries and desserts.  It really brightens the flavor of fruit, enhances cakes and provides depth to creams and custards.  In particular, I consider lemons essential to my work and I always have them handy.

For this recipe, I decided to make lemon the star.  I love an easy and refreshing sorbet, but in this formulation I introduced some buttermilk to add another layer of tang.  I also mixed in some heavy cream for lusciousness.  When you add dairy to sorbet, it becomes sherbet.

This recipe couldn't be any easier.  All the ingredients are simply whisked together and then chilled thoroughly, preferably overnight to allow everything to relax and mingle.  Then it's churned and presto! A cool and tart scoop is yours.

Bench notes:
- Salt is very important to enhance the properties of dairy.  Keep adding a few grains at a time until the flavor pops.  You'll know it when you get there.
- Chilling the base thoroughly means your ice cream machine will work efficiently and more effectively.
- Before churning the sherbet in your ice cream machine, you can strain out the lemon zest if your prefer.
- After pouring the churned ice cream into a clean airtight container, I press a piece of plastic into the surface to prevent ice crystal formation.
- Add a tablespoon or two of vodka for a softer sherbet.
- Because homemade ice cream doesn't contain any commercial additives or emulsifiers, it needs to sit at room temperature for a few minutes before scooping.
- This is great served alongside berry pies or tarts in the summertime.



Lemon Sherbet

2/3 C sugar
1/4 C + 2 T fresh lemon juice
zest of 2 lemons
1 1/2 C buttermilk
1 C heavy cream
good pinch of salt

Whisk the sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, buttermilk and heavy cream together until completely blended.  Add a pinch of salt, to taste.  Pour into an airtight container and chill thoroughly.

Whisk the mixture and freeze in your ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Pour into a clean airtight container, press a piece of plastic into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

Apple Lattice Galette

As much as I love testing all kinds of new recipes, it seems the pastries that are consistently favored most at the table are those that are the simplest compositions based on buttery pastry dough.  Whether they are pies, galettes or flaky Eastern European pastries, they are inevitably scooped up and consumed with unbridled enjoyment.

This apple galette is one such pastry.  It begins with a very delicious and easy dough.  I love the way it shatters into crispy shards when you bite into it.  The simple mixture is from Jacques Pepin and is an iteration of what was called "crunch dough" at Chez Panisse and other area professional kitchens.  I have taken to making it in a food processor and if you're careful not to overmix, it comes out beautifully.

The apples are sauteed in butter and sugar with a spritz of lemon juice and a slight pinch of cinnamon.  Since I had a bit of cream cheese left over from some holiday experiments, I added a thin cream layer underneath the apples.  It's just enough to round out the flavors and textures.  I used the technique of a Danish braid for a different presentation and a more pastry-to-fruit ratio.

A Happy New Year to all the wonderful readers of Pastry Studio.  Lots of great pastries and desserts in the year ahead!!

Bench notes:
- Make sure the butter and water for the pastry dough are very cold, which is what makes the pastry flaky.
- I used Fuji apples, which are quite sweet.  If you use different apples, add sugar, to taste.
- I searched for an illustration for how to achieve the Danish braid lattice effect and found this pretty good one.  Scroll all the way to the bottom.



Apple Lattice Galette
Serves 6 - 8

1 C flour
1 1/2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz (6 T) cold butter
1/4 C cold water

2 apples

1 T butter

2 T sugar

1 t lemon juice

pinch cinnamon

3 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
1 T + 2 t sugar
1/2 t lemon juice
slight pinch salt

For the pastry dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine.  Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces, add to the flour mixture and process for 5 seconds.  Add the cold water and pulse about 15 times.  The dough will look a bit lumpy, like cottage cheese.  Gather the dough and place on a piece of plastic wrap.  Shape into a flattened rectangle and wrap.  Chill the dough at least 30 minutes or overnight.

For the apple filling, peel, core and cut the apples into 1/4" slices.  Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat.  Add the apple slices, sugar, lemon juice and a slight pinch of cinnamon and toss well to combine.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the apples are tender, about 15 minutes.  Set aside to cool.

To make the cream filling, combine the softened cream cheese, sugar, lemon juice and a few grains of salt until smooth.  Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and rest on lightly floured parchment paper.  Let it sit for a few minutes to soften enough to be able to roll it out without cracking.

Roll the dough out to a 14" x 11" rectangle, gently lifting and moving the dough after each roll and lightly flouring as needed to prevent sticking.  When you have the desired shape, brush off excess flour and lift the pastry along with the parchment paper onto a baking sheet.

Spread the cream cheese filling down the middle third of the dough with the shorter 11" end at left to right.  Layer the cooled apples over the top of the cream cheese mixture.  Using a sharp knife, cut the outer thirds of dough on each side into 3/4" strips at about a 45 degree angle to the filling.  Starting at the top, fold over the top piece of dough onto the filling and then, alternating sides, fold the strips of dough over the filling, crisscrossing over the center, until the entire surface is braided and the bottom piece of dough is tucked in over the filling.  Brush the surface with melted butter and dust with a light sprinkling of sugar.

Bake the galette until the dough is crisp and browned, 35 - 40 minutes.  Place on a wire rack to cool.

Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise

Throughout history, quince have been associated with romance and commitment, a gift from Aphrodite.  By the early 18th century, this unique fruit had found its way to the United States.  Although quinces are a staple in savory Moroccan tagines, North African and Middle Eastern stews, Chinese teas and Hindu chutneys, in America, they are mostly poached in a light syrup, used as a pastry filling or made into a sweet paste and served as an accompaniment to cheese.

We are at the very end of quince season, so I thought I'd jump in before we forge our path into a new year.  It's hard to believe we've breezed right through the 2012 holiday season, but here we are.

This dessert is composed of an Olive Oil Sponge Cake that is one of the easiest and tastiest sponge cakes you'll ever make.  It's my very favorite of its kind.  The quince compote is served alongside the cake with a helping of crème anglaise, a classic French dessert sauce.  The contrasting combination of textures and lightness and richness is more than satisfying for fans of each.  If you don't have time for the sauce, vanilla ice cream is purely perfect as a delicious accompaniment.

Wishing you a really terrific New Year's celebration with close family and friends and sending heartfelt thanks for your lovely companionship here at my blog.  Let's set our tables in 2013 with great friends, sumptuous meals and beautiful pastry.  Cheers!!

Bench notes:
- Quince compote can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days.  The sponge cake can be made, wrapped in plastic and stored in an airtight container at room temperature one day ahead.  (It also freezes well.)  The crème anglaise can be made one day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
- Be care when peeling and cutting into quinces.  They are very hard and will take steady but careful force.  Use a sharp chef's knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers.  I find them easier to work with if they are first cut into quarters.
- I like a crème anglaise that is less rich than most recipes, so I use whole milk rather than cream.  If you prefer a richer sauce, you can substitute 1 cup half-and-half (or 1/2 cup heavy cream and 1/2 cup milk).



Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise
Makes 8 servings

Poached Quince
3 C water
3/4 C sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split
1/2 cinnamon stick
3" strip of lemon or orange peel, pith removed
2 - 3 quinces

Olive Oil Sponge Cake

Crème Anglaise
1 C whole milk
2 egg yolks
2 T + 2 t sugar
1/8 t - 1/4 t vanilla, to taste

For the quince compote, bring the water, sugar, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and citrus peel to a boil.  Lower heat to a simmer.

Cut the quince into quarters and then peel and core them.  Cut them into 1/2" slices and place in the simmering syrup.  Bring to a boil.  Press a round of parchment paper onto the top of the mixture to hold in the steam.  Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the quinces are tender and have turned a deep rose color, about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.  Cool and transfer the fruit and syrup to a clean airtight container and chill.

Prepare the sponge cake and cool completely.

For the crème anglaise, bring the milk to a simmer.  In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until thoroughly combined.  Add half the warm milk to the yolks and whisk together.  Add remaining milk and whisk thoroughly.  Pour the mixture into the saucepan and return to low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture thickens slightly.  Do not boil.  The sauce is ready when it coats the back of the spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track, about 3 - 4 minutes.  Remove from heat and immediately pour into a clean bowl to stop the cooking.  Add vanilla and cool.

To serve, plate a slice of cake and garnish with thin slices of quince and crème anglaise.

Raspberry Almond Coffee Cake

If you have some brunches with family and friends coming up on your horizon, this is a very easy little brunch cake that will serve 8.  This cake is light, very tender and presents a nice layer of tart raspberries for a bright splash of both flavor and color.  The almonds are a perfect garnish, adding just enough texture and nuttiness to the mix.

The raspberries are macerated in some sugar to sweeten them up and a bit of lemon juice to boost their flavor.  There's buttermilk and melted butter in the cake for extra tenderness.  Along with the jammy fruit, each bite sort of melts in your mouth.

What I like about this cake is it's not heavy or too sweet, so it doesn't ruin your appetite for a full day of festivities.  Add it to your Christmas morning table along with steaming hot coffee and tea and enjoy the start of your holiday.  Cheers!

Bench notes:
- Most commercial cartons of raspberries are equal to 6 oz.
- The raspberries should macerate for about 10 minutes or the time it takes to assemble and mix the remaining ingredients.
- There isn't a lot of batter but you will get two thin layers out of it.
- Be careful when removing the cake from the pan.  It's tender and a bit fragile while still warm.



Raspberry Almond Coffee Cake
Serves 8

6 oz fresh raspberries
2 T sugar
1 t lemon juice

1 C flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
1 egg @ room temperature
1/2 C + 2 T sugar
1/2 C buttermilk @ room temperature
3 oz (6 T) butter, melted
1 t vanilla
1/4 C sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease an 8" cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Combine raspberries, sugar and lemon juice and set aside to macerate.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
In another bowl, whisk the egg, sugar, buttermilk, melted butter and vanilla.  Use a fork to stir in the flour mixture and mix until moistened and there are no streaks of flour.

Spoon a little over half of the batter into the prepared pan, making sure to cover the entire bottom surface.  Top with the raspberry mixture.  Dollop the remaining batter over the raspberries and spread out in an even layer.  There will be some raspberries exposed and that's fine.  Sprinkle with sliced almonds.

Bake until a tester comes out clean, about 30 minutes.  Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes.  Run a thin knife around the edges and gently turn out the cake.  Invert again onto a platter.  Cool.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Honey Spice Loaf

It's been quite a long time since I've had Pain d'Epices, a French spice bread typically made with rye flour, honey and spices with origins that date back to the Napoleonic era.  When I worked in a French bakery, we produced it every week.  The texture is usually dense and it's often served as an accompaniment to savory food at holidays.

This loaf cake is different but somewhat in the same vein, although it has the texture of cake rather than bread.  The focus is really on the interplay between the raisins and the anise seeds, which I think are well matched.  There's a touch of whole wheat flour to keep the taste fairly rustic.  It's plain in nature and would pair well with a smear of soft cream cheese.

In this season of strong flavors and textures, I like the subtle flavor and the soft crumb of this cake.  So while it's a fairly simple and understated composition, I think it's still worthy of a holiday brunch table or afternoon tea or coffee affair when you feel a momentary urge to stray away from the usual seasonal loaf cakes and breads.

Bench notes:
- Plump the raisins by pouring hot simmering water over them and letting them stand for 1/2 hour.  Then place in a strainer and drain for 5 minutes.
- As with most spice cakes and cookies, this tastes better the next day.  The cake will keep for a few days wrapped and placed in an airtight container.

Honey Spice Loaf
Makes 1 loaf

1 1/2 C all-purpose flour
1/2 C whole wheat flour
1 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1 1/2 t cinnamon
1 t ginger
1/2 t anise seeds, crushed
1/8 t allspice
1/8 t cloves
pinch nutmeg
1/2 C canola oil
2 eggs @ room temperature
1/3 C honey
1/2 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C granulated sugar
2 t vanilla
zest of 1/2 orange
1/2 C buttermilk @ room temperature
1/2 C raisins, plumped and drained

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease an 8 1/2" x 4 1/12" loaf pan and line with a piece of parchment paper large enough to form an overhang on both sides along the length of the pan.

Sift together the flours, baking soda, salt and all the spices.

In a separate bowl, whisk together oil, eggs, honey and sugars until smooth.  Add the vanilla and orange zest.  Alternately add a third of the flour mixture and half the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour.  Mix just until the batter is blended and has no streaks of flour.  Stir in plumped and drained raisins.  Pour into prepared pan.

Bake until the cake springs back when lightly touched and a tester comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.  Remove from pan and peel off the parchment.

Pear Cranberry Cobbler

This chilly wet weather seems to be inviting thoughts of comfort food.  And among the most satisfying of comfort foods in the realm of pastry is fruit cobbler, a good old-fashioned spoon dessert.  This is a winterized version with a pear and cranberry filling.  The fruit is tart and spiced with a touch of cardamom.  The biscuit topping is tender and perfect for soaking up the juices.  And it's a welcome dose of bright color in a season of spice cakes and chocolate.

The cobbler is easily tossed together, something you can appreciate if you're beginning to feel the stress of many, many errands.  The fruit is first baked in the oven to soften and release the juices.  Then the biscuits are spun together and placed on top of the bubbling filling and baked until they're golden brown.  Easy, familiar and of the season.  Serve warm for a nice dose of simple comfort in the midst of the rain and all the holiday preparations.

Bench notes:
- Pears should be ripening but firm.  I used D'Anjous.
- I love tart desserts but you may want to sample the fruit halfway through cooking to see if you'd like it sweeter.  Then add sugar accordingly and continue to bake.
- Stir the sour cream before measuring to integrate all the liquids.  You can substitute heavy cream or buttermilk for the sour cream.
- Place the baking dish on top of a baking sheet to catch any potential spillover as the fruit cooks.
- Gild the lily with a scoop of ice cream!



Pear Cranberry Cobbler
Makes 6 servings

3 fresh pears
1 1/2 C fresh cranberries
1/2 C sugar
heaping 1/4 t cardamom
zest of 1/2 orange
1/4 C water

1 C flour
2 T sugar
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/8 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
2 oz (4 T) cold butter
1/2 C sour cream

1/2 T butter, melted
sugar, for dusting

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Lightly butter a deep 9" pie or square baking dish.

For the filling, peel and core the pears and slice into 1/4" wedges.  Place them in the baking dish and toss with the cranberries, sugar, cardamom, orange zest and water.  Cover the dish tightly with foil, place on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes.  Remove the foil and bake for another 20 minutes.

While the fruit is baking, prepare the cobbler biscuits.  Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the flour mixture, tossing to coat each piece.  Using your fingers or a pastry blender, work the butter into the flour until the mixture looks like coarse meal.   Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and add the sour cream into the well.  Using a fork, fluff the flour into the center and gently stir and turn the ingredients.  It will look lumpy and clumpy.

Turn out the dough onto a work surface.  Give it a very gentle kneading.  About 3 - 4 turns should be enough to consolidate it.  Pat into a round about 7 1/2" in diameter and nearly 1 1/2" thick.  Use a 2" or 2 1/2" cutter to form the biscuits.  Gather the scraps and gently press and pat them into an additional biscuit.

When fruit is ready, place the biscuits on top.  Brush the tops with melted butter and sprinkle lightly with sugar.  Bake until the filling is bubbling and the biscuits are golden brown, about 25 - 30 minutes.  Serve warm or at room temperature.