Yogurt & Banana Caramel Mousse

I love mousse. I love the light airiness that seems to float off the spoon. I love that it’s such a great medium to showcase simple ingredients. So when I heard about an interesting way to make banana caramel, I immediately thought it might be a great thing to try as the base for a mousse.

Caramel syrups and sauces are some of the basic tools of pastry. Making caramel can be tricky until you’ve put in some practice to learn how it works. After working for a pastry chef who used caramel quite a bit to flavor lots of different dessert elements, I really got comfortable with it because I had to make it every day. Since caramel adds such a wonderful flavor to so many pastries and desserts and can be flavored in a number of different ways, I hope you’ll try to master its production.

Once you’re able to recognize the size of the bubbles forming on the surface to gauge when it’s ready to color, how quickly it cooks from that point forward and how dark it should go, it’s really pretty simple. It’s also important to bear in mind the darker the caramel, the less sweet and more complex the flavor. But take it too far and it will taste burnt and bitter.

Here are some simple suggestions and techniques to produce caramel:

• I use medium high heat and watch it closely.

• To prevent crystallization, have a glass of water and a pastry brush handy to wash down the sides of the pan a couple of times as the sugar is heating up.

• Once caramel starts to get near the right color, there are 2 ways to stop the cooking process: from below and from above. To stop the cooking of caramel from below, you can set the bottom of the pan in ice water to cool off the pan. However, it will stop cooking much faster if you cool from above, which means adding another ingredient, such as room temperature cream or water. For caramel syrup, you would add water. For caramel sauce you would add various ratios of cream and butter or orange juice, liquor, cider or other flavored liquid. You can expect the mixture to expand and sputter quite a bit for about a minute, so caution is in order. Wear an oven mitt or rubber glove if you’re worried about getting burned from the caramel or from the steam. The other important thing to remember about caramel is never turn your back on caramel once it begins to show the slightest hint of color. For better control, I like to let it get to a medium amber or honey color and when it starts to smoke, I take it off the heat. At this point, the temperature of the caramel is so high that it will continue to cook, darken and smoke. When it looks like it’s reached the right color after about another minute or so, I add the next ingredient to stop the cooking.

• If you’re adding an ingredient to stop the cooking, make sure the pan is big enough to contain the expansion and sputtering.

• Ingredients added to stop the cooking should be at room temperature to avoid seizing the caramel.

• If you're adding cream, you can steep with spices for additional flavor. Vanilla or liquor also add flavor and should be added last, always off the heat.

• Salting – I think salt is an important ingredient in good caramel. Add to taste when the caramel has cooled.

• Always remember that you are cooking the sugar to a very, very high temperature. Caramel burns are quite painful because the cooked sugar will stick to your skin. Always use an abundance of caution.

• Caramel syrups are handy to have on hand for flavoring ice cream, sauces, custards and lots of other dessert elements. The sugar to water ratio is 1 to 1. You cook the sugar with just enough water to moisten and then add the rest when you want to stop the cooking.

• Storing - Refrigerate and keep caramel sauce for about 3 weeks. Caramel syrup will keep for quite a long time.

To make Banana Caramel for this recipe, some very ripe bananas are pureed and used to stop the cooking of the caramel. The mixture bubbles up and sputters vigorously but smoothes out nicely. If you’re a fan of bananas, you’ll enjoy this combination. Since the Banana Caramel Mousse is quite rich, I pair it with a plain Yogurt Mousse. They complement and balance each other quite well.



Bench notes:
- To prevent clumping when blooming gelatin, always sprinkle it slowly into cold water rather then pouring cold water on the powder. I prefer sheet gelatin, which comes in 2 strengths (silver and bronze), but I recognize that most home cooks use powdered.
- Be sure your bananas are quite ripe. The skins should have plenty of brown spots and the bananas should be quite soft with a strong scent of ripeness.
- The chocolate shavings really add to the flavor, so don’t skip this garnish.
- If you enjoy mousse, be sure to try Herme’s Chocolate Mousse, a supremely amazing dessert.


Yogurt & Banana Caramel Mousse
Makes 6 servings

Yogurt Mousse

2 C (16 oz) plain Greek yogurt
1/2 C sugar
1 t lemon juice, to taste
1 1/2 t gelatin
1 C heavy cream

Banana Caramel Mousse

2 very ripe bananas
1 C sugar
1/2 C water
1 T butter
1/2 t vanilla
pinch of salt
3/4 t gelatin
3/4 C heavy cream

bittersweet chocolate shavings for garnish

For the yogurt mousse, whisk together the yogurt and sugar. Add the lemon juice.
Bloom the gelatin in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of cold water.
Whip the heavy cream just to a very soft peak.
Liquefy the gelatin by placing the bottom of the bowl in a pan of simmering water.
Add the gelatin to the yogurt mixture and blend thoroughly.
Fold in the whipped cream.
Pour the Yogurt Mousse into a serving dish or 6 individual parfait glasses.
Chill for about 1 1/2 hours or until set.

To make the banana caramel, puree the 2 ripe bananas until they are the consistency of a smooth pancake batter. Pour into a bowl and set near the stove.

Bloom the gelatin in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of cold water.

Whip the heavy cream just to a very soft peak and keep in the refrigerator.

Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a saucepan. Continue boiling until the sugar starts to turn a medium amber color. Pull off the heat and let it continue to darken a bit more. Once it reaches a medium dark caramel, carefully pour in the pureed bananas. Stir with a long handled utensil like a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined. If there are any clumps of caramel, return to low heat until the clumps are melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from heat and add butter, vanilla and salt to taste.

Liquefy the gelatin by placing the bottom of the bowl in a pan of simmering water.

Add gelatin to banana caramel and let sit for a few minutes to begin to firm up just a bit, stirring occasionally.

Fold whipped cream gently into caramel-gelatin mixture until streaks disappear. Pour over Yogurt Mousse and chill for a couple of hours until set. To serve, garnish with chocolate shavings.

Pear Pots de Crème

With all the rain and sleet and snow in our midst, we might just be in need of some quintessential comfort food. If you enjoy custard and fruit, I combine them here in a way that is so pure in flavor and luscious in texture that I think you will find this completely irresistible.

Pot de crème is usually a looser custard than crème brulée. The name refers both to the dessert and to the elaborate lidded porcelain cups in which they are baked, originating all the way back to the 18th century. Nowadays, ramekins serve the same purpose.

For this version, I first poach pears in an unfussy vanilla syrup to a very tender melt-in-your mouth texture. Each pear half is placed in a plain vanilla custard base that is baked to crazy creamy perfection. The combination of tender slightly sweet fruit and freshly baked sumptuous custard is the height of what a warm wintry dessert should be.

This is definitely not rocket science. All that’s missing is a crackling fire and a good book. But no need to wait for a dreary day. Pear Pots de Crème really deliver come rain or come shine.


Bench notes:
- Whenever you are whisking together egg yolks and sugar, be sure you use them within a very few minutes. Letting them sit for more than a few minutes will “burn” the yolks and you'll wind up with a hardened clump of eggy protein.
- I used some very nice D’Anjou pears and they were perfect.
- Figuring out when custard is done takes some practice. With this recipe, the edges will look firm but the center around the pear half will be fairly jiggly. The 35 – 45 minute range is given because all ovens are different and the temperature of the water bath affects the baking time. So keep checking after about 30 minutes, gently jiggling a ramekin to get a sense of how it's coming along. I don’t cover the custards with foil here because I think that makes it easier to overbake them.
- I like the super creamy melt-in-your-mouth texture of both fruit and custard, so I think this is best when served fairly warm, which means the custard is pretty loose. If you’d like a custard that is more set, refrigerate for a few hours and it will thicken up. Bring to room temperature to serve.



Pear Pots de Crème
Serves 4

2 ripe but firm D'Anjou pears
2 1/2 C water
1 C sugar
1 t fresh lemon juice
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeded

Bring the sugar, water, lemon juice and vanilla bean to a low simmer. Peel, slice in half and core the pears, placing in the poaching liquid as you go. Simmer for about 10 - 15 minutes (depending on ripeness), turning occasionally, until you can easily insert a knife into a pear without any resistance. Remove pears, drain on a piece of paper towel and pat dry. The poaching liquid can be discarded or reserved for another use.

Once the pears are completely drained, slice a very thin piece off the rounded side of the pear so it will lie flat and place one half in each of four ramekins.

1 1/3 C heavy cream
2/3 C whole milk
4 egg yolks
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
1 t vanilla extract or 1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Bring the cream, milk and vanilla bean to a slow simmer. Steep for about 20 minutes. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until completely blended and the mixture is a pale yellow. Remove the vanilla bean and slowly add about 1/2 C of the warm cream and whisk vigorously. Slowly add the remaining cream and a pinch of salt and whisk until the mixture is thoroughly blended. If you are not using a vanilla bean, add the vanilla extract.

Pour the custard carefully into the 4 ramekins, avoiding the top of the pear. Place the ramekins in a roasting pan.

Bring a pot of water to a simmer. Place the ramekins and roasting pan in the oven and slowly pour the hot water into the roasting pan until it reaches about half way up the side of the ramekins.

Bake for about 35 – 45 minutes or until the edges are firm but the center is still fairly jiggly. Remove from the water and let cool slightly. Serve warm if you prefer a loose custard. Refrigerate for a few hours if you prefer a firm custard. Bring to room temperature and serve.

Tangerine Cranberry Sherbet

OK, it’s time for some color and spark! And along with that, a good measure of tartness along with the sweet.

Sometimes I get an ingredient in my head and I just have to do something with it. This is one of those times when I really couldn't resist the goodness of tangerines. Winter is the best time for gorgeous citrus fruit and tangerines in particular are delicious and juicy and plentiful right now. This bright sherbet brings the best of the season forward in a tantalizing mix of cool and tangy refreshment.

To my amazing family, wonderful friends, incredible blog buddies and all my fabulous readers, thank you so much for such a grand year full of inspiration and prosperity. It's been a great pleasure discovering all your beautiful blogs. Here's to another very exciting year full of optimism, hope, love and lots and lots of delicious little morsels. Happy New Year!

Bench notes:
- If you don’t have access to tangerines, substitute fresh orange juice.
- Sorbets and sherbets take a bit longer to churn in your ice cream machine. I churned this for about 20 minutes. It will still be soft and slushy but will firm up in your freezer.
- To preserve the bright color contrast, it’s best to layer the sherbet with the cranberry mixture. If you try to fold it in, the sherbet will turn a bright pink.
- Although you may be tempted, lowering the sugar in either component will result in an icy sherbet and icy cranberries. The lemon juice helps to balance the sweetness.
- I’ve also tried brown sugar in the cranberry compote for a more distinct flavor.



Tangerine Cranberry Sherbet

3/4 C sugar
zest of 1 large orange
2 C tangerine juice
1 T lemon juice
pinch salt
1 1/4 C whole milk
1/2 t vanilla

Cranberry Compote

1/4 C + 2 T sugar
1/4 C + 2 T water
1 t orange zest
2 t lemon juice
1 C fresh cranberries

To make the sherbet, combine the sugar and orange zest in a food processor and pulse until the sugar is aromatic and moist. Add the tangerine juice, lemon juice and salt and process until sugar is dissolved. Pour into a clean container. Whisk in the milk and vanilla. Cover and place in the refrigerator until thoroughly chilled.

Place all the ingredients for the Cranberry Compote in a saucepan and stir over medium low heat for about 10 minutes until the cranberries have softened and the mixture is thickened. Pour into a clean container, cover and place in the refrigerator to chill. The compote will thicken more as it cools.

Freeze the sherbet according to your machine’s instructions. It will be soft and slushy but will firm up in the freezer.

Pour about a third of the sherbet into a clean container. Dot the surface with the cranberry mixture. Pour another third of the sherbet on top. Add another layer of cranberries and then finish with the last of the sherbet. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface, cover and place in your freezer until firm.

Membrillo

In the wonderful realm of fruit and cheese combinations, it's back to the basics. It doesn’t get any more fundamental than pairing the wonders of Membrillo and Manchego from Spain.

Membrillo is a sweet paste made from cooking and caramelizing fresh quince. There is so much natural pectin in quince that it forms a thick paste when it is combined with sugar and cooked slowly over low heat. Membrillo takes a bit of time to prepare, but it keeps well for quite a long time. It also makes a great gift for your cheese loving friends.

Manchego is probably the most famous cheese from Spain and readily available just about anywhere. It’s made from sheep’s milk and has a firm, crumbly texture and an ivory color with a flavor that is piquant, buttery, salty and nutty. It’s made on the plain of La Mancha, sharing territory with our fictional Don Quixote. It’s sold at various stages of aging: fresh, known as Manchego fresco; moderately aged, known as Manchego curado; and Manchego viejo, aged up to a year. The rind always bears the characteristic basket weave pattern.

In some regions, the combination of Manchego cheese and Membrillo paste is known as Romeo and Juliet. It’s a wonderful exercise for the imagination to entertain the origin of this application with each fabulous bite. In this case, I’ve added a pinch of sel gris and chili powder to pique the flavors and take this storied couple out of Shakespeare’s quaint countryside and into the spicy mystery of Iberia.



Bench notes:
- Membrillo also goes very well with lots and lots of other cheese, such as chèvre, Garrotxa or Parmigiano-Reggiano.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into them. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- If you don’t have a scale, you can use volume measurements to roughly determine the right amount of sugar.
- If you love quince, you might also enjoy Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince or Quince Pound Cake.


Membrillo

4 – 5 fresh quince
juice of 1 1/2 lemons
equal weight or volume of sugar to pureed quince
salt to taste

To poach the quince, put enough water to cover the quince in a large pot and add the juice of one lemon. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon water to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and lemon water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the quince are tender and easily pierced with a fork, about a half hour or so. Drain completely and cool a bit, then puree the cooked quince in a food processor.

Prepare an 8” square pan with enough parchment for a short overhang on two sides.

Weigh the quince puree and add nearly the same amount of sugar. I had 780 grams of puree and added 700 grams of sugar. Add the juice a half lemon and a pinch of salt and stir the mixture to combine.

Cook the quince puree over medium low heat, stirring the whole pot routinely to prevent scorching. The mixture will bubble and thicken and caramelize, becoming thicker as the steam evaporates and darker as the mixture reduces and the flavor intensifies. Cook for about an hour or so, until you have a very deep bronzy orange color. Take off the heat and taste for additional salt.

Pour the quince paste into the prepared pan and let cool and set up. Membrillo can be stored for quite a long time. I wrap mine in parchment, then tightly in foil and keep in the refrigerator. Serve with your favorite cheese, Serrano ham, toasted nuts and a nice Cava or some delicious Albariño or Rioja.

Panna Cotta and Grape Gelée

I really hate the feeling of walking into the market and seeing that all my favorite fruits have vanished into retirement for the season. My heart sank yesterday as I rushed around the corner to my organic market only to realize that figs are beginning to slip away. And no more nectarines. Sigh. But there are lovely bunches of grapes reclining everywhere!

I love good grapes, especially the Bronx grapes we get here in August. And who can resist the irresistible mustiness of Concord grapes? So here I use grapes in service to a molded dessert by topping a Panna Cotta with an easy and good Grape Gelée.

The recipe has to be staged a bit, but other than that, it’s very easy to do. I first got the idea from a recipe I saw in Gourmet a few years ago. And speaking of Gourmet, I was pretty shocked to hear that it will be no more. Although it has been a flagship for good writers and interesting food journeys for nearly 70 years, Condé Nast has decided to fold it. It was a uniquely American publication that defined the culinary landscape in new ways over the decades, so it is sad to see its passing. But sad as it is, we can only look forward to a future of continued fervor online for the wonderful culture of food and the incredible pleasure it brings to all of us.


Bench notes:
- This would be good to try with sliced plums, fresh figs, cherries or blueberries.
- If you don’t have ramekins, you can just set these up in some glasses as a parfait.
- I used four 4 1/2” ramekins. You can probably get 5 or 6 servings if you use 3 1/4” ramekins.


Panna Cotta and Grape Gelée
based on a recipe from Gourmet Magazine
4 servings

Gelée

vegetable oil for greasing ramekins
1 C 100% Concord grape juice
1 1/4 t unflavored gelatin
2 t fresh lemon juice
1 T port (optional)
1 C seedless red grapes, sliced in half

Lightly oil four 4 1/2” ramekins.

Sprinkle gelatin over 2 T grape juice in a small dish and let stand a couple of minutes to soften. Set the bottom of the dish in simmering water to melt the gelatin. Add to remaining grape juice and lemon juice (and port, if using) and combine thoroughly. Divide grape gelatin among the ramekins. Line the bottom of each ramekin with the sliced grapes. Place ramekins in the freezer for about 45 minutes or until set.

Panna Cotta

2 C plain yogurt
3/4 t vanilla
1 t fresh lemon juice
1 3/4 t unflavored gelatin
2 T water
1 C heavy cream
1/2 C packed brown sugar
pinch of salt

A few minutes before the gelée is ready, whisk together yogurt, vanilla and lemon juice until smooth. Set aside.

Place 2 tablespoons of water in a small dish. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water. Let sit for a few minutes to bloom. Bring the heavy cream and brown sugar to a slow simmer over moderately low heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Set the bottom of the dish of bloomed gelatin in a pan of simmering water to melt, then whisk into cream mixture. Add the cream and pinch of salt to the yogurt mixture and whisk until thoroughly combined. Pour over set gelée and chill in the refrigerator overnight, or several hours until firm.

To unmold, run a clean very thin sharp knife or small metal spatula along the edge of the ramekins. Then one at a time, dip the bottom of the ramekins in a small bowl of very hot water for 6 – 10 seconds, or long enough to feel some warmth on the bottom of the ramekin but not too long to begin melting the gelatin. Place a plate over each ramekin and invert panna cotta. Gently lift off ramekins. Serve at room temperature.

Raspberries with Sabayon and Hibiscus Granita

I seem to have a lot of beautiful fresh raspberries on my hands at the moment. They’re bright and juicy, so I thought I would leave them in their natural state and surround them in luxury. Sabayon always adds a level of lusciousness to any fruit and I thought a Hibiscus Granita would contribute another interesting layer of lovely earthy tartness. The mesmerizing textures of fresh raspberries, creamy sabayon and cool granita make this a fun and refreshing adventure. As the granita melts into the sabayon, it makes a delicious sauce that I’m finding irresistible. If you haven't discovered the wonder of hibiscus tea, start brewing!

Bench notes:
- Use your favorite hibiscus tea or Flor de Jamaica, which you can pick up at health food stores or Mexican grocers. Make the tea quite strong.
- For the sabayon, I recommend a good quality Muscat, Semillon, Viognier, Monbazillac or a Sauvignon Blanc. You can make the sabayon and chill overnight. Fold in the whipped cream just before serving.
- This would probably be good with any berry. And if you’d rather not make a sabayon, you might try this with a bit of sweetened whipped cream.
- For another delicious take on fruit and sabayon, try Oranges with Rosemary Sabayon.


Raspberries with Hibiscus Granita and Sabayon
Serves 4

Hibiscus Granita

2 C strong hibiscus tea
1/4 C sugar

Brew the hibiscus tea until it is quite strong. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Cool and place in the freezer. When the mixture has solidified, take a fork and scrape it across the surface to create slushy ice crystals. Return to freezer.

Sabayon

4 egg yolks
1/4 C sugar
1/2 C Muscat or other fruity white wine
1/2 C heavy cream, chilled

2 C fresh raspberries

Whisk egg yolks, sugar and wine in a stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure that the bowl is not touching the water. Check periodically to see that the water is not boiling. Whisk constantly for 4 to 5 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl. Cook until the mixture is thickened and expanded in volume. If you have a thermometer, you’re shooting for about 160 degrees. Remove from heat and continue whisking for a bit. Set aside to cool.

Whip the heavy cream just until soft peaks form. Fold gently into cooled sabayon.

To serve, place a small pile of raspberries in a dessert glass or bowl. Top with sabayon and a few more raspberries. Garnish with granita. Serve immediately.

Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince

I always look forward to quince season. There’s something about the process of watching this oddly shaped and textured fruit transform into the most delectable and uniquely flavored rosy compote that is so interesting and enjoyable. Whether it's poached fruit, jam or membrillo, quince arrives just at the time we need it as a lot of the stone fruit of summer quietly escapes our grasp for another year.

I was just gifted with a bounty of fresh pineapple quince. An old friend introduced me to a new friend who has a tree in his back yard. It seems unusually early in the season but I’m more than thrilled. The aroma is transformative and lingers for days on end.

Cheese flan is somewhere along the spectrum of custard and cheesecake. It’s found in Latin culture but is usually prepared using cream cheese and evaporated milk. For this preparation, I decided to use some goat cheese to add a layer of complexity that I thought would go well with the poached quince. For the liquid I use reduced ratios of wet ingredients and heavy cream and some Muscat wine. The result is a kind of dense but creamy custard that really delivers an incredible pop of flavor. The light caramel complements the quince and presents a nice counterpoint for the goat cheese.

The quince takes some time to peel and poach, but the reward is tremendous. The flan is very easy and quick to prepare and bakes in 25 – 30 minutes. The flavors of both the flan and the fruit ripen overnight. If you do this in two steps, it will seem like no work at all. What you will have is a great celebration of this beautiful autumn.


Bench notes:
- As always, be very careful when working with caramel. Caramel burns really hurt, so always protect your hands and arms. As it reaches the right color, pour it into the ramekins and use a mitt or towel to carefully swirl just for a moment. The caramel does not have to go up the sides of the ramekin more than a little bit.
- Raw quince are quite hard, so be careful when peeling and cutting into quince. Use a very sharp chef’s knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find it easier to core if they are first cut in quarters.
- I keep the poaching liquid for the quince very simple so the true flavor comes forward without competing with the flan and the caramel. The syrup left over from the quince can be used to flavor drinks or drizzle over ice cream. You can also use it as a base to make sorbet or ice cream.
- If you can’t find an inexpensive Sauternes or Muscat, use a Monbazillac or Viognier or other favorite white wine that has a very slight sweet edge.
- Don't be tempted to bake it much longer than the recommended time. They will firm up as they cool. The baked flans rest overnight in the refrigerator to better create the liquid caramel sauce. The sugar has a chance to liquefy and they are easier to unmold. Once they are unmolded, let the flans sit for awhile until they can be served at room temperature. I’ve also eaten them a couple of days later straight out of the refrigerator. They are completely different – very dense with a mellow cheesy flavor. Also really delicious but in a different way!
- I’ve also made this flan base and steeped it overnight with a pinch of rosemary. The next day, I strain it out, bake and serve with quince, fresh fig or pear compote. It would also be delicious with an apple sauté.


Goat Cheese Flan with Poached Quince
Makes 4 servings using 3 1/4” diameter ramekins

3/4 C sugar
1/4 C water

4 oz goat cheese
4 oz cream cheese
1/3 C sugar
pinch salt
1/3 C cream
1/4 C white wine, such as Beaumes de Venise Muscat, Sauternes, Viognier or Monbazillac
2 eggs

Prepare caramel by placing sugar and water over medium high heat. If the sugar spatters up the sides of the pan, brush down the sides of the pot with a brush dipped in water. Cook the caramel until it is a medium amber. Take off the heat and wait a few seconds until it darkens a bit more on its own. Pour enough into the ramekins to coat the bottom and swirl just a bit up the sides.

In a food processor, blend goat cheese, cream cheese, sugar, salt, cream, wine and for just a minute or so. Pulse just until thoroughly blended. Pour into prepared ramekins.

Bake in water bath @ 325 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool and chill overnight.

To unmold, set the ramekins in about an inch of water that has been simmered and taken off the heat. Leave them there for about a minute. Remove them and run a very thin knife blade or small offset spatula around the rim. Invert onto a serving plate and give it a good tap. It should slip right out along with the liquefied caramel sauce. Serve at room temperature with poached quince.

Poached Quince

2 – 3 quince
2 C water
3/4 C sugar
juice of 1 lemon

Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Take off heat and add the lemon juice. As you peel and core each quince, cut them into quarters and place them in the lemon syrup to keep the oxidation at a minimum. Bring the quince and syrup to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the quince are tender and have turned a deep pinkish orange. Cool and transfer to a clean airtight container and chill.

Peach Semifreddo

Peaches are so superb right now it’s hard to resist buying them in great quantity. I found some amazing peaches at our local farmer’s market that were brightly blushing, fabulously fragrant and sensationally sweet. Nothing compares to a ripe and juicy peach full of the unmistakable flavor of summer. Let’s jump at the chance to enjoy the last of this season’s goodness before they make their exit for another year.

I set out to make something very simple and light that would showcase their luscious fresh flavor. This is a soft and subtle celebration of peaches, perfectly cool and creamy after a delicious meal, a gentle and sweet reminder of the good grace of this magnificent fruit.

Bench notes:
- The peaches for this dessert must be at peak ripeness or you won’t have the desired flavor. Find the best peaches you can get your hands on! Adjust the sugar in the recipe according to the sweetness of your peaches.
- I like this on its own, but you can serve it with berries, almond cookies or a very light sprinkle of almond praliné.


Peach Semifreddo
Serves 6 to 8

3 large or 4 medium fresh ripe peaches
Juice of one lemon
1/3 cup + 2 T sugar, divided
3 egg whites
1 C heavy cream, chilled
1 t kirsch or 1/4 t almond extract

Line an 8” x 4” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang on each 8” side. You can also place a strip of parchment paper on top of the plastic to help form smoother sides.

Coarsely chop the peaches and place in a food processor with the lemon juice and 1/3 cup of the sugar. Process until you have a smooth puree. Press the puree through a sieve to remove bits of skin. Taste for a balance of sugar.

Beat egg whites until they are opaque and hold soft peaks. Add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar just a little bit at a time, increasing speed to high. Beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.

Whip chilled cream with kirsch or almond extract just until it holds soft peaks.

Gently fold meringue into whipped cream, then fold into the peach puree. Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Smooth the top until it’s level and fold the ends of the parchment paper and plastic wrap over to cover. Place in your freezer until firm, about 8 hours or overnight.

Run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the pan to loosen the semifreddo. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert. Carefully pull off the pan and its lining.

Slice with a sharp knife and serve immediately.

Pistachio Semifreddo

If you ever find yourself wishing for a creamy cool dessert but don’t want to haul out the ice cream maker or fuss with making a crème anglaise, this semifreddo is your dream dessert. It’s like a very light cold mousse and comes together so quickly you almost wonder how it could taste so incredibly good.

Semifreddo is the Italian term for "half cold" and is often used as the description for many kinds of partially frozen desserts. Some versions require an Italian meringue made with hot syrup and/or an egg yolk-sugar base, but this Pistachio Semifreddo just consists of pistachios, meringue and whipped cream folded together with a splash of almond extract to add just the right level of robust nutty flavor. It's impossibly simple and supremely delicious. Although certainly worthy of a special occasion, don’t bother to wait too long to enjoy this wondrous dessert.


Bench notes:
- This is a half recipe. You can double and pour into a 2 quart bowl and use a scoop to serve.
- The recipe calls for salted pistachios. If you can’t find them, be sure to add a tiny pinch of salt to the recipe.
- When lining the loaf pan, place a strip of parchment on top of the plastic to create a smooth surface. If you don’t have parchment, once you've unmolded it, you can use a warm knife or metal spatula to smooth the creases.
- I’ve chosen to serve it with some cherry compote and figs but it would be equally delicious with an element of bittersweet chocolate, whether it be a simple chocolate wafer, a light drizzle of chocolate sauce or a thin layer of cookie crumbs or cake on the bottom or top of the mold.
- Whip the cream just until soft peaks form. This means the cream should have a soft lilt that is very droopy and does not hold its shape. If you go too far, the mixture will be grainy. The meringue should be beaten to a stiff peak, which means it should stand up when peaked without falling over.
- As always, exercise caution when serving raw egg whites.


Pistachio Semifreddo
adapted from Gourmet magazine
makes about 4 - 6 servings

3/4 C shelled salted pistachios (about 3 1/4 oz) + extra if you want to garnish
1/2 C sugar, divided
3 large egg whites @ room temperature
1 C heavy cream, chilled
1/8 teaspoon almond extract

Line an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang on each side. You can also place a strip of parchment paper on top of the plastic to help form smoother sides.

Grind 1/2 cup pistachios with 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar in a food processor until very finely ground. Pour into a bowl. Coarsely chop the remaining 1/4 cup pistachios and combine with the finely ground mix.

Beat egg whites until they are opaque and hold soft peaks. Add remaining 3 tablespoons sugar just a little bit at a time, increasing speed to high. Beat until meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks.

Whip chilled cream with almond extract until it just holds soft peaks.

Gently fold meringue into whipped cream. Fold in nut mixture. Using a rubber spatula, pour into an 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pan. Smooth the top until it’s level. Place in your freezer until firm, about 8 hours.

Run a thin knife or small metal spatula around the edges of the pan to loosen. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and invert. Carefully pull off the plastic wrap and parchment if you used it. Garnish with chopped pistachio.

Slice with a sharp knife and serve immediately.

Peach Soup with Lemongrass Sorbet

I love the refreshing taste of dessert soups in the spring and summer. The juicy freshness of peaches are especially well-suited for this sort of treatment. How many times have we stood over the kitchen sink as we bite into a super ripe peach? Here’s a way to enjoy the whole thing in a bowl. Add a scoop of aromatic Lemongrass Sorbet for an added note of citrus and you're set.

This would make a great ending to a grilled dinner or an elegant component of a champagne brunch. With very little effort, you can put this together and savor peaches in all their chilled luscious ripeness. Add a scoop of light lemongrass sorbet and you have an unusual and refreshing dessert - light, cool and crisp.


Bench notes:
- The peaches need to be quite fragrant and ripe for optimum flavor.
- If the skins do not peel off easily, blanch them in simmering water for just a few seconds and then place them in ice water. Pat them dry. The peel should slide off easily.
- The amount of simple syrup and lemon juice you use for the Peach Soup will depend on the sweetness of your peaches. Keep tasting until you have the right balance.
- The blueberries are a terrific addition, so do include them as a garnish.
- For the Lemongrass Sorbet, I’ve added the vodka for a smoother texture and to keep it from becoming too icy. It does not affect the flavor.
- You can make the sorbet a couple of days ahead.
- Sorbet sometimes needs to churn a bit longer than a custard base ice cream in order to develop the right texture.



Peach Soup with Lemongrass Sorbet
Serves 4

Peach Soup

5 large ripe peaches
1 1/4 C fresh orange juice
1/2 C - 3/4 C simple syrup, to taste
1 T – 1 1/2 T fresh lemon juice, to taste
1 pint of blueberries

Lemongrass Sorbet

2 C water
1/2 C sugar
2 large stalks lemongrass
8 oz plain yogurt
2 t lemon juice
1 T vodka

For the sorbet, slice the lemongrass into 1/4” pieces. Bring the water and sugar to a boil and add lemongrass. Take off the heat, cover and let steep for about an hour. Strain into a clean bowl. Whisk in the yogurt and lemon juice. Chill overnight.

Add the vodka and churn in your ice cream maker until the mixture is uniformly smooth. Place in a clean airtight container and put in the freezer to firm up.

To make simple syrup for the Peach Soup, combine 3/4 cup of water and 3/4 cup of sugar and boil until completely dissolved. Cool.

Peel four of the peaches and chop them into medium pieces (reserve one peach for garnish). Place the chopped peaches in a food processor with the orange juice and puree. Add some of the simple syrup and blend. Taste and keep adding simple syrup until you have the desired sweetness. Do the same with the lemon juice until the mixture tastes bright and balanced. Put in an airtight container and chill.

When ready to serve, dice the remaining peach into small bite-size pieces and set in a bowl with a spritz of lemon juice to avoid browning. Place a scoop of Lemongrass Sorbet in each of 4 flat soup bowls. Pour the soup into the bowl and garnish with diced peaches and blueberries. Serve immediately.

Lemon Sabayon with Grapefruit

For me, the call of spring usually begins with the bright spunk of lemon. The comfort of its color, the splash of its tartness and the delicious way it has of reminding us of the purity of nature always sets the stage beautifully for the coming season. As we await the arrival of the new bounty of exquisite fruit in all its amazing flavor and color, it’s always a sure bet to pave the way with a lemon dessert.

This is an easy sabayon that tastes like an airy cloud of lemon curd. It pairs beautifully with fresh ruby red grapefruit. Each element has tart-sweet highlights and together they provide a supremely light and delicate end to any meal. Fun, fast and fresh.


Bench notes:
- This sabayon is really delicious and would pair well with many other fruits, especially raspberries and strawberries.
- Sabayon can also be served cold. Place a piece of plastic wrap on the surface and chill.


Lemon Sabayon with Grapefruit
adapted from Gourmet, November 2008
Serves 4

3 ruby red grapefruits
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
3/4 C sugar
1/2 C fresh lemon juice
2 T cold butter, cut in small pieces

Cut peel and white pith from the grapefruits with a sharp knife. Cut segments free from membranes and divide the fruit among 4 bowls.

Whisk together eggs, yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl. Set bowl over a bain marie and whisk until foamy, about 2 minutes. Add a third of the lemon juice and whisk about 1 minute. Add half of the remaining lemon juice and whisk another minute. Add the remaining lemon juice and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened, about 5 or 6 minutes. Remove from heat and add the butter, whisking slowly until incorporated. Cool slightly. Spoon warm sabayon over grapefruit segments.

Blood Oranges Caramel

Blood oranges possess a rare beauty that almost defies our senses. Ranging in color from vermilion to scarlet to deep crimson and more unusual in flavor than other citrus, blood oranges are among the best of the current crop of fresh fruit.

Blood oranges likely originated in the 19th century in Sicily and found their way to America sometime in the 1930's via the travels of immigrants from Italy and Spain. There are about three varieties but the Moro is the most commonly found in our regions. The exterior skin is often tinged with a dark red blush and the interior can sometimes be variegated. They are just stunning to slice into and the juice is deliciously bright. Having a blood orange will quench your every thirst.

Best enjoyed in their freshest simplicity, I decided to recline them in a bit of Blood Orange Caramel to echo another layer of relentless color that is riveting in its intensity and beauty. These jewels are definitely a supreme wonder of nature.



Bench notes:
- As with any citrus fruit, select the ones that are heavy and thin skinned. They will be the juiciest.
- As the sugar for the caramel begins to darken, gently swirl the pan if it starts to color in just a few spots. This will help to evenly distribute the darker sugar so it cooks uniformly.
- Always use caution when making caramel. Hold the pan away when adding the liquid to avoid any splatters from hitting your skin. Caramel burns really hurt!
- You can add a drop of good balsamic vinegar to the caramel for more complexity. Start with just a tiny bit and keep tasting until you have the right balance of tart and sweet, avoiding what I call “throat burn” that will linger if you add too much acidity.


Blood Oranges Caramel
Serves 4

6 blood oranges
1 C sugar
1/4 C water
1/2 C fresh blood orange juice

Juice the oranges until you have 1/2 C juice. Peel the remaining oranges with a sharp knife, making sure to cut away the pith, and slice.

Combine sugar and water in heavy small saucepan over medium heat. Boil without stirring until it reaches a medium-dark amber color, occasionally brushing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystallization. Take off the heat just as it’s reaching the right color and carefully add the orange juice. The mixture will bubble vigorously. Stir over low heat until smooth. Cool completely.

Divide the orange slices among four plates and spoon the caramel over each.

Pears in Honey Pine Nut Caramel with Artisanal Cheese

Between the hectic pace of entertaining for the holidays and the peak excitement of preparing for all the upcoming inauguration parties, it might be just the right moment for a simple and beautiful little fruit recipe that is both elegant and delicious without a lot of fuss or fret. Pears are so good and plentiful right now, I thought it would be fun to do a simple riff on a recipe from Deborah Madison, famed for her vegetarian cookbooks and her dedication to fresh local produce.

If you’ve ever wished you could combine your dessert and cheese course, I highly recommend this great example of the perfect blend of fruit, nuts and cheese. The fresh fruit is delicately simmered just until tender in a delicious honey butter sauce. The caramel adds a shimmer of lusciousness that will leave you in unmistakable bliss. The pine nuts bring a creamy richness and nutty textural element. Perfecto. So if you’d like a little respite from the party production line, this dessert is like a soft pillow landing.

I once worked for a cheesemonger and it was one of the most interesting and enriching experiences I’ve had in the culinary world. Learning in greater depth about the origin and variety of hundreds of artisan cheeses available from the far reaches of the globe proved to be a total thrill. Among the many pleasures are all the rustic but elegant ways artisan cheeses are aged and packaged. The various papers, cheesecloth, farm stamps and seals are such a rich reminder that these supreme cheeses are crafted by hand and packaged with the heritage of all the local traditions. The colors and smells and tastes run the full range of every nuance imaginable. And the process of deciding on the language to describe the complexity and uniqueness of each one, determining the delectable garnishes and accompaniments that would enhance the tasting and then selecting the soothing wine pairings is clearly never-ending. It's really just so much fun.

Take a few moments to prepare and savor this divine little dessert. You’ll be sure to find yourself thinking about who might be next on your list to share and delight in this simple and sigh-inducing luxury.


Bench notes:
- Use a delicious fresh goat cheese or any favorite cheese that will melt easily. Humboldt Fog is delicious, as is Alta la tur, Robiola Bosina, Cana de Cabra, Purple Haze, Cravanzina, Valdeon, Roquefort or any creamy blue. Make it fun!
- I’ve reduced the butter in the original recipe by 1 T and added a bit of acid to brighten the caramel and cut the richness of the butter. I recommend rice wine vinegar or lemon juice, adding to taste.
- I used 2 pears and found that there was a good portion of sauce, but 3 pears will work, too.
- This is also good with a fresh grind of pepper.



Pears in Honey and Pine Nut Caramel with Artisanal Cheese
adapted from Deborah Madison

2 oz (4 T) unsalted butter (I reduced it to 3 T)
3 firm but ripe Bosc pears (I used 2 pears)
3 1/2 T mild honey
4 oz artisanal cheese (such as Point Reyes Original Blue, Humboldt Fog, dry Monterey Jack, sheep's-milk ricotta, tangy soft fresh goat cheese, or other local cheese) @ room temperature
3 T pine nuts
Pinch of fine sea salt

1 t rice wine vinegar or lemon juice, to taste (my addition)

Peel pears and cut in half. Core them and rub with lemon juice.

Melt butter in a skillet over medium high heat until it just begins to brown. Add pear halves cut side down and drizzle with honey. Swirl the pan gently to blend the butter and honey. Reduce heat to medium low. Cover and cook pears until tender when pierced with a knife. Check every few minutes to baste the pears and to be sure that the caramel is not getting too dark. Add a bit of water if caramel sauce turns deep amber before pears are tender, about 12 minutes.

Transfer the pears, cut side up, to serving plates. Top the pear cavities with crumbled cheese. Return the caramel sauce to medium-high heat. Add the pine nuts and sprinkle lightly with salt to taste. Add vinegar or lemon juice to taste. Cook until sauce is brown and bubbling, about 2 minutes. Spoon sauce over pears and serve.

Roasted Pears with Bay Leaf Sabayon

One of autumn’s perfect treats is roasted pears. Delicious on their own, you can also fancify pears with a dessert sauce. Beautiful pears of every variety are coming into the markets and it’s time to enjoy their juicy goodness.

This time out I’ve paired some roasted bosc pears with a sabayon that has a tinge of herbal flavor. Fresh bay leaves have a smell and a taste that lend a mysterious spiciness to desserts. They add just a breath of autumn, enough to place this dish squarely in the realm of earthly simplicity.



Bench notes:
- Baking time for the pears will vary depending on how ripe the fruit is. The pears are done when they are easily pierced with a knife.
- Bosc pears are best for roasting. They hold their shape and roasting concentrates their flavor perfectly. I also tried Comice, widely considered to be the queen of pears, but they were not as flavorful. I think they're best enjoyed eaten fresh and unadorned.
- Use a wine that isn't too assertive, such as a mild Sauvignon Blanc or an aromatic Viognier.



Roasted Pears with Bay Leaf Sabayon
Serves 4

4 bosc pears
juice of 1 lemon
2 T sugar
3 T butter

4 egg yolks
1/4 C sugar
1/2 C Sauvignon Blanc
3 T bay leaf syrup (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Peel and core the pears. Cut into 1/4” slices and gently toss in lemon juice. Place in a baking dish and sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter. Put a couple of tablespoons of water in the bottom of the dish.

Bake pears for 25 to 30 minutes, basting and turning every 10 minutes to brown evenly. Add a bit of water to the baking dish as necessary. Cool roasted pears.

Whisk egg yolks, sugar, wine and bay leaf syrup in a stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure that the bowl is not touching the water. Check periodically to see that the water is not boiling. Whisk constantly for 4 to 5 minutes, including the bottom and sides of the bowl. Cook until the mixture is thickened and expanded in volume. If you have a thermometer, you’re shooting for about 160 degrees. Remove from heat and continue whisking for a bit. Set aside to cool.

Bay Leaf Syrup

1/2 C water
1/2 C sugar
8 fresh bay leaves

Chop bay leaves into 1/2” pieces.

Bring water and sugar to a boil. Turn down the heat and add chopped bay leaves. Simmer about a minute or so. Cover and remove from heat and let steep for 3 hours. Strain and store in the refrigerator in a clean, airtight container.