Chocolate Hazelnut Jam Tart

It’s time for a rush of chocolate and whenever I think of chocolate I more often than not think of hazelnuts. It’s a deep default association I have due to my affection for gianduja, the Italian perfection. While chocolate pairs so terrifically with lots of wonderful nuts and fruit and spice, in my world hazelnuts are one of the great stars in this line-up.

My tart starts with a hazelnut spice pastry shell into which a layer of barely baked chocolate is nestled. And in keeping with my ever present desire for fruit, I add a thin layer of homemade blackberry preserves from the peak of last summer. The crumbly and nutty texture of the pastry conspires with the oozy gooey chocolate and jammy fruit to create a rich bite of dessert to please each of the chocolate lovers in your circle.



Bench notes:
- Toast 1 1/4 cups of hazelnuts in a single layer in a 350 degree oven for about 10 to 15 minutes or until lightly browned and the skins look cracked. Watch them carefully as hazelnuts can turn bitter if toasted too long. Remove from the oven and wrap the hazelnuts in a kitchen towel to let steam for 1 minute. Then rub them together to loosen and remove as much of the skin as possible. Cool completely.
- Melt the chocolate and butter in a bowl over a bain marie (or water bath) that is at a very low and slow simmer to prevent scorching.
- The egg yolks for the filling should be at room temperature, but don’t crack them until you’re ready to use them or they will form a skin.
- You can omit the preserves or add your own favorite, such as raspberry, apricot, black currant, plum or fig. Or maybe tuck in a small dab of caramel or some sliced bananas. When fresh berries are in season, they would be perfect. You can also add a little splash of rum, brandy, port or liqueur to the filling for another dimension if you so choose. Just add to the ingredients to be melted over the bain marie.



Chocolate Hazelnut Jam Tart
Serves 10

Hazelnut Tart Dough

1 C flour
3/4 C toasted hazelnuts
1/4 C sugar
1/4 t salt
1/2 t cinnamon
zest of 1 medium orange
4 oz (1 stick) cold butter
1 egg yolk
1 t vanilla

Chocolate Filling

6 oz bittersweet chocolate
4 oz (1 stick) butter
1/4 t salt
3 egg yolks
1/3 C sugar

generous 1/3 C fruit preserves
1/2 C toasted hazelnuts, chopped

For the pastry dough, place the flour, hazelnuts, sugar, salt, cinnamon and orange zest in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the nuts are pretty finely ground. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the flour mixture. Pulse just a few times until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg yolk and vanilla and pulse just until the dough begins to clump. Pour out onto a piece of parchment or plastic and gather the clumps together with your hands until the dough is smooth.

Press the dough into a thin even layer of a 9” tart pan or 6 individual tartlet pans. Place in refrigerator until completely chilled.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line the tart shell with parchment and weights and bake for about 20 – 25 minutes or until lightly browned and crisp. Remove from oven and cool. Spread a thin even layer of jam over the bottom of the tart shell.

Lower the oven to 325 degrees.

To make the filling, chop the chocolate and butter into small pieces and place in a heatproof bowl along with the salt. Place the bowl over a slow simmering water bath, stirring gently to combine. Once the mixture has melted, remove from heat and cool.

Using the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and sugar on medium high a few minutes until the mixture is thickened, very light in color and tripled in volume. It should hold a ribbon for a few seconds before dissolving back into the bowl. Gently fold about a third of the egg yolk mixture into the chocolate. Fold in remaining yolk mixture. Pour into the tart shell. Garnish with chopped hazelnuts, gently pressing down just a bit to secure them.

Bake for about 10 - 11 minutes until the surface of the chocolate is a bit dull and only slightly puffed. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Custard Tartlets

It’s hard to describe how incredibly, mind-numbingly good these little Custard Tartlets are. They look innocent enough, nothing more than a flaky buttery crust with some luscious pastry cream tucked inside. But oooh-me-oooh-my do they ever pack a ton of flavor and satisfaction in a very little bite. I’ve never considered myself a custard person, but that may be about to change.

I’ve been wanting to make these for a long time, but just never made a point of doing it. Since my two best dim sum buddies were coming to dinner, I realized I must try to duplicate their favorite little nibble at the end of our Sunday morning feasts. Now I’m wondering what took me so long to experience this magic. Sometimes the simplest things are the best. It’s no wonder that some version of them are found in many different cultures. They are even said to have been served at the coronation banquet of King Henry IV in 1399. I think I now very clearly understand the expression, fit for a king!

Bench notes:
- You can make both the pastry dough and the cream and store in the refrigerator overnight.
- When rolling out the pastry, always rotate the dough after each roll to make sure it isn't sticking. Gently lift with a dough scraper or spatula if necessary. A piece of parchment helps to cut down on the amount of flour you use.
- This is a luscious pastry cream that you could use on its own unbaked. Creamy with great flavor, it can serve as a filling for cakes or a little garnish for cookies and fruits. The rum adds a richness without tasting of alcohol.
- These tartlets should be eaten on the same day they are baked.

Custard Tartlets
Makes 12 tartlets

Pâte Brisée

1 1/4 C flour
1 t sugar
1/4 t salt
4 oz (1 stick) cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Pastry Cream

1 C milk
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
3 yolks
1 T cornstarch
1 t flour
1/2 t vanilla
1 t rum
1/2 T butter

For the dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and combine. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add. Pulse a few times just until the butter is in small pea-sized pieces and the mixture resembles a very coarse meal. Add the cold water and pulse just until the mixture starts to clump. Pour the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and gather it into a flattened disc. Wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours or overnight.

Place the dough on a piece of parchment or work surface lightly dusted with flour. Let it sit for a few minutes to take the chill off. Roll out to a thin sheet, nearly 1/16" or so. Cut out a dozen 3 1/2” circles and tuck each into a standard muffin pan. Chill while you make the pastry cream.

Place the milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until combined. Add the cornstarch and flour and whisk thoroughly.
Pour about half the warm milk into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour the remaining milk and combine thoroughly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly for a couple of minutes until thickened and smooth.
Take off the heat and add the vanilla, rum and butter. Stir until smooth.
Place a piece of plastic on the surface and let cool.

Preheat the over to 350 degrees.
Prick the bottom of the tart shells with a fork. Bake for about 12 minutes or until slightly browned and crisp.

Remove from the oven and scoop the pastry cream into the pastry shells.
Bake for about 20 - 25 minutes.

Eat them quickly before you have a chance to come to your senses.

Winter Fruit Crisp

There are some really lovely pears and apples in abundance right now. The pears I bought were especially succulent to eat as is, but since it’s been raining and overcast for several days over the last week, it’s time to conjure up a simple and comforting winter harvest dessert to shake the cold!

This Winter Fruit Crisp is a version made mostly of ingredients out of our good old-fashioned American pantry. To start, I use apples and pears tossed with lemon juice. Since I love tart things, I added a handful of dried cranberries. But for a spot of intrigue, I decided to throw in a few chopped dates, which are cooked for a couple of minutes with brown sugar, the spicy warmth of cinnamon and cardamom, a splash of Amontillado sherry, a perk of orange zest and finished with a dab of butter, all of which conspire to create a very lovely spicy caramel. For textural contrast, the streusel topping includes some oatmeal and walnuts.

The proportion and blending of these flavors and textures really plays out beautifully. Each bite has layers of luscious fruit, heady spice and soft, chewy, crunchy texture. The aromas and flavors that emanate from each spoon are very much in keeping with the season. It’s rustic and familiar but in a very different and delicious way, a quintessentially winter treat so good you could certainly offer it to your best friend. Or anybody you’d like to be your best friend. As the rain beats on our windows, light the fireplace and curl up with this Winter Fruit Crisp for a kind and soothing song of warmth and comfort.

Bench notes:
- Pears should be ripe but firm. I used D’anjou pears and Fuji apples.
- I used a Lustau Amontillado Los Arcos Sherry, which has a roasted nut bouquet and a trace of caramel.
- You could certainly omit the walnuts in the streusel, but they really do add a great earthy/toasty goodness.



Winter Fruit Crisp
Serves 6

3 apples
2 ripe pears
2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice (1 lemon)
1/4 C granulated sugar
2 T flour

1/2 C Amontillado sherry
3 T water
1/4 C brown sugar
zest of 1 orange
3/4 t ground cinnamon
1/2 t cardamom
pinch of salt
1 T butter
6 medjool dates, diced into small pieces
2/3 C dried cranberries

For the topping:

1/3 C flour
1/3 C light brown sugar, only lightly packed
1/4 t salt
1/2 C oatmeal
1/4 t cinnamon
1/2 t orange zest
1/2 C walnuts, chopped into small pieces
2 oz (1/2 stick) butter, diced into small pieces

6 4” ramekins or 1 9” baking dish

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

To make the topping, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, salt, oatmeal, cinnamon, orange zest and chopped walnuts. Place the butter in the mixture and work it in with your fingers until the mixture is combined into large crumbles. Set aside.

Peel, core and cut the apples and pears into medium-sized chunks. Place the fruit in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice, granulated sugar and flour.

Place sherry, water, brown sugar, orange zest, spices and salt in a saucepan over low heat. Bring to a boil for about 2 or 3 minutes, stirring. Add the chopped dates and dried cranberries and lower heat. Cook for another minute or two to blend flavors. Cool for a couple of minutes, then gently toss together with the apples and pears until all ingredients are combined.

Divide the fruit into 6 ramekins or pour into a baking dish. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit and out to the edges of the dish so the fruit is completely covered.

Place the baking dish on a sheet pan and bake for about 30 minutes, until the topping is browned and the fruit is bubbling vigorously. Serve warm.

Ancho Ice Cream with Dark Chocolate Cake

The use of spicy chile powders in desserts is nothing new. There are all kinds of delicious cakes, cookies, truffles and ice cream that incorporate the kick of chile. Most of the time they include chocolate, but I thought I’d work on spicing up a vanilla ice cream because I wanted to see if I could get a true chile flavor that would be enhanced by a chocolate component. Since I love the taste of chile, I wanted to be able to distinguish the chile flavor on its own.

This recipe is inspired by all those tasty adventures. I start with a simple vanilla ice cream that contains a dusting of ancho and chipotle chile powders. It’s an intriguing combo that introduces a really wonderful smokiness with a little kick of heat in a creamy base. And when it cozies up to the chocolate, the full effect is remarkable. This is a very adventurous way to enjoy a nearly seamless blend of all the amazing sensations of spice, heat, deep dark cocoa and vanilla. It’s been one of my favorite recent experiments.


Bench notes:
- I used 1 teaspoon of ancho chile powder and 1/2 teaspoon of chipotle chile powder. I think it’s the right level of heat and I love the luscious and complex smokiness that the chipotle brings to the combination. But every palate is different, so add a bit of the chile powders at a time and see what you think. It’s going to increase in intensity as it sits in the base overnight but the flavor of the ice cream also mellows out nicely over time in the freezer.
- If you don’t want to make the cake, try the ice cream with the Chocolate Sauce.
- I can also imagine this ice cream with a light caramel drizzle.
- The high ratio of sugar to butter in the cake recipe requires you to cream the mixture for about 6 to 7 minutes until it is light in color and fluffy in texture. At first you’ll wonder how it’s going to come together but it will. Honest!
- I added 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon to the cake recipe in keeping with the theme.


Ancho Ice Cream with Dark Chocolate Cake

Ancho Ice Cream

1 1/2 C whole milk
2/3 C sugar
pinch salt
5 yolks
1 1/2 C heavy cream, chilled
1/2 t vanilla extract
1 t Ancho chile powder, to taste
1/4 t – 1/2 t chipotle chile powder, to taste

Combine the milk, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat slowly over low heat, until the sugar is dissolved and the milk is steaming a bit, stirring to fully combine.

Whisk the yolks in another bowl.

Take off the heat and add some of the hot liquid into the egg yolks. Whisk constantly to combine and temper the two elements. Add the remaining milk and whisk thoroughly. Return to the saucepan and cook on low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof rubber spatula until it begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon, leaving a clean trace.

Remove from heat and strain into the cold heavy cream, whisking to mix and cool. Add the vanilla extract and the chile powders, tasting as you go. Cover and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Freeze in your ice cream maker. Pour into a clean airtight container, press a piece of plastic into the surface, cover and place in the freezer to firm up.

Devil’s Food Cake
adapted from The Simple Art of Perfect Baking by Flo Braker

Makes 1 8” cake

1 C cake flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/8 t salt
1/4 t cinnamon (optional)
1/4 C cocoa powder
1/4 C lukewarm water
2 oz (4 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/2 C brown sugar
1 t vanilla
1 egg @ room temperature
1/4 C buttermilk @ room temperature
1/4 C water

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Prepare an 8” cake pan with butter, parchment and a very light dusting of flour.

Sift together flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon.
Whisk cocoa and water together until thoroughly blended.
Combine buttermilk, vanilla and water.

Cream butter and slowly add sugars. Cream mixture until light and fluffy, about 6 to 7 minutes on a stand mixer. Stop and scrape down the bowl at regular intervals.
Add egg and blend well. Scrape down the bowl.
Add cocoa mixture and combine thoroughly.
Gently add dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Stop mixing just before it is fully blended and finish by folding gently with a rubber spatula until there are no streaks. Be careful not to over mix. Pour into prepared pan and smooth batter evenly.

Bake @ 350 for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering. Cool 10 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife around the edges to loosen and turn out the cake. Cool completely.

Chocolate Sauce

1 C water
3/4 C sugar
3/4 C cocoa
1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C heavy cream
1/4 t salt, to taste

Bring water and sugar to a boil to dissolve. Add cocoa and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil for about 3 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent scorching. Once it has thickened, remove from heat and add vanilla and cream. Add salt to taste. Cool.

Whole Wheat Honey Cake

It’s back to basics. Although I’ve been reading various predictions about the latest food trends for the coming year, lately I’ve been more in the mood to keep things pretty basic. It’s been great to see a resurgence of wholesome ingredients over the last decade and I think as we begin a new one, it would be especially nice to start off with a rather simple but extraordinary Whole Wheat Cake. And in keeping with the theme, I’ve sweetened it with honey. Nothing could be more simply satisfying.

Whole wheat pastries of the past have often suffered from being too dense or dry, but I think recipe development using whole wheat flours has improved dramatically. For this cake, I use King Arthur Traditional Whole Wheat Flour for its superb flavor and easy availability. It’s milled from the hard red spring wheat of the northern Great Plains and uses 100% of the wheat berry, which provides the full flavor and nutrients of the bran and germ. I think it’s the best of its kind out there and I highly recommend it.

I also use honey to sweeten the cake. There are over 300 types of honey produced in the United States and it’s a great pleasure to explore so many distinctive varieties. One of my favorite indulgences is sourwood honey, which is widely regarded as the queen bee of honey. Tupelo, lavender, sage and eucalyptus are also favorites. Use your own favorite in this recipe.

If you’re in the mood to return back to the basics, I think you’ll find this pastry a beautiful reminder of the delicious goodness of quality whole wheat flour.



Bench Notes:
- I think this cake is very nice on its own. Once you try it, you’ll find it could also serve as a great basic palette for other natural complements. I think it would be really delicious with a fresh blackberry coulis or fresh fig compote in spring and summer or sautéed apples or pears or bananas in winter. You can top with sliced almonds for extra texture or add a pinch of spice to the batter. But do try it plain to see how it strikes you.
- The ground wheat germ in whole wheat flour contains oil that can become rancid over a long period of time. Whole wheat flour will keep 1 to 3 months at room temperature. For longer storage, place it in an airtight container or freezer bag in your refrigerator. It will maintain good quality for about 6 months in the refrigerator and up to 12 months in the freezer. If you place it in the freezer, be sure to bring it to room temperature before using it. The very cold temperature of frozen flour will discourage the baking properties of yeast or baking powder.


Whole Wheat Honey Cake

1 1/4 C whole wheat flour
1/4 C all-purpose flour
1 1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
4 oz (1 stick) butter @ room temperature
1/4 C sugar
1/2 C honey
1 t vanilla
2 eggs @ room temperature
1/2 C buttermilk @ room temperature

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour an 8” x 2 ” cake pan.
Sift flours, baking powder and salt together.

Cream butter and sugar until thoroughly combined. Add honey and beat until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add vanilla and blend.

Beat in eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition.

Add a third of the flour mixture alternately with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape down the bowl to be sure everything is incorporated. Do not overmix. Pour into prepared pan and spread into an even surface with a spatula.

Bake for about 35-37 minutes until a toothpick tests clean. Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen cake. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Invert cake, turn right side up and place on the rack until completely cool.

Honey Glaze

1/4 C honey
2 T water
pinch salt
1/2 T butter
1 C confectioner’s sugar, sifted
2 T fresh lemon juice, to taste

Place the honey, water and salt in a saucepan and warm over low heat until dissolved and blended. Whisk in the butter. Remove from heat and whisk in the confectioner’s sugar. Add lemon juice to taste. Place cake on platter and top with the glaze.

Chocolate Olive Oil Madeleines

The beginning of a new year always brings along with it some time to reflect on all the possibilities that lie ahead. If you find yourself sitting at your kitchen table gazing out the window and ruminating over last year’s accomplishments and this year’s opportunities, you just might enjoy some company. I highly recommend a Chocolate Olive Oil Madeleine to go along with your reverie. Not exactly Proustian, but every bit as delicious and enjoyable and thought-provoking.

The marriage of dark chocolate, extra virgin olive oil and salt is a miraculous one. Somehow these three ingredients have managed a rendezvous that can only be described as a thing of unique beauty. The complex earthy richness of cocoa blended with the rich bright lusciousness of extra virgin olive oil is only brought to a higher level with a generous pinch of salt. To make the best of it, I chose to highlight these ingredients in a simple recipe for madeleines to keep the flavors pure and easy without a lot of extra frill.

The recipe can be assembled in just a few minutes. If you love the sprightly tango of chocolate and fruity olive oil, these petite cakes will brighten your step. Here's to great memories!


Bench notes:
- I used California Olive Ranch Arbosana Extra Virgin Olive Oil for this recipe and it is perfect. It’s refined yet assertive enough to complement the cocoa. The results are really delicious.
- These bake pretty fast, so keep your eye on them. Mine baked in 11 minutes. The cakes should spring back when lightly tapped.
- Salt is very important in chocolate recipes. It really enhances the flavor considerably. I used 1/8 teaspoon of salt in the mixing and then added about half as much again when I tasted the batter. So I recommend that you slowly keep adding salt to taste once you have the batter blended.
- Madeleines are meant to be eaten the same day.


Chocolate Olive Oil Madeleines

1/2 C flour
1/4 C cocoa powder
1/2 t baking powder
1/8 t salt + another generous pinch, to taste
2 eggs @ room temperature
1/2 C sugar
1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously grease a madeleine pan.

Sift the flour, cocoa powder, salt and baking powder. Beat the eggs until thoroughly blended. Slowly add the sugar and continue beating until the mixture is thick and pale, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the flour mixture until just combined. Fold in olive oil. Taste for additional salt.

Scoop into madeleine pan and bake for 10 to 12 minutes.

Cool the pan for a few minutes and then flip out the madeleines.