Rustic Chocolate Pie

If you crave a good and unusual chocolate pastry, this is definitely one to add to your list of delicious things to bake.  It's a recipe from Alice Medrich, so you know all the elements are in balance with plenty of deep chocolate buzz.  But I have to say, it sort of defies description.

This "pie" is built upon a very buttery pastry.  It's rolled out into a thin free-form base like a galette and it's very delicate and flaky.  The filling is a billow of meringue folded into melted chocolate and nuts.  Once baked, it's not dense like a truffle or brownie nor soft and airy like a mousse.  It's gooey and rich without being too heavy.  So it's a very offbeat sort of pie.  In fact, it's not really a pie so much as a very simple but interesting composition of pastry, chocolate and nuts that's incredibly easy to compose and super delicious to consume.  And it's fun to set it on your table and slice into it randomly and watch the crumbs fly.

I'm sure you can find an occasion to celebrate the wonders of good chocolate sometime soon.  This is a grand treat sure to elicit sighs of pure pleasure and good cheer.



Bench notes:
- The dough can be made ahead and stored in your refrigerator for 2 - 3 days.  Any longer and it begins to oxidize and discolor.
- I know a lot of people really fear working with pastry doughs.  Handling dough can be trying if you don't have any practice.  But just remember a few important tips: 1) Keep the butter and water very cold.  As you mix, work quickly to make sure the butter doesn't warm up and get soft.  Once the dough is mixed, chill it to relax the gluten, firm up the butter and allow the flour to absorb the moisture.  2) It may seem counterintuitive, but once the dough has been thoroughly chilled, you need to set it out and let it rest for a few minutes at room temperature to warm up enough to roll it out without a lot of resistance and cracking.  So chill it thoroughly but then let it sit at room temperature to take the chill off.  3) Keep your work surface and the surface of the dough lightly floured as you roll it out.  You don't want it to stick at all.  After each roll, lift the dough to make sure it isn't sticking.  Handle it gently and continue to dust with flour.  This is important because I think this is where people begin to get discouraged.  If the dough is sticking, it raises the possibility of tearing, which is very, very frustrating.  So lift it often and keep it lightly dusted with flour.  Once you've rolled it out to the desired shape and size, dust off any excess flour.  I use a 3" wide paint brush with soft bristles.  4) If at any time the dough starts to get too soft, don't hesitate to return it to the refrigerator for a few minutes.  It's important that it remain firm enough to handle without the butter getting warm and softening.  5) For ease of handling, I always roll out doughs on parchment paper.  It makes it easier to form the pastry and then simply slide it onto a baking sheet without having to lift the dough and risk stretching, tearing or misshaping.  Once you've made a few doughs with these tips in mind, you'll find your own zone with tarts, pies and galettes.  It just takes some practice to get the feel for the right temperatures and a light touch.
- There's a good ratio of butter in this dough but oddly it doesn't take on much browning at all even though it's pre-baked at 400 degrees.  The temperature gets lowered to 350 degrees once the filling is added but it only bakes for 10 additional minutes.
- I used a mix of 4 oz of semisweet chocolate and 2 oz of bittersweet.  Alice Medrich suggests either bittersweet or semisweet but also says the chocolate you choose shouldn't exceed 62%.
- Egg whites are 1 oz each so if you have a stash, weigh out 2 oz.
- Nuts are definitely important for texture and flavor.
- Bake for just 10 minutes so the interior is gooey.  The surface should look dry and a bit shiny and may look slightly cracked in places but still have a soft interior.
- The recipe suggests 3 tablespoons of toasted pine nuts and chocolate shavings as optional garnishes.  I just used a portion of the same nuts I folded into the filling.



Rustic Chocolate Pie
adapted from Alice Medrich for Better Homes & Garden
Makes 10 servings

3/4 C flour
1/4 t salt
2 1/2 oz (5 T) cold butter
1 1/2 T - 2 T cold water [I used 2 T]

6 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
2 egg whites at room temperature
1/8 t cream of tartar
1/4 C sugar
1/8 t salt
1/2 t vanilla
3/4 C chopped pecans or walnuts

For the crust, toss together the flour and salt.  Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the flour, tossing to coat the butter thoroughly.  With a pastry blender or your fingers, incorporate the butter into the flour until you have some larger pieces the size of pine nuts and smaller pieces that resemble coarse bread crumbs.  Don't let the butter get too soft or blend completely into the flour.  Drizzle the cold water over the flour mixture.  Toss and mix just until moist enough to hold together when pressed. Turn out onto a piece of plastic wrap.  Gather and consolidate the dough into a flat disc.  Wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes or up to 3 days.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Unwrap the pastry dough and place on a floured piece of parchment or work surface.  Let it sit for a few minutes at room temperature until pliable enough to roll without cracking.  Roll the dough out to a 14" x 9" oval about an 1/8" thick.  Brush off excess flour.  If you didn't roll it out on parchment, fold the dough in half to transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silpat.  Unfold the dough and loosely roll up the edges to form a rimmed crust without pinching or pressing too firmly.

Bake 10 - 12 minutes or until you see some browning.  The crust edge will still be a little raw inside.  Place on a wire rack.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

For the filling, chop the chocolate into small pieces and place in a heatproof bowl.  Place the bowl on top of a pan of barely simmering shallow water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn't touching the water.  Stir until the chocolate is melted.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until opaque and soft peaks form.  Gradually add sugar and salt.  Beat until the whites form stiff peaks that are not dry, adding the vanilla in the last few seconds.  Fold the whipped egg whites into the melted chocolate until it is nearly blended.  Add the nuts and fold until there are no streaks.

Dollop the filling onto the baked crust and spread evenly to the edges.  Bake for 10 minutes.  Cool on a wire rack.  Garnish the top with extra nuts and serve warm or cool.

Ginger Chocolate Cookies

I am a very big fan of ginger in any form - simple ginger cakes, ginger upside-down cakes with pears or plums or apples, ginger ice cream, ginger custard or ginger cookies.  And whether it's powdered ginger, crystallized ginger, freshly grated ginger or a halting combination of all three, I love the spicy explosion it introduces to pastries and desserts.

As we approach the holidays, it's time to get our cookie act together.  And since it's the fall season, spices are never far from our reach, along with chocolate.  So this cookie is a celebration of all these things.  It's a chewy cookie with crispy edges and each bite brings a different sensation.  It's either a pop of crystallized ginger, a gooey hit of dark bittersweet chocolate or a punch of salt.  I find it very satisfying, especially if you hit all three.



Bench notes:
- I like bittersweet chocolate in these cookies.  If you prefer a sweeter cookie, use semisweet.
- You can find less expensive crystallized ginger at bulk groceries or Trader Joe's.
- I use a #40 ice cream scoop to portion the cookie dough.  It speeds up the process and creates uniform cookies.  (The #40 refers to 40 scoops per quart.)
- If you have the time, scoop the cookies, place them all together on a smaller 1/4 baking sheet, wrap with plastic and place in the refrigerator to firm them up before baking.
- If you're a ginger fan, check out Plum Ginger Upside-Down Cake, Gingerbread Shortcake with Pears and Ginger Ice Cream.



Ginger Chocolate Cookies
Makes 3 dozen cookies

2 C flour
1 T cocoa powder
2 t baking soda
2 t powdered ginger
2 t cinnamon
1/2 t salt
pinch freshly ground black pepper
4 oz (8 T) butter, melted
3/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/4 C molasses
1 egg
2/3 C crystallized ginger, finely chopped
4 oz bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line two baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Sift the flour, cocoa, baking soda, spices, salt and pepper.

Combine the melted butter, sugars, molasses and egg until thoroughly blended.   Stir in the flour mixture.  Add the chopped ginger and chocolate.

Scoop the cookie dough into 1 tablespoon portions and form into balls.  Place 12 on each baking sheet.

Bake for 10 - 12 minutes.  Cool on a wire rack before removing from pan.  Store in an airtight container.

Pineapple Rum Upside-Down Cakes

Today I'm re-visiting Pineapple Upside Down Cake, that old stand-by and household favorite originating in the 20s and popularized in the 50s.  It appeared on many a dessert and pot-luck table all across America for decades.  It was an easy cake baked in a skillet that, once inverted, impressed everyone with its glistening sweet pineapple and bright red cherries.

This isn't your mom's Pineapple Upside Down Cake.  I thought I'd do something a little different and fun with it so I used fresh pineapple, skipped the cherries, added some booze and made individual servings.  The cake is very tender and moist with a touch of rum to liven up the party.  The topping is the usual brown sugar and butter blend but with a splash of rum, a 1/2 vanilla bean and a pinch of salt.  The tart acidic fruit is bathed in the traditional caramel flavor just as before but with a bit of depth and a little contrast added.  The aroma is big and inviting.

Next time you'd like a little flashback to another era but with a modern twist, have a slice of this rum version.  It's an especially good treat to warm your spirits on a chilly night.

Bench notes:
- You'll need a medium-sized fresh pineapple or about 20 oz if you prefer to use canned.
- I use a large ice cream scoop to portion the batter.
- The recipe could just as easily be made into one 9" cake to serve 8 people.  Bake for about 45 - 50 minutes or until a tester comes out clean.
- This cake would also be great topped with fresh pear or apples.

Pineapple Rum Upside-Down Cakes
Serves 6

Topping
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/2 vanilla bean
3/4 C brown sugar, packed
2 T rum
pinch salt
2 C chopped pineapple

Cake
1 1/2 C flour
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
4 oz (8T) butter @ room temperature
3/4 C granulated sugar
2 eggs @ room temperature
2 T rum
1 1/2 t vanilla
1/2 C milk @ room temperature

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease the sides of six 4 1/2" diameter ramekins.

To make the topping, place 2 oz of butter in a saucepan.  Split and scrape the seeds from vanilla bean and add to the butter along with the casing.  Melt the butter over low heat.  Add brown sugar and cook, whisking to combine, for about 2 - 3 minutes.  Whisk in rum and a pinch of salt and remove from heat.  Distribute evenly to each of the ramekins.  Arrange chopped pineapple on top of the sugar mixture.  Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and set aside.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt.  Combine rum and vanilla with the milk.

Beat the butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy.  Add eggs one at a time, beating well and scraping down the bowl after each addition.   Add a third of the flour mixture alternately with half the milk, beginning and ending with the flour.  Mix just until blended, scraping down the bowl and incorporating everything together.  Portion batter over pineapple and brown sugar topping and spread to the edges.  Bake until golden and a test comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Place on a wire rack and cool for 10 minutes.  Invert the cakes onto serving dishes and cool.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Pumpkin Pecan Madeleines

I have some fun news to share and it's about Madeleines, those little French teacakes that everyone seems to find irresistible.  Chronicle Books has a new cookbook release on October 17th entitled, We Love Madeleines.  It's a compilation of all kinds of Madeleine recipes and I'm delighted to say they've included my Chocolate Olive Oil Madeleines in the collection.  I love this recipe with its great mix of chocolate, extra virgin olive oil and salt, so I was very pleased when I was contacted about using it in the book.

We Love Madeleines is Chronicle's first crowd-sourced cookbook.  There are 40 recipes that range from Molasses Spice, Apple Buckwheat with Sea Salt Caramel and a savory Rosemary Parmesan Polenta.  It also features gluten-free and vegan options and a chapter on glazes, dips and toppings.  I'll be trying out some of these in the not-too-distant future.

In the spirit of this new book as well as the arrival of pumpkin season, I thought I'd put together some Pumpkin Pecan Madeleines.  Madeleines are usually made in the genoise tradition, which means the eggs and sugar are whisked to a ribbon stage.  I didn't stray too far from my basic formulation, so they are light, moist and subtle in flavor.   For this recipe, once the mixture has reached full volume, I add vanilla and 1/4 cup pumpkin and then garnish with a good dose of spiced sugar and finely chopped pecans.  The result is a moist little teacake with edges that are crispy and chewy and an interior that is spongy and soft.  While I also appreciate all the pumpkin loaves and cakes of the season, this is a nice alternative you can bake when you have extra pumpkin puree on your hands.  Bon Appetit!

Bench notes:
- The recipe instructions are for a stand mixer.  If you're using a hand mixer, it will take a bit longer to get the eggs and sugar to the ribbon stage.  To test, lift the beaters about 6" and let the ribbons of batter fall to the surface.  If they hold for a second, it's ready.
- If you have an orange on hand, you might consider adding a smidgeon of zest.
- I use a small #40 ice cream scoop that is perfect for forming cookie doughs to portion the batter.  The wells should be nearly full.
- Madeleines are best eaten the same day.



Pumpkin Pecan Madeleines
Makes 20 Madeleines

3/4 C flour
1/2 t baking powder
scant 1/4 t salt
1/4 t cinnamon
pinch of ginger
3 oz (6 T) butter
2 eggs
1/4 C + 2 T granulated sugar
3 T dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 t vanilla
1/4 C pumpkin

2 T sugar
1/4 t cinnamon
pinch allspice
pinch cloves
2 T finely chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Generously butter a Madeleine pan.  Lightly dust with flour and knock out the excess.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and spices.  Melt the butter and set aside to cool.

Beat eggs and both sugars until thickened and batter falls in ribbons when whisk is lifted, about 5 minutes.  Add vanilla and pumpkin and blend.  Take off the mixer and fold in the flour by hand in 3 additions.  Fold in one-third of the butter until combined.  Fold in another third and then fold in the remainder and mix thoroughly.

Combine 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and a pinch of allspice and clove.

Portion the batter in the madeleine pan.  Dust generously with spiced sugar and garnish with pecans.  Bake until the cakes spring back when touched and the edges are darkened, about 11 - 13 minutes.  Let them cool for 1 minute and then use a small spatula or knife to dislodge them.  Cool completely on a wire rack.  Repeat with remaining batter.

Spicy Caramel Pear Ice Cream

A few weeks ago I wrote about some Spicy Caramel Pears from David Lebovitz that I paired with chocolate cake.  The pears are baked in an intoxicating sauce of butter and brown sugar along with a warm complement of cognac or brandy.  There's also a healthy dose of cinnamon, cloves, star anise and pepper for lots of depth and complexity.  Once they're baked to a soft and juicy texture, the sauce is finished with a splash of cream to give it a touch of luxury.  It's a great aromatic pear dessert made even better when served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

I always find the transition between seasons to be sort of slow pokey.  It takes me a while to shift from one set of seasonal pastry and dessert ideas and ingredients to the next.  But with each successive visit to the markets I start to shift gears.  And since pears are the fruit of the moment and I happen to really love pears, I decided to re-visit David's easy and delicious recipe and turn the baked pears into this spicy caramel pear ice cream.  And it was ridiculously easy to do!  I simply took the baked pears and the sauce and pureed them in my trusty food processor.  Then I added more cream, a balance of milk, some lemon juice and a good pinch of salt.  The result of this little excursion is some really good ice cream and a house that smells incredible with the warm spices of the season.  It's another good way to enjoy David's inspired pear dessert and definitely make the shift to fall.

Bench notes:
- Pears should be ripe but firm so they'll be tender and juicy for perfect flavor and texture.
- Depending on the size of your pears and the amount of the resulting puree, add the cream and milk, lemon juice and salt to your own taste.
- You can certainly make this all in one day but I did it in three stages.  I first baked the pears and let them sit overnight with the sauce to encourage the spices to flourish.  The next day, I pureed the pears with the sauce and added the remaining ingredients.  I let that chill overnight.  The next day I churned the ice cream.



Spicy Caramel Pear Ice Cream
Makes about 1 1/2 - 2 pints

Spicy Caramel Pears
adapted from Room for Dessert by David Lebovitz

2 oz (4 T) butter
1/2 C light or dark brown sugar, packed [I like dark]
15 whole cloves
2 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
1/2 t black peppercorns
1/4 C Cognac, brandy or rum [I used rum]
4 pears, Comice or Bosc [I used D'Anjou]
1/4 C heavy cream

For the Ice Cream
1 1/2 C - 2 C heavy cream, to taste
1/2 C - 1 C milk, to taste
2 t lemon juice, to taste
pinch salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Choose a baking dish large enough to hold the sliced pears in a single layer.

Cut the butter into small pieces and place it in the baking dish with the brown sugar.  Set the dish in the oven for a few minutes until the butter is melted.  Crush the whole spices by placing them in a plastic bag and pounding with a rolling pin.  Peel and core the pears and cut them into quarters.

Remove the dish from the oven and add the crushed spices and liquor.  Stir to combine all the ingredients.  Add the pears and toss everything together to coat the fruit.  Arrange pears in a single layer.  Cover the dish with foil and bake for 30 - 45 minutes, depending on the size and firmness of your pears.  The pears should be easily pierced with a knife but not mushy.  Stir and baste them a couple of times during baking so they're evenly coated with the sauce.

Remove the pears from the oven and lift them out of the cooking liquid and onto a plate to cool.  Scrape all the juices and spices from the baking dish into a saute pan.  Add 1/4 cup cream and cook over medium heat until the mixture turns a deep color, thickens and caramelizes.  Strain the finished sauce into the bowl of a food processor and let it cool.

Add the pears to the food processor and process with the sauce until you have a smooth puree.  Pour into a bowl and whisk in the cream and milk to taste, depending on how much puree you have and how you want to balance the richness.  Then add lemon juice and salt to taste.  Start with the lower end of suggested amounts and keep adding and adjusting these last ingredients until you have the right strength of flavor and a balance of sweet, fat (mouthfeel determined by the ratio of cream and milk) and brightness (lemon juice and salt).  Pour into an airtight container and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze according to your ice cream machine's instructions.  Pour into a clean airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

Whole Wheat Apple Spice Cake

With the onset of fall, this is the season for apples and spice.  It also feels like a good time to invite the wholesome goodness of whole wheat flour.  With a chill in the air and evenings soon scheduled to arrive a bit earlier, there's plenty of reason to warm up the kitchen with the scent of a spice cake baking in the oven.

Baking with whole wheat flour isn't what it used to be.  With access to better quality flour and more balanced ingredient ratios found in today's recipes, whole wheat pastries no longer suffer from being too heavy, too dense and too dry.  And that means the flavor is much improved as well.

Thankfully, apple cakes have many lives.  There are so many great versions and traditions to choose from.  Here the apples are baked in familiar upside down fashion with brown sugar.  Cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and molasses lend character and complexity to the cake batter along with the flour.  This is one way to welcome the oncoming fall harvest.  If you're like me, there can never be too many apple cakes.



Bench notes:
- I used Fuji apples.
- The ground wheat germ in whole wheat flour contains oil that can become rancid over time.  Whole wheat flour will keep 1 - 3 months at room temperature.  For longer storage, place it in an airtight container or freezer bag in your refrigerator.  It will maintain good quality for about 6 months in the refrigerator and up to 12 months in the freezer.  If you store it in the freezer, bring it to room temperature before use.  The very cold temperature of frozen flour will discourage the baking properties of yeast or baking powder.
- I like King Arthur Traditional Whole Wheat Flour for its superb flavor and easy availability.  It's milled from the hard red spring wheat of the northern Great Plains and uses 100% of the wheat berry, which provides the full flavor and nutrients of the bran and the wheat germ.  I think it's the best of its kind.
- Now is a good time to take stock of your spice collection.  Check to see if you have everything you need for holiday baking and whether your spices are fresh.



Whole Wheat Apple Spice Cake
Serves 8 - 10

2 apples
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
pinch cinnamon

1 C whole wheat flour
1/2 C all-purpose flour
3/4 t baking powder
3/4 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t allspice
pinch nutmeg
1/2 C canola oil
3/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C molasses
2 eggs @ room temperature
1 t vanilla
1/2 C buttermilk @ room temperature

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a 9" x 2 1/2" cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Peel, core and cut apples into 1/2" slices.  Place in a bowl and toss with the brown sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.  Set aside.

Sift flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices together.

Whisk the oil, brown sugar, molasses, eggs and vanilla together until thoroughly blended.  Add a third of the flour mixture alternately with half the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour.  Mix until completely combined and there are no streaks of flour.

Arrange the apples in the prepared pan along with their juices.  Pour the cake batter evenly on top of the apples and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to release any air bubbles.

Bake 28 - 30 minutes or until a tester comes out clean.  Cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack.  Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake.  Place a platter on top and invert the cake.  Carefully remove the parchment and cool completely.